Discussion
Picked up a second hand set of 16" Spiders to see if I can tame the car (the 18's look great, but I can't seem to stop the car from bouncing all over the road!).
I've got some 225/45/16's and 245/45/16's coming for front/rear. Just to check - I have the original document that came with the Factory spider conversion. The front ET is 38 and the rear ET is 25 - is this correct?
Also, the factory document has the following geometry settings - anyone think anything different to these?
[i]Front & rear camber 0.75 to 1.25 negative, as equal as possible side to side
Front tracking (toe) 10 to 20 minutes TOTAL ACROSS AXLE (5 to 10 minutes each wheel)
Rear tracking (toe) 4 to 6 minutes EACH WHEEL (as equal as possible side to side)
Front castor 4.75 to 5.25 Positive (more important that each side is within 0.5 of the other)
NOTE: As the front and rear wheel alignment are adjustable independently, but only the front wheels are connected to each other (by the rack) it is important that the pair of rear wheels are aligned to the nominal centreline of the car and not just to each other. The castor is not usually adjusted, the spacer at the upper ball joint is simply to ensure adequate clearance at the full extents of negative camber adjustment.[/i]
As a side-note, I had them re-powder coated at a place in Brum ( http://www.citypowdercoating.co.uk/ ) all four wheels chemically stripped, blasted and coated for £80. Shameless plug I know, but they did a great job and for £10 extra per wheel, they reomve tyres, do the wheel, then new-valve and balance - bargain! The transfers were £7 from Fleabay.
BEFORE
AFTER (My car is Sliver - and anthracite doesn't really go - so silver seemed a better choice)
I've got some 225/45/16's and 245/45/16's coming for front/rear. Just to check - I have the original document that came with the Factory spider conversion. The front ET is 38 and the rear ET is 25 - is this correct?
Also, the factory document has the following geometry settings - anyone think anything different to these?
[i]Front & rear camber 0.75 to 1.25 negative, as equal as possible side to side
Front tracking (toe) 10 to 20 minutes TOTAL ACROSS AXLE (5 to 10 minutes each wheel)
Rear tracking (toe) 4 to 6 minutes EACH WHEEL (as equal as possible side to side)
Front castor 4.75 to 5.25 Positive (more important that each side is within 0.5 of the other)
NOTE: As the front and rear wheel alignment are adjustable independently, but only the front wheels are connected to each other (by the rack) it is important that the pair of rear wheels are aligned to the nominal centreline of the car and not just to each other. The castor is not usually adjusted, the spacer at the upper ball joint is simply to ensure adequate clearance at the full extents of negative camber adjustment.[/i]
As a side-note, I had them re-powder coated at a place in Brum ( http://www.citypowdercoating.co.uk/ ) all four wheels chemically stripped, blasted and coated for £80. Shameless plug I know, but they did a great job and for £10 extra per wheel, they reomve tyres, do the wheel, then new-valve and balance - bargain! The transfers were £7 from Fleabay.
BEFORE
AFTER (My car is Sliver - and anthracite doesn't really go - so silver seemed a better choice)
Might be of interest? - http://www.sportmotive.com/partsales/wheels.html
I bought the kit of a guy from Holland along with the AP calipers (not sure if he still has any left? - they seem to crop up from time to time on the classifieds), and fitted myself.
Sportmotive do a very good conversion, and I have bought the spigot rings from them (and the front wheel spacers for use with the 18" Spiders).
Don't forget to budget for new front and rear discs as well....
Sportmotive do a very good conversion, and I have bought the spigot rings from them (and the front wheel spacers for use with the 18" Spiders).
Don't forget to budget for new front and rear discs as well....
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