Hifi Accessory Wire?
Discussion
Unlike most cars where the stereo headunit only powers up when the ignition is on, my Griff stereo is on all the time. The wire that should be accessory power is just tapped off the permananrly live wire.
Before I start trying to untangle and test the mass of wires behind there, is there, or should there be a "live on ignition" wire behind there? Or is there some easy way of getting this facility?
At the moment I have to remove the faceplate of the stereo to fully power it off.
Cheers, Sy
Before I start trying to untangle and test the mass of wires behind there, is there, or should there be a "live on ignition" wire behind there? Or is there some easy way of getting this facility?
At the moment I have to remove the faceplate of the stereo to fully power it off.
Cheers, Sy
Mines (1992) the same - think this might be another 'they all do that sir'. The steering column is Cavalier, so the ignition switch must have the facility for a separate 'accessory-only position' on it, but whether TVR used it is another matter.
Edited - you could find the live feed behind/to the radio, and put a switch in under the dash - might be safer than trying to figure out the wiring loom. A Griff isn't a Griff without a couple of unknown switches under the dash anyway
>> Edited by andy43 on Tuesday 7th September 09:42
Edited - you could find the live feed behind/to the radio, and put a switch in under the dash - might be safer than trying to figure out the wiring loom. A Griff isn't a Griff without a couple of unknown switches under the dash anyway
>> Edited by andy43 on Tuesday 7th September 09:42
There is a switched live from the ignition barrel. From memory, I think it's a white wire. I have used this to run my hard wired Road Angel, so it comes on with the ignition only.
If you remove the dash, and funble around you should be able to trace it from the steering column left towards the passenger side and run a take off from there.
Have a look in the bible at the wiring diagram to confirm colour, unless anyone has access to one today?
If you remove the dash, and funble around you should be able to trace it from the steering column left towards the passenger side and run a take off from there.
Have a look in the bible at the wiring diagram to confirm colour, unless anyone has access to one today?
starmist said:
There is a switched live from the ignition barrel. From memory, I think it's a white wire. I have used this to run my hard wired Road Angel, so it comes on with the ignition only.
If you remove the dash, and funble around you should be able to trace it from the steering column left towards the passenger side and run a take off from there.
Have a look in the bible at the wiring diagram to confirm colour, unless anyone has access to one today?
Cheers. Isn't the dash glued in though? I've had the stereo out, but had hoped to find a solution without unsticking the whole dash. Random switch might be the way forward

If there's a cable in there somewhere, just removing the column cowling might give you access, if only enough for a
scotchlok connector?
All the ign switch cables should plug in on a multiplug to the ign barrel (if it's same as a Ford or VW) - you could possibly link a cable direct to the multiplug plug?
>> Edited by andy43 on Tuesday 7th September 13:36
scotchlok connector? All the ign switch cables should plug in on a multiplug to the ign barrel (if it's same as a Ford or VW) - you could possibly link a cable direct to the multiplug plug?
>> Edited by andy43 on Tuesday 7th September 13:36
Dont take the dash off!
You only need to remove the steering column cowl (as already said).
On my '96 500 there is a spare terminal on the ignition barrel. The only trouble is that all of the terminals only become live with postion 2 (when the oil and battery light are on).
I didnt want all this on as well as the stereo and so left it permanently wired. I take the face plate off each time anyway so it makes no differnce.
Having said that I think I noticed that the heater panel lights come on with position one of the ignition so I may be wrong.
You only need to remove the steering column cowl (as already said).
On my '96 500 there is a spare terminal on the ignition barrel. The only trouble is that all of the terminals only become live with postion 2 (when the oil and battery light are on).
I didnt want all this on as well as the stereo and so left it permanently wired. I take the face plate off each time anyway so it makes no differnce.
Having said that I think I noticed that the heater panel lights come on with position one of the ignition so I may be wrong.
There is no issue removing the dash. It is not glued and is only held in by two screws just above the column cowl.
If you want to do a proper job, take your stereo out, remove the steering wheel, and column top cowl, unscrew the two screws and gently pull the dash out. Trace the correct wire through, and fit a scotch lock to it and the feed wire to your stereo.
Pretty simple really!
If you want to do a proper job, take your stereo out, remove the steering wheel, and column top cowl, unscrew the two screws and gently pull the dash out. Trace the correct wire through, and fit a scotch lock to it and the feed wire to your stereo.
Pretty simple really!
And a wingnut bolt, hidden behind the left-hand dash air vent. Just remove the vent and stick your fingers in behind, you'll soon find it. There should be a washer on there too, make sure you dont drop this into the bottomless pit behind the dash, beacuse I can promise you you'll never find it again! But yes, dash is easy to remove. Just be careful putting it back in because if it's the origianl veneer it can crack easily.
raceboy said:
Daft question........
Doesn't your radio have an off button
Yes, but this will ultimately be to power more than just the headunit.
Cheers guys. Thought I'd read somewhere that the dash was glued on, but the wingnut does explain why I couldn't get the left-side loose! I'll try the cowling approach first, tho.
I think raceboy means an off switch on the radio, there is no need to remove the "face" to ensure the unit is actually off, unless its faulty of course. Im sure if you just pop the radio out you can get to the wiring and then just extend to the ignition switch, saves removing the dash.
Off swiches on stereos don't always switch them completly off.
For example, my MP3 player will still eject discs, still allow some parameter changes and demo mode can be activated all when apparently off. This means it is still pulling a current from the battery.
But then again, so does the clock.
I think its far easy to just remove the face when not using it. Might save buying a new hood or window too.
For example, my MP3 player will still eject discs, still allow some parameter changes and demo mode can be activated all when apparently off. This means it is still pulling a current from the battery.
But then again, so does the clock.
I think its far easy to just remove the face when not using it. Might save buying a new hood or window too.
I have never heard of a radio that had to have the panel removed to prevent battery drain, i think you must have a problem. Also i have never come across a radio that was not OK, only a permanant supply, ie GM,VW. Some functions may work without the acc, but once CD ejected etc would hibernate. Many actually come with the VW or normal wiring, just choose. Then again i only handle 1000 + a month !
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