What Changes Would Other Builders Make To The Standard Kit?
Discussion
As above, what changes would you make to the standard factory kit to ease the build process?
My suggestion would be for the factory not to weld the master cylinder bolts to the frame. all this does is makes more work for the builder when it would be far easier to leave the holes there so the builder can fit and fettle the pedal bulkhead easily and can mark the holes from behind, the same way that they do with the large holes for the master cylinders to fit through between the offending bolts.
Any others from other builders? This could also turn in to a "here's how you fit this bit the easiest way..." type of guide.
My suggestion would be for the factory not to weld the master cylinder bolts to the frame. all this does is makes more work for the builder when it would be far easier to leave the holes there so the builder can fit and fettle the pedal bulkhead easily and can mark the holes from behind, the same way that they do with the large holes for the master cylinders to fit through between the offending bolts.
Any others from other builders? This could also turn in to a "here's how you fit this bit the easiest way..." type of guide.
Erm... have a look at my build pages, that should just about cover it 
Seriously, this is the second car I've built now and to be fair to Ted & the gang, their components are pretty well sorted. I wouldn't expect them to support all the tweaks I'm making, but if I had to pick one thing, it'd be for the engine mount plates on the chassis to be the right profile to match the actual engine mounts themselves.
Seriously, this is the second car I've built now and to be fair to Ted & the gang, their components are pretty well sorted. I wouldn't expect them to support all the tweaks I'm making, but if I had to pick one thing, it'd be for the engine mount plates on the chassis to be the right profile to match the actual engine mounts themselves.I would ask the factory to mark all of the pictures in the build manuel with an arrow designating which way is forward or to the left or right. In other words say in the begining that when you see an arrow it will always designate a given direction. Maybe I am the only person who had this problem, but some of the pictues where shot so close up that you could not tell the oreintation of the car which leads to confussion. I would suggest to owners that when they recieve the manuel you take it to a print store and have the thing printed on quality paper and bound. I also left several lined blank pages between each chapter which allowed me to make notes on mods. In the back of the book, there are actually three books in all, is reserved for Modifications part numbers and normal mainteance is tracked there. Lee
If using decent quality mounts you need to chamfer the chassis plate leading and trailing edges so the engine mounts sit snug surface to surface .. Ive seen two where the welds on the mount lugs had been ground off to achieve the same thing (this isnt really the correct way) . Also for LS fitment, adapter plates are usually needed (due differing longitudinal block mounting lugs to std SBC/BBC)
Storer said:
Those bolts are welded because with the body in place you can't get at both sides, on your own, to remove one or all master cylinders.
Paul
Good point. I guess it takes a rebuild or a problem to find that feature.Paul
Still bloody annoying when you are fitting that bulkhead though...
:Storer said:
I think my best mod is the removable panel in the front of the centre section above the pedals.
Saves all the struggling under the dashboard making adjustments, etc.
Paul
+1. I would also recommend putting an alloy sheet across the front bulkhead (the bulkhead between the rack and the rad) to act as a bit of heat shield from the rad to the battery and pedal area.Saves all the struggling under the dashboard making adjustments, etc.
Paul
Edited by Storer on Friday 14th December 21:45
Storer said:
I think my best mod is the removable panel in the front of the centre section above the pedals.
Saves all the struggling under the dashboard making adjustments, etc.
Paul
Nice mod and worth putting it in my build. I saw a removable panel kit on a US site if I recall. Did you buy it there or made it yourself?Saves all the struggling under the dashboard making adjustments, etc.
Paul
Edited by Storer on Friday 14th December 21:45
macgtech said:
+1. I would also recommend putting an alloy sheet across the front bulkhead (the bulkhead between the rack and the rad) to act as a bit of heat shield from the rad to the battery and pedal area.
If you do that, it restricts access to master cyls, battery, rack, etc, so make sure it's removable, not riveted!I found a better way of cutting down that heat transfer is to put heat proof material on the inside of the actual bulkhead (& above it on the GRP), then put a second panel on the inside of the footwell, thereby creating a double skin front firewall with heat protection
356Speedster said:
If you do that, it restricts access to master cyls, battery, rack, etc, so make sure it's removable, not riveted!
I found a better way of cutting down that heat transfer is to put heat proof material on the inside of the actual bulkhead (& above it on the GRP), then put a second panel on the inside of the footwell, thereby creating a double skin front firewall with heat protection
access is genuinely not an issue with the extra bulkhead.I found a better way of cutting down that heat transfer is to put heat proof material on the inside of the actual bulkhead (& above it on the GRP), then put a second panel on the inside of the footwell, thereby creating a double skin front firewall with heat protection
Gassing Station | Ultima | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff