top and bottom balljoints

[chrisdurham]

Hi Guys,

Ive searched and foudn quite a few threads on what type of front balljoints to use on the chim -

I've seen Lada and Saab 900X cited, but I've also read about these not being exactly suitable due to how far they move?

So, Im probably going to get correct ones being safety related - not worth the risk to save a few ££.

Which is the best supplier that will give you the part with the correct range of movement.

Cheers

Chris

[SILICONEKID340HP]

chrisdurham said:

Hi Guys,

Ive searched and foudn quite a few threads on what type of front balljoints to use on the chim -

I've seen Lada and Saab 900X cited, but I've also read about these not being exactly suitable due to how far they move?

So, Im probably going to get correct ones being safety related - not worth the risk to save a few ££.

Which is the best supplier that will give you the part with the correct range of movement.

Cheers

Chris

The original one`s have changed slightly in design ,will not make a difference unless you want your alignment extreme for track days !

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Monday 17th December 13:13

[TVR Beaver]

Take a look here.... you also need to avoid them locking up!!

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

:0

[TJC46]

Not the cheapest available but a good trusted supplier.

Bottom ball joint.

http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/C00...

Top ball joint.

http://www.clever-trevor.net/TVR/Parts_details/C00...

[carsy]

TVR Beaver said:

Take a look here.... you also need to avoid them locking up!!

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

:0

Yes i remember this. Was doing mine at the same time and had similar issues. I ended up buying bottom joints from Power. At full droop could just about get the bolts in. I just placed a washer underneath the two outer bolts to give me that little bit of extra adjustment and clearance. Fortunately when mine are set at the right camber the top joint is pulled fully out, so wasnt too much of an issue.

keep your fingers crossed op that you dont have to push that top joint too far in.

[HENRYKS CHIM]

Hi! there.
Ive layed up my car and am in the process of replacing the front wishbones and ball joints.
I also have read the threads on the forum (SCARY) and have already been down the road your going.I bought the chaep ones (sent them back) which without taking the rubber shroud off, look the same but there is a real problem in that the after market ball joints have lost approximatly 7mm of radial movement because the origonal one has a relief machined on opposite sides allowing further movement compared to the aftermarket ones that dont have this extra machining done, this lack of movement will cause the shaft to hit the body of the ball joint. I eventually tracked down the origonal manufacturer who supplied me with the correct ones but they are more expensive.
Concidering the safety aspect its money well spent.
Please take a look at the photos (bottom joint) which will explain what ive written.
supplier was AMSTEER SALES : TEL No 0182761000

Edited by HENRYKS CHIM on Tuesday 18th December 09:54

Edited by HENRYKS CHIM on Tuesday 18th December 09:57

[chrisdurham]

hello,

thats an excellent example, is the top balljoint the same? in terms of the cut out..

[HENRYKS CHIM]

The top joint is SAAB which is a standard part and has the same articulation as my origonal ones.I purchased part number GSJ696 PURCHASED FROM UNIPART

[quattrophenia]

I wonder why they didn't just fit Ford ones when designing the chassis? When it comes to parts like this I would always buy from the specialist suppliers who know their stuff, the cost difference shouldn't be that much difference anyway.