Car pulling to the left
Discussion
Hey guys,
Taken from my reader rides thread, cars a 1989 Volvo 360 GLE with a welded diff, I've had it for a week now and bought it as it is.
My cars pulling to the left consistently, steering feels fine though. Took it to two tracking places today and neither could find the problem... even had it up on the ramp to check underneath, suspension all looks tight and sound, although the left balljoint had been replaced quite recently by the looks of it. Took both wheels off today myself and brakes don't seem to be sticking, it brakes in a straight line, tyre pressures are fine, tyre weights are fine... really at a loss as to what it could be? I have to hold the wheel at about 1 o'clock to get it to go straight, the wheel feels normal though, it self centres fine and sits straight but the car pulls left when the wheels straight, and you can feel the castor wanting to self centre the wheel when it's held at 1'oclock. Does anyone have any ideas? No odd tyre wear either...
I'm beginning to get a little suspicious about the entire left side though as well. All minor things, but a cap on the left of the front bumper is missing (as seen on the first few thread pics), theres a large dent on the front left quarter, it pulls to the left, it's had a new balljoint on the left, the left door speaker is blown, the left rear door won't open from the inside... something must have happened but I don't really understant what? The dent on the front left quarter is about a foot in length but completely self contained if that makes sense, ie it's within the panel and doesn't indicate a spillover into other panels in terms of impact, but either way somethings up. I really want to get this tracking thing sorted as one thing I absolutely cannot stand is a car that pulls in either direction.
Anyone have any ideas on what it might be, how to troubleshoot it, how to fix it, etc?
Taken from my reader rides thread, cars a 1989 Volvo 360 GLE with a welded diff, I've had it for a week now and bought it as it is.
My cars pulling to the left consistently, steering feels fine though. Took it to two tracking places today and neither could find the problem... even had it up on the ramp to check underneath, suspension all looks tight and sound, although the left balljoint had been replaced quite recently by the looks of it. Took both wheels off today myself and brakes don't seem to be sticking, it brakes in a straight line, tyre pressures are fine, tyre weights are fine... really at a loss as to what it could be? I have to hold the wheel at about 1 o'clock to get it to go straight, the wheel feels normal though, it self centres fine and sits straight but the car pulls left when the wheels straight, and you can feel the castor wanting to self centre the wheel when it's held at 1'oclock. Does anyone have any ideas? No odd tyre wear either...
I'm beginning to get a little suspicious about the entire left side though as well. All minor things, but a cap on the left of the front bumper is missing (as seen on the first few thread pics), theres a large dent on the front left quarter, it pulls to the left, it's had a new balljoint on the left, the left door speaker is blown, the left rear door won't open from the inside... something must have happened but I don't really understant what? The dent on the front left quarter is about a foot in length but completely self contained if that makes sense, ie it's within the panel and doesn't indicate a spillover into other panels in terms of impact, but either way somethings up. I really want to get this tracking thing sorted as one thing I absolutely cannot stand is a car that pulls in either direction.
Anyone have any ideas on what it might be, how to troubleshoot it, how to fix it, etc?
Ozzie Osmond said:
Accident damage twisted chassis?
Really hope not 
TheEnd said:
Have you tried it on a perfectly flat road?
90% of cars that pull to one side are pulling to the left as that is where the camber of the road goes.
Nope I know what that feels like and you can feel it through the wheel, and yeah I've had it on a flat road and it still pulls.90% of cars that pull to one side are pulling to the left as that is where the camber of the road goes.
ging84 said:
could easily be wheel balance
you say wheel weights are fine but how could you know unless you took the wheels off to have them balance tested
I suppose but you would feel this through the wheel surely? Also I changed the front left wheel and no difference.you say wheel weights are fine but how could you know unless you took the wheels off to have them balance tested
TonyRPH said:
Have you checked the rear alignment?
If the diff has been out, perhaps something hasn't been put back correctly?
