DB9 and jacking points

[Ocean53]

I am about to start the rear brake pad change, and would be grateful for advice on jacking the car up.

I have the jack recomended on this forum with the rubber pads,but the workshop manual says to use axle stands on the jacking points. There isn't room for the jack and then axle stands.

How do you other DB9 owners jack up the car for wheel cleaning etc?

[mikey k]

Yep its a PITA
I was at BR the other day and noted they lift off the front of the rear sub frame
But that is with the covers off

[mikey k]

Dug out a few other bits for you

http://pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&f...

I'm contemplating a set of these

http://www.cjautosheywood.co.uk/hyramp.shtml

[Ocean53]

Hmmm. is this why I have been quoted £500 + from a main dealer, when the parts only cost me £137

Thanks. Mikey k

[ds2000]

mikey k said:

I'm contemplating a set of these

http://www.cjautosheywood.co.uk/hyramp.shtml

They look interesting, not quite sure how the lock mechanism works (bad pics I'd say) as I'd not be putting my head under the car without knowing full well there was no way it would collapse....

[SLacKer]

When I did my DB9 exhaust valve I used a position just forward of the lower arm mounting point. I have a photo where you can see the position although it was not of the axle stand position so is not perfect for demonstrating where to put it - it is just visible to the right of the bottom of the spring and is blue (this is the offside spring).



I also let the jack down to seat the stand then tension the jack again to give two points of support. I have found that ice hockey pucks are perfect for protect the jacking point. One day someone will invent a trolley jack with a locking mechanism.

I found the front more of a problem for axle stands than the rear it is pretty obvious with the car up and the wheel off where to place the stand.

Edited by SLacKer on Saturday 15th December 07:57

[MaverickV12]

Ocean53 said:

Hmmm. is this why I have been quoted £500 + from a main dealer, when the parts only cost me £137

Is that what AM are quoting ? I'm obviously in the wrong business. I changed the 4 discs, 12 pads, and all the pins and springs. A complete overhaul, I thought the brakes were ok before I touched them, when I did change them I realise that they were bad.

I'm guessing you're changing the handbrake pads? When I took the pads out of the handbrake, they FELL out, the asbestos pad had come away from the steel part of the pad.

Thank goodness I changed them.

[Ocean53]

Not handbrake, just the rear pads, not even the discs!

[Christiaan0922]

mikey k said:

Dug out a few other bits for you

http://pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&f...

I'm contemplating a set of these

http://www.cjautosheywood.co.uk/hyramp.shtml

Thanks for the insight on the jacking points Mikey, I haven't heard any email reply back from cjauto yet but am also considering the hydraulic lift ramps they make. Seems like they could be a perfect solution.

[Lunablack]

I'm not familiar with the underneath of a DB9 but if its similar to a V8V then this was my method.... But it does need 2 jacks..



I position a jack either side, on the subframe mounting bolts like this



Then I lift the car a bit at a time on each side until its high enough for me to get the undertray off..

To get the tray off I slide under the car whilst its still on its jacks, BUT I DO PLACE a couple of axle stands under the car. As close to the position I want to place them with the tray off, but not yet making contact, if that makes sense?

Once the tray is off which only takes around 30 seconds as I use a battery drill with a torx bit in it...I can the position the stands wher I want them....

Which is here. Note rubber pad to stop metal to metal contact an prevent stand from slipping..



A you can see, I slap leave the jack under as secondary support

Edited by Lunablack on Wednesday 17th July 08:08

[DB9VolanteDriver]

Ocean53 said:

I am about to start the rear brake pad change, and would be grateful for advice on jacking the car up.

I have the jack recomended on this forum with the rubber pads,but the workshop manual says to use axle stands on the jacking points. There isn't room for the jack and then axle stands.

How do you other DB9 owners jack up the car for wheel cleaning etc?

Maybe there is an obvious reason, but why aren't you simply doing one side at a time? Then your hydraulic jack is sufficient w/o the need for any axle stands at all. Just curious...

[peterr96]

DB9VolanteDriver said:

Maybe there is an obvious reason, but why aren't you simply doing one side at a time? Then your hydraulic jack is sufficient w/o the need for any axle stands at all. Just curious...

Hey maybe there is!
Personally I wouldn't do any work that entailed sticking by head within the wheelarch (let alone under the vehicle) without there being some form of mechanical propping on a vehicle. That's asking for trouble.
may look to see if there is a viable way to prop my trolley jack from under the saddle to the jack chassis. That could eliminate the need to have an axle stand for work on one side.

[mikey k]

peterr96 said:

DB9VolanteDriver said:

Maybe there is an obvious reason, but why aren't you simply doing one side at a time? Then your hydraulic jack is sufficient w/o the need for any axle stands at all. Just curious...

Hey maybe there is!
Personally I wouldn't do any work that entailed sticking by head within the wheelarch (let alone under the vehicle) without there being some form of mechanical propping on a vehicle. That's asking for trouble.
may look to see if there is a viable way to prop my trolley jack from under the saddle to the jack chassis. That could eliminate the need to have an axle stand for work on one side.

I have this conumdrum as well.

[DB9VolanteDriver]

peterr96 said:

DB9VolanteDriver said:

Maybe there is an obvious reason, but why aren't you simply doing one side at a time? Then your hydraulic jack is sufficient w/o the need for any axle stands at all. Just curious...

Hey maybe there is!
Personally I wouldn't do any work that entailed sticking by head within the wheelarch (let alone under the vehicle) without there being some form of mechanical propping on a vehicle. That's asking for trouble.
may look to see if there is a viable way to prop my trolley jack from under the saddle to the jack chassis. That could eliminate the need to have an axle stand for work on one side.

Well, if that's the concern, then a large block of wood placed directly under the disc is sufficient if the trolley jack were to somehow release. BTW, I'm not advocating sticking your head under the car.

[Ken Figenus]

Agree on these H&S points! Axle stands and the wheel shoved under tha car. I used a hammer to hold up a car that was easing down on me once - the tarmac under the jack was giving way! Be careful under there! Axle stands are cheap!

[simonpa]

ALWAYS use axle stand(s).

Just jack 1 side/corner and then you can put the axle stand under the suspension mounting point, or under the ball joint just behind the disk.

Lower the jack to get the axle stand to start taking the load - or lower/remove the jack and then do the same the other side.
If you are working on a tarmac drive, put some wood under the stand feet to spread the load (especially in this warmer weather).

Those hydraulic ramps look good, but you still need axle stands under the car to support it.

If your jack is too high to go under the side of the car, you can use offcuts of 6x2 joist, with a bevel on.
Put 1 in front of each wheel and drive up onto it - you now have an extra 2" clearance to get the jack in.