Distributor noise, tapping noise, now not running!

[suffolkfox]

Background - The Project - TVR 350i with virtually new engine, approx 1994 Defender unit with new 3.9 cam & followers Cloyes timing gear, all ancillaries swapped off existing dead TVR (SD1) engine. Installed and running but not ticking over when cold. Investigation over weekend result swapped coolant temperature sensor, adjusted throttle plate to 2 thou and lowered tickover speed. All seemed OK again, but noticed how noisy the distributor was getting (whirring and slight tapping sound when first installed in new setup and now getting louder)

This morning will not keep running. Starts OK and revs up, then after about 15 seconds revs fall and the engine stalls, almost as if the ECU is shutting it down. Also the noise from the dizzy is very noticeable and the tap now sounds like a dead follower but too far forward.

Q's
Is it possible the dizzy is not correctly aligned with the drive (noises?)
Is the fact I have put an old (70,000 mile) dizzy on a new engine creating a problem?
As the followers are new is it likely that one could be faulty (only done 350 miles since build)?
Anything I should check based on the symptoms?

Frustration setting in, so may be off to the local specialist if unable to work it out. Cheers all
also posted in engines area

[350matt]

Its possible that the 'ticking' noise is either an incorrect rotor arm - hitting the posts inside the cap.
Or the inductive pickup underneath the plastic cover under the rotor arm is incorrectly adjusted and also hitting the toothed wheel.

Matt

[greenv8s]

Are you sure it isn't a fueling problem? If the ECU doesn't see the engine running signal for a few seconds it will power off the pump, the engine will idle for another few seconds before it leans out and dies, this could possibly be what you're seeing? Worth hot-wiring the pump just to eliminate it as a possibility.

[Boosted Ls1]

First I would check the cap clips are holding the cap correctly to the body. Then I'd check the dizzy is correctly bolted to the engine and pressed fully home into the timing housing thus engaging the shaft to the oil pump shaft. Then I'd remove the cap and check for damage in there. I'd next hold the dizzy shaft and turn it by hand. It should move a few degrees in one direction only. If there is play, it could be between the shaft gear and cam gear. After that I'd remove the dizzy and see if there is play at the pin which locates the drive gear to the dizzy. Hope this helps

[suffolkfox]

Thanks Boosted LS1, took the top off the dizzy to be confronted with disintegrated inner cap, bits of plastic in places they shouldn't be and damage to the central 'cog' with part of one tooth missing. There also seems to be more sideways movement in the drive than I would like, when compared with the spare I have. Trouble is the spare does not have the black block on the side, so must have come from something else (range rover/land rover?). Can I swap components between the two or do I need to get a new one? The spare has the numbers 41944B, 35DM8 & 2584 on it if this is relevant.

[Boosted Ls1]

Ok, there are several types of dizzy for the rv8, hall effect and variable reluctor. One type has 8 stars on the shaft the other has a white plastic disc with ferrite rods embedded into it. I guess yours will be the former. I used to find parts for those from Aldon Automotive at Birmingham, very helpful guys and way cheaper then a Rover dealer V8 developments may have a used dizzy or failing that look for a 4wd place.

[cruiser33]

It your want a suggestion nearer than Birmingham try www.thev8centre.com the guy is based in High Wycombe, he has excellent knowledge of parts and has a 4WD supplier.

[suffolkfox]

Actually spoke to Paul at www.v8tuner.co.uk who was very helpful and found me a second-hand dizzy. He is only 25 minutes from me in Wymondham, Norfolk so nice and local for the future, and specialises in V8's so just my sort of man (faq's are worth a read for some as well).
Thanks again all, hope the car is back on the road tomorrow (got the Mid-Essex meet to go to at the weekend)

[suffolkfox]

Hope this is the last question on this thread. Unpacked the new dizzy to discover it has the vacuum advance & ignition module on opposite side of the unit instead of next to each other. Both are marked as 35DLM8 units but the original is a 41971A whereas the new one is a 42529A (neither of which are quoted in the bible). Does anyone know if they are interchangeable or do they have different weights/springs/vacuum units. The external parts should fit around things without fouling, although it will place the ignition module closer to the face of the engine(heat?).
Ta