Engine cuts out
Discussion
Well, I have had my Griff 500 for 2 years and was hoping I had got away without posting a problem. No such luck 
The engine has started to cut out and die after a long run on hot days and bumpy roads. After leaving it stand, it will re start after 5 - 10 minutes and run ok from then on.
I have read all the threads on these type of problems and come to my own conclusions.
I would just like to see what everybody elses thoughts are before I go and do something. I have the SH bible, so have all his tips.
By the way, I cannot nip down the road to a diagnostics machine. Thanks.
The engine has started to cut out and die after a long run on hot days and bumpy roads. After leaving it stand, it will re start after 5 - 10 minutes and run ok from then on.
I have read all the threads on these type of problems and come to my own conclusions.
I would just like to see what everybody elses thoughts are before I go and do something. I have the SH bible, so have all his tips.
By the way, I cannot nip down the road to a diagnostics machine. Thanks.
I would also say the coil as I had this happen to me. New coils only cost £25 or so, so you may want to take a chance and replace the coil.
If the coil does not cure the problem I would suggest you take it to a garage other wise it could take ages and a lot of money working your way through all the possible issues.
David
If the coil does not cure the problem I would suggest you take it to a garage other wise it could take ages and a lot of money working your way through all the possible issues.
David
As said above, the cheapest option will be to get it on a diagnostics machine, even if it means trailering it miles to get it checked. It's a Land Rover/Rover tester (£100-£150 ish), so a 4x4/Range Rover specialist may have one. Or it could be the ign amp, coil, leads, ecu wiring, duff temp sensor, relay etc 
been there got the teeshirt 
been there got the teeshirt 
Intermittant problems like this are the worst sort, because you can't count on them happening while your TVR specialist/ealer is there. Are you prepared to get your hands dirty and investigate the problem yourself?
If so, I would start by trying to identify whether the problem occurs in the fuel or ignition systems. If the engine is totally dead there are a couple of very easy ways to do this. Firstly listen for the sound of the fuel pump: when the pump is on you should be able to hear a quiet humming noise coming from the back of the car; the pump should run for a second or so when you turn the ignition on. Secondly, put a passive strobe light in series with one of the HT leads. Position the light so you can see it from inside the car (bonnet up obviously!) and you should see the light flashing when you crank the engine over.
It would be worth doing these tests when the car is working properly so you know what you are looking for when the problem crops up.
Once you know which system is playing up, it should be easy enough to track down the cause.
If you aren't prepared to investigate the problem yourself and just want to try swapping components to see if you can guess the fault, I would go for fuel pump relay, ignition amplifier and coil in that order. I don't recommend swapping components like this because it gets expensive and doesn't always fix the problem (especially if you have multiple faults) but I appreciate that not everyone enjoys rolling their sleeves up and getting dirty.
If so, I would start by trying to identify whether the problem occurs in the fuel or ignition systems. If the engine is totally dead there are a couple of very easy ways to do this. Firstly listen for the sound of the fuel pump: when the pump is on you should be able to hear a quiet humming noise coming from the back of the car; the pump should run for a second or so when you turn the ignition on. Secondly, put a passive strobe light in series with one of the HT leads. Position the light so you can see it from inside the car (bonnet up obviously!) and you should see the light flashing when you crank the engine over.
It would be worth doing these tests when the car is working properly so you know what you are looking for when the problem crops up.
Once you know which system is playing up, it should be easy enough to track down the cause.
If you aren't prepared to investigate the problem yourself and just want to try swapping components to see if you can guess the fault, I would go for fuel pump relay, ignition amplifier and coil in that order. I don't recommend swapping components like this because it gets expensive and doesn't always fix the problem (especially if you have multiple faults) but I appreciate that not everyone enjoys rolling their sleeves up and getting dirty.
. Bumpy roads / blind fumbling over the years, tend to work them lose, good luck any way.Hmm, given a bit of research - could be...
1. Faulty engine temperature sensor, when hot the ECU will think the engine is cold and squirt over rich mixture in...
2. A Fuel lock, which prevents fuel from getting to the injectors, when the engine cools the bubble condenses and the lock dissapears...
3. Air leaks in the Plenum - fixed with a bit of heat proof tape round the join between plenum and engine...
4. Poor earth connection from engine to the battery...
5. Failed petrol pump - can you hear it whine when you ignition? Having said that - it might work, but not deliver the required presure...
6. Blocked fuel injectors...
7. Blocked fuel filter...
Any more work I can offer for a wet Sunday?
1. Faulty engine temperature sensor, when hot the ECU will think the engine is cold and squirt over rich mixture in...
2. A Fuel lock, which prevents fuel from getting to the injectors, when the engine cools the bubble condenses and the lock dissapears...
3. Air leaks in the Plenum - fixed with a bit of heat proof tape round the join between plenum and engine...
4. Poor earth connection from engine to the battery...
5. Failed petrol pump - can you hear it whine when you ignition? Having said that - it might work, but not deliver the required presure...
6. Blocked fuel injectors...
7. Blocked fuel filter...
Any more work I can offer for a wet Sunday?
Many thanks to everybody for their comments.
I had thought electrical initially.
One of the threads I found from Mark Adams mentioned oil leaking from the front of the coil. I checked this and there was oil leaking.
Given that the coil would expire anyway, I purchased a new Bosch coil from the very helpful Tim Lamont at ACT and fitted it.
Hope this will cure it...but of course it could take a bit of running to find that one out
I had thought electrical initially.
One of the threads I found from Mark Adams mentioned oil leaking from the front of the coil. I checked this and there was oil leaking.
Given that the coil would expire anyway, I purchased a new Bosch coil from the very helpful Tim Lamont at ACT and fitted it.
Hope this will cure it...but of course it could take a bit of running to find that one out
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