Bottom pulley bolt snapped.
Discussion
I was out on a track day at Lydden on Saturday, half way through my 3rd session I heard a loud bang which sounded like something falling off the car, I carried on gently but didn’t notice any change so carried on as normal, when I came in I found a big washer resting on the steering column, after looking around trying to figure out where it came from I realised the bottom pulley bolt had snapped in the crank, I had the car recovered home and have tried to get the bolt out by welding a nut on the end but this didn’t work as couldn’t get a good weld on it, I bought a Snap-on extractor which should be with me in the next few days so I’ll give that a go, anyone got any tips for getting these out?
Bolt snapped but the pulley stayed on the crank? Sounds like a lucky escape! Hopefully no peripheral damage and the nose of the crank is undamaged.
On using the extractor, I would soak the bolt in penetrating oil for as long as possible, and make damned sure I didn't snap the extractor in the crank. I think it would probably put the engine beyond economic repair.
On using the extractor, I would soak the bolt in penetrating oil for as long as possible, and make damned sure I didn't snap the extractor in the crank. I think it would probably put the engine beyond economic repair.

It doesn’t look like it’s damaged the crank, hopefully the bolt will come out, the idea of buying Snap-on was so it doesn’t snap off
One thing I noticed was when I took the cat out there was no precats as they were removed when I had it service a few years ago but they were supposed to put a cone in the manifold but there is nothing there, wondering if that could be causing the ticking noise from inside the canister.
One thing I noticed was when I took the cat out there was no precats as they were removed when I had it service a few years ago but they were supposed to put a cone in the manifold but there is nothing there, wondering if that could be causing the ticking noise from inside the canister.
I reckon a lot of these bolts don't get torqued up correctly, it's quite a high setting. Sometimes they are loose and other times like this, maybe overtightened? This fault crops up a fair bit amongst tvr's. Once the bolt head has sheared there shouldn't be any tension on the threads so it may not be that hard to remove. Maybe try penetrating oil and see if it can be tapped gently?
Tell you how to do it,
Right find a thick washer around 20mm hole in the middle and out side diameter aroumd 50mm place it on the crank (make sure seal is out) get some high tensile 2mm welding rods (can post some to you)weld on the washer inner hole circumterance now fit a large nut on so you can weld outer hex, now whilst still hot fit a socket sharp tap with hammer and bobs your uncle, this will work if any probs phone me.
Steve.......
Right find a thick washer around 20mm hole in the middle and out side diameter aroumd 50mm place it on the crank (make sure seal is out) get some high tensile 2mm welding rods (can post some to you)weld on the washer inner hole circumterance now fit a large nut on so you can weld outer hex, now whilst still hot fit a socket sharp tap with hammer and bobs your uncle, this will work if any probs phone me.
Steve.......
Paul V said:As discussed on email, try removing the pipes in the silencer box completely. On a standard car with all three cats in place it's a very pleasant noise.
Managed to get the bolt out using the bolt extractors, it came out quite easily in the end, also cut open the exhaust and sleeved half of the tubes to try and increase the noise a bit, didn’t work that well, might have another go at a later date.
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