Headlight Covers / Window Black Borders - Which Product?
Discussion
I've been scouring the old posts on the subject, but as they're over a yr old now, I figured there could be some new advice out there....
I don't like the idea of using vinyl, so I guess I'll need to paint something on to create the black borders. I found a post recommending something called Betawipe 4002, but I can't seem to find anywhere selling it in the UK. Google'ing Adhesion Promoter for Plastics throws up a lot of responses, but I don't know what's a good / bad product.
So over to you guys... what products have been used and are standing the test of time? Links to UK shops would be good too!
I don't like the idea of using vinyl, so I guess I'll need to paint something on to create the black borders. I found a post recommending something called Betawipe 4002, but I can't seem to find anywhere selling it in the UK. Google'ing Adhesion Promoter for Plastics throws up a lot of responses, but I don't know what's a good / bad product.
So over to you guys... what products have been used and are standing the test of time? Links to UK shops would be good too!
It needs to be something like the Betawipe as it etches into the plastic. If you just use paint the bonding will just pull it off.
Visit an independent windscreen fitter. He may be able to pass on a half empty bottle. Don't try the mainstream fitting companies as their H&E policies will not allow their guys to pass anything on.
Better still pay the guy to fit them for you. The skill they have in applying both the primer we are talking about and the bonding adhesive is well worth paying for.
Steve
Visit an independent windscreen fitter. He may be able to pass on a half empty bottle. Don't try the mainstream fitting companies as their H&E policies will not allow their guys to pass anything on.
Better still pay the guy to fit them for you. The skill they have in applying both the primer we are talking about and the bonding adhesive is well worth paying for.
Steve
Thanks Steve, there's a few independents near by according to Google, so I'll try to pop in..... however, according to Dow's website, the 4002 is obsolete 
Apparently they only do Betawipe 6600 surface applicator, but it's meant for glass. Do you know if there's an issue using the newer glass version on plastic?
As Betawipe is looking like a tricky one to find, does anyone else have any alternative recommendations?
Apparently they only do Betawipe 6600 surface applicator, but it's meant for glass. Do you know if there's an issue using the newer glass version on plastic?As Betawipe is looking like a tricky one to find, does anyone else have any alternative recommendations?
Before you use the Sikaflex 295 UV adhesive, you have to prime it with Sika Primer 209D. I used this primer for the windows and headlight covers for several cars with excellent results. You cannot go wrong with these products.
JohnMcL said:
You might look at Sikaflex-295i UV. Specified for plastic glazing on boats so should be a breeze on headlight covers. Anyone got experience of using?
@dobx
thanks I will give it a try, the epoxy solution is good but the handling (24h waiting for hardening) is not too great.
Have you seen the cars a few years later ? Typically the betaprime works ok for a while but if it gets stressed, like on my canam side windows it will
delaminate and I even had grinded the plexi before applying the betaprime.
thanks I will give it a try, the epoxy solution is good but the handling (24h waiting for hardening) is not too great.
Have you seen the cars a few years later ? Typically the betaprime works ok for a while but if it gets stressed, like on my canam side windows it will
delaminate and I even had grinded the plexi before applying the betaprime.
spatz said:
@dobx
thanks I will give it a try, the epoxy solution is good but the handling (24h waiting for hardening) is not too great.
Have you seen the cars a few years later ? Typically the betaprime works ok for a while but if it gets stressed, like on my canam side windows it will
delaminate and I even had grinded the plexi before applying the betaprime.
Yes, I used the primer on 2 projects. 1 is now 8 years old, and the other is 5 years old without issue. Before using Sikaflex, I tried other primers which did not last.thanks I will give it a try, the epoxy solution is good but the handling (24h waiting for hardening) is not too great.
Have you seen the cars a few years later ? Typically the betaprime works ok for a while but if it gets stressed, like on my canam side windows it will
delaminate and I even had grinded the plexi before applying the betaprime.
Guys,
Learn from my mistakes...
Since I had not done this before (bonded a poly screen in) I thought I had researched enough to feel confident to do it.
First - Mask up - and use a light scouring pad to take the glaze off the surface to be primed. Be careful not to destroy you nice mask line.
Use a special Silka cleaner, and leave for 10 mins (not mentioned anywhere). Your supplier should be able to tell you which one.
Then apply a thin layer of primer (not thick)
Allow to dry thoroughly and then bond using a Vee shaped bead (cut the nozzle to a Vee on one side).
Once dry, remove the mask, and you should not have the problem with the primer de-laminating later, or chipping off at the edges when you take off the mask.
I WISH I had known all this before I started....
Learn from my mistakes...
Since I had not done this before (bonded a poly screen in) I thought I had researched enough to feel confident to do it.
First - Mask up - and use a light scouring pad to take the glaze off the surface to be primed. Be careful not to destroy you nice mask line.
Use a special Silka cleaner, and leave for 10 mins (not mentioned anywhere). Your supplier should be able to tell you which one.
Then apply a thin layer of primer (not thick)
Allow to dry thoroughly and then bond using a Vee shaped bead (cut the nozzle to a Vee on one side).
Once dry, remove the mask, and you should not have the problem with the primer de-laminating later, or chipping off at the edges when you take off the mask.
I WISH I had known all this before I started....
3Dee said:
Guys,
Learn from my mistakes...
Since I had not done this before (bonded a poly screen in) I thought I had researched enough to feel confident to do it.
First - Mask up - and use a light scouring pad to take the glaze off the surface to be primed. Be careful not to destroy you nice mask line.
Use a special Silka cleaner, and leave for 10 mins (not mentioned anywhere). Your supplier should be able to tell you which one.
Then apply a thin layer of primer (not thick)
Allow to dry thoroughly and then bond using a Vee shaped bead (cut the nozzle to a Vee on one side).
Once dry, remove the mask, and you should not have the problem with the primer de-laminating later, or chipping off at the edges when you take off the mask.
I WISH I had known all this before I started....
Cheers Keith, I'll make a note of the advice! I've ordered the same stuff the factory use, so will just go with that and remember your words of wisdom!Learn from my mistakes...
Since I had not done this before (bonded a poly screen in) I thought I had researched enough to feel confident to do it.
First - Mask up - and use a light scouring pad to take the glaze off the surface to be primed. Be careful not to destroy you nice mask line.
Use a special Silka cleaner, and leave for 10 mins (not mentioned anywhere). Your supplier should be able to tell you which one.
Then apply a thin layer of primer (not thick)
Allow to dry thoroughly and then bond using a Vee shaped bead (cut the nozzle to a Vee on one side).
Once dry, remove the mask, and you should not have the problem with the primer de-laminating later, or chipping off at the edges when you take off the mask.
I WISH I had known all this before I started....
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