Winter riding and its perils - nearly binned it

[Batfink]

This is my first full winter of riding. Its certainly proving to keep the heart rate pumping despite the lower speeds

I have a fixed gear road bike with TT bars and currently 23mm Continental Gatorskins.
I have 5 miles of country roads to negotiate and today riding a long straight downhill I cycled a section of road with a large camber. I was on the tri bars doing a good 15 - 20 mph when the rear stepped out and I found myself completely sideways, probably about 80 degrees. Luckily the front wheel kept traction as my weight was over it and I got it pointing in the right direction only to hit the next bit of black ice and do it again. I aimed for the verge while slowing ready to throw myself in a bush but managed to come to a stop safely.

Now I'm going to have to ride this again tomorrow and I have concerns. I'm already nursing a few injuries due to being hit by a car so I really don't want more. That and the fact cycle clothing is bloody expensive to replace!

I was riding a good metre and a half from the edge of the road. I think I will have to explore cycling almost in the centre of the road. Should I get wider tyres for better traction?
Should I get tyres with a tread pattern? Would this help on frosty roads? There does not seem to be a soft compound dedicated for temperatures below freezing made by manufacturers. Lowish tyre pressures?

I see these pictures on the internet of people cycling in what I would deem worse conditions and I'm not totally sure how to do it right!

[-C-]

I binned it on my road bike a few weeks ago, first time ever!

On the way home in the dark, not raining, but had been so everything was wet. Gradual turn on a fast, flat bit of road, with a dodgy repair meaning a raised edge. Normally I wouldn't ride that far out but it was horrible, got a wobble on off it, but still needed to turn onto the cycle path which had a ever so slightly raised kerb. I didn't hit it square on, and the front end went & I was down before I even realised it.

It hurt a surprising amount, not to mention epic road rash. In fact my knee still hurts now. It was the straw that broke the camels back on winter commuting (~26km each way). Bike is now strapped to the turbo trainer instead

[anonymous-user]

Batfink said:

I have a fixed gear road bike with TT bars and currently 23mm Continental Gatorskins.

Batfink said:

I see these pictures on the internet of people cycling in what I would deem worse conditions and I'm not totally sure how to do it right!

I think there is a link between the first quote and the second...

seriously though, the riding position is most likely to be afactor, al lthat weight shifted forwards and minimal time to react when on the tri bars.

[AndyDRZ]

Sorry for being rude but why do you need to be on skinny tyres and tribars for 15mph and a 5 mile commute.

I am not very fit, but I can average 15mph over my 10 mile commute on my hardrock with knobblies on. Surely something like that is more suitable for the icy conditions (Maybe even those tyres with little tungsten spikes in them if it is that cold where you live)

[S10GTA]

Bin the tri bars for a start! Madness!

[Batfink]

AndyDRZ said:

Sorry for being rude but why do you need to be on skinny tyres and tribars for 15mph and a 5 mile commute.

I am not very fit, but I can average 15mph over my 10 mile commute on my hardrock with knobblies on. Surely something like that is more suitable for the icy conditions (Maybe even those tyres with little tungsten spikes in them if it is that cold where you live)

You might be going the same speed in this case but I can guarantee I am using significantly less effort.
The tri-bars are bloody brilliant and make a massive difference to aero drag.

So is the consensus that my issue is simply weight distribution down the frosty road sections?

[donfisher]

Batfink said:

The tri-bars are bloody brilliant and make a massive difference to aero drag.

Yes, but for 5 miles it's probably not really making that much difference. The downside seems to be that they're removing some of the control you have over the bike in difficult conditions.

[anonymous-user]

Batfink said:

You might be going the same speed in this case but I can guarantee I am using significantly less effort.
The tri-bars are bloody brilliant and make a massive difference to aero drag.

So is the consensus that my issue is simply weight distribution down the frosty road sections?

Its not just the weight distribution but the steering input when on tri bars in slippery conditions, it would be like driving on ice with a 1/4 size steering wheel?

[AndyDRZ]

Batfink said:

You might be going the same speed in this case but I can guarantee I am using significantly less effort.
The tri-bars are bloody brilliant and make a massive difference to aero drag.

I'm sure they do and if I was doing a 20mile each way commute I'd want them too. For 5 miles of icy roads I'd prefer my flatbar hardtail because it is much easier to cycle when you haven't just smashed your knee on the tarmac

Unless the 5 miles you mentioned previously is just part of the commute and you have many more miles to do after the country lanes?

[Batfink]

donfisher said:

Batfink said:

The tri-bars are bloody brilliant and make a massive difference to aero drag.

Yes, but for 5 miles it's probably not really making that much difference. The downside seems to be that they're removing some of the control you have over the bike in difficult conditions.