Take some measurements between the axle lines (front to rear) and see if both sides are the same distance apart.
Haven't checked the rear at all other than to see if the suspension is alright. Will check this out, could well be the cause of it, would explain why the steering feels normal.If the diff has been out, perhaps something hasn't been put back correctly?
Take some measurements between the axle lines (front to rear) and see if both sides are the same distance apart.
Check items in following order:
1. Tyre pressures
2. **Proper four wheel laser alignment**
3. Wheels balanced [though if slightly out of balance this will not show as pulling to left]
4. Check wheels for trueness
5. Check suspension components.
6. Measure up ref' points of suspension to car fixing points.
7. Accurately measure car chassis/floor pan dimensions & their symmetry.
If car's had a knock chances are there's a steering arm/ARB that's bent or even suspension mounting point out of true.
1. Tyre pressures
2. **Proper four wheel laser alignment**
3. Wheels balanced [though if slightly out of balance this will not show as pulling to left]
4. Check wheels for trueness
5. Check suspension components.
6. Measure up ref' points of suspension to car fixing points.
7. Accurately measure car chassis/floor pan dimensions & their symmetry.
If car's had a knock chances are there's a steering arm/ARB that's bent or even suspension mounting point out of true.
Gat a mate to drive behind you and tell if your car is "crabbing". This is where the back of the car is not precisely following the front. Shouldn't be the case if you've had alignment checked but it's worth a look.
This clip shows a really serious example!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GV0QtaSqrF8
I don't know a single petrolhead let alone anybody who drives . I'm not a loner, honest, I've got plenty of friends, but it seems few people nowerdays can afford an 18yr old's insurance. My mum would freak out if I asked her to as well and probably wouldn't know what to look out for, plus I'm not seeing her for a few weeks. I'll try and get it up on the ramps on thursday as I know a friendly mechanic who wouldn't mind checking it out for free. Really very much hope it's not a bent chassis, I'd be gutted to have to let this car go.
. I'm not a loner, honest, I've got plenty of friends, but it seems few people nowerdays can afford an 18yr old's insurance. My mum would freak out if I asked her to as well and probably wouldn't know what to look out for, plus I'm not seeing her for a few weeks. I'll try and get it up on the ramps on thursday as I know a friendly mechanic who wouldn't mind checking it out for free. Really very much hope it's not a bent chassis, I'd be gutted to have to let this car go.It could be a dodgy tyre, if they are not unidirectional tyres then try swapping them side to side and see if it makes a difference.
You can also check if there are roughly equal amounts of thread showing each side on your steering rack as if a poor tracking job has been done people often take off the steering wheel and move it on it's splines to straighten it up.
You can also check if there are roughly equal amounts of thread showing each side on your steering rack as if a poor tracking job has been done people often take off the steering wheel and move it on it's splines to straighten it up.
Definately try swapping the tyres. I had two front tyres replaced, and the tracking done at a kwick f
k. The car pulled to the left as soon as I started driving it. 9 visits later and they still couldn't work out what the problem was.
After about 6 months the LH edge of the two new tyres was badly work. Kwick fk washed their hands off it. Refusing to even refund the tracking cost.
I did some research and someone on another forum told me to swap the tyres. The car pulled the other way. Kwick fk refused to even look at the car.
Paid for a fresh set of tyres at another garage, and the problem disappeared.
k. The car pulled to the left as soon as I started driving it. 9 visits later and they still couldn't work out what the problem was.After about 6 months the LH edge of the two new tyres was badly work. Kwick f
k washed their hands off it. Refusing to even refund the tracking cost. I did some research and someone on another forum told me to swap the tyres. The car pulled the other way. Kwick f
k refused to even look at the car.Paid for a fresh set of tyres at another garage, and the problem disappeared.
Definately try swapping the tyres. I had two front tyres replaced, and the tracking done at a kwick fk. The car pulled to the left as soon as I started driving it. 9 visits later and they still couldn't work out what the problem was.