Well I notice a difference in wind drag simply from moving from the tribar position to the normal handlebar, especially in headwinds. You might not but its helped me ride my route faster (average)in more comfort, its also helped move my body position so when I am at max cadence i am more stable.
I'm not really interested in whether I can go physically peak at a faster speed by 1 or 2 mph but I have no way of monitoring that anyway. If I was really worrying about being the fastest cyclist on this route i'd probably have gears.

pablo said:

Its not just the weight distribution but the steering input when on tri bars in slippery conditions, it would be like driving on ice with a 1/4 size steering wheel?

Yes I'd agree the steering input is not as quick but it was good enough that I could regain control of the bike instinctively. Its certainly more nervous compared to a traditional handlebar and wont have the precision. What I want is to not have to control a slide in the first place. I was cycling in a straight line.
Can I setup the bike so it grips better in frosty conditions or are we simply saying I will have no issue riding on the normal bars for 500 yards where the road is an issue?
The road conditions caused the initial incident - not poor steering input

[ewenm]

You could reduce your tyre pressures so you have a bigger contact patch with the road, but it'll slow you down.

I'd remove the tri-bars and perhaps fit some fatter tyres.

[Batfink]

AndyDRZ said:

I'm sure they do and if I was doing a 20mile each way commute I'd want them too. For 5 miles of icy roads I'd prefer my flatbar hardtail because it is much easier to cycle when you haven't just smashed your knee on the tarmac

Unless the 5 miles you mentioned previously is just part of the commute and you have many more miles to do after the country lanes?

Its not just used for commuting but like i've said, its about effort not speed.

ewenm said:

You could reduce your tyre pressures so you have a bigger contact patch with the road, but it'll slow you down.

I'd remove the tri-bars and perhaps fit some fatter tyres.

I'm checking the tyre pressures for the ride home.
I'm thinking Continental gp4000S in 25mm as they use a softer compound than the Gatorskins. A good tyre?

Edited by Batfink on Tuesday 4th December 13:43

[Accelebrate]

Can you really not entertain cycling in a more upright/balanced position for a few miles through winter? Everyone has to make compromises at this time of year.

[ewenm]

Accelebrate said:

Can you really not entertain cycling in a more upright/balanced position for a few miles through winter? Everyone has to make compromises at this time of year.

Plus the extra effort is good, you'll be fitter and faster come the Spring

[shouldbworking]

You must be mental to be using tri bars in such conditions.

[IroningMan]

If you're really attached to the areobars then why not just sit up for the stretch that is prone to ice? Depending on how good your fixie skillz are you might also find the bike is more controllable with brakes and a freewheel.

[Batfink]

I use the normal handlebar position as well as the aerobars. Its not difficult to choose a riding position depending on where I am. I'm not exclusively using them nor am I arguing the need to use them in all situations.

People were questioning why I was using them at all. I've therefore clarified why.

Would sitting more upright have stopped my bike from slipping out when travelling in a straight line with no steering input? Theoretically this should be when the bike is most stable. Do people stop using drop handlebars in cold conditions?
Was riding position the main factor in why the rear wheel lost traction or poor tyre choice for sub zero temperatures? Am I using too thin a tyre giving poor lateral grip? Or maybe the fact that I simply cannot freewheel so force was being applied to the rear wheel when traction was low?

[Batfink]

IroningMan said:

If you're really attached to the areobars then why not just sit up for the stretch that is prone to ice? Depending on how good your fixie skillz are you might also find the bike is more controllable with brakes and a freewheel.

I have a brake! I'm no ninja

[anonymous-user]

Batfink said:

I use the normal handlebar position as well as the aerobars. Its not difficult to choose a riding position depending on where I am. I'm not exclusively using them nor am I arguing the need to use them in all situations.

People were questioning why I was using them at all. I've therefore clarified why.

Would sitting more upright have stopped my bike from slipping out when travelling in a straight line with no steering input? Theoretically this should be when the bike is most stable. Do people stop using drop handlebars in cold conditions?
Was riding position the main factor in why the rear wheel lost traction or poor tyre choice for sub zero temperatures? Am I using too thin a tyre giving poor lateral grip? Or maybe the fact that I simply cannot freewheel so force was being applied to the rear wheel when traction was low?

I cant explain this very well at all but i'll give it a go. IMHO its about weight distribution but not so much front and back but more "side to side".

I think the general point is thus, when you are on the tri bars you are placing all your weight around the centre of the bike and you will feel every wobble or slide.

The wider the handlebars, the more your weight is spread out and you make frequent, tiny steering inputs thus you can react quicker....

....the best way I can think of describing that is like trying to cross thin ice, you wouldnt do it on your feet but on your stomach to spread the weight across as a large an area as possible, on your feet might be quicker but all that pressure is applied to a much smaller area....

wow its dark in this rabbit hole....

[donfisher]

A tightrope walker with a balancing pole is another example, perhaps not a good one though.