After about 6 months the LH edge of the two new tyres was badly work. Kwick fk washed their hands off it. Refusing to even refund the tracking cost.
I did some research and someone on another forum told me to swap the tyres. The car pulled the other way. Kwick fk refused to even look at the car.
Paid for a fresh set of tyres at another garage, and the problem disappeared.
k. The car pulled to the left as soon as I started driving it. 9 visits later and they still couldn't work out what the problem was.After about 6 months the LH edge of the two new tyres was badly work. Kwick f
k washed their hands off it. Refusing to even refund the tracking cost. I did some research and someone on another forum told me to swap the tyres. The car pulled the other way. Kwick f
k refused to even look at the car.Paid for a fresh set of tyres at another garage, and the problem disappeared.
Seriously tho, if that rear axle is even only very slightly out of line then the welded diff will exaggerate the effects - a std open diff would obviously be able to make up for any slight difference in wheel rotation.
A welded diff takes no prisoners, there is absolutely no allowance for misalignment. If car still has original Volvo rear suspension then some upgrade work would be needed to re-align it and keep it in line whilst driving - anti-tramp-bars, A-frame, 4-link with Panhard rod as per rally Escorts, etc.
A welded diff takes no prisoners, there is absolutely no allowance for misalignment. If car still has original Volvo rear suspension then some upgrade work would be needed to re-align it and keep it in line whilst driving - anti-tramp-bars, A-frame, 4-link with Panhard rod as per rally Escorts, etc.
Edited by quiraing on Tuesday 11th December 17:36
quiraing said:
Aah that old chestnut.
Measure the wheelbase on each side of the car using some string.
If there's more than 12-inches of difference then you've found the problem.
The solution is to drive it into something hard like a house with the right side of the car only. And you absolutely MUST drive it only forwards into the house, otherwise you'll only complicate matters if you drive in reverse.
Re-measure, repeat as necessary until the length of string is the same on both sides.
On no account should you try to equalise the wheelbase by stretching the left-hand side of the car instead - that drain-pipe will pull clean off the wall.
You missed a smilie or two I suspect?Measure the wheelbase on each side of the car using some string.
If there's more than 12-inches of difference then you've found the problem.
The solution is to drive it into something hard like a house with the right side of the car only. And you absolutely MUST drive it only forwards into the house, otherwise you'll only complicate matters if you drive in reverse.
Re-measure, repeat as necessary until the length of string is the same on both sides.
On no account should you try to equalise the wheelbase by stretching the left-hand side of the car instead - that drain-pipe will pull clean off the wall.
Edited by quiraing on Tuesday 11th December 17:21
Oh go on then...
On a serious note, OP swap the front wheels over and see if the car then pulls to the right. If it still has the same (or reduced) pull to the left, do the same swap to the rear wheels. And report back
.quiraing said:
anti-tramp-bars, A-frame, 4-link with Panhard rod as per rally Escorts, etc.
I endorse this with a +1, worn bushes, balljoints, subframe mountings etc will cause mis-alignment which doesn't occur statically. Crossflow Kid said:
robinessex said:
Er, a welded diff !!!! ??? Explain.
It's a diff. Welded.Edited by HustleRussell on Tuesday 11th December 17:51
Quite the opposite, a welded diff is probably the best thing a rwd can have in the snow, your locking both wheels together so your unlikely to spin all the power out of one wheel and its also so much more predictable. Cars running welders get alot of stick but i dont really get it, its so predictable and planted, itl only break away when its provoked and when it does its completely readable and predictable. I find open diff RWDs harder to drive carefully than welders as its just so much more unpredictable. Better the devil you know and all that.
As for the serious suggestions into the problem, thanks, I'm going to look into them tomorrow or thursday.
As for the serious suggestions into the problem, thanks, I'm going to look into them tomorrow or thursday.
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