Buying a used 4.2/4.5

Buying a used 4.2/4.5

Author
Discussion

nelly

Original Poster:

40 posts

263 months

Thursday 20th June 2002
quotequote all
I am just about to Purchase a used Cerbera, (probably privately), can't decide on 4.2 or 4.5. All I keep hearing is that the early 4.2's can be full of problems.

Can anyone point me in some direction as to any hot problems that I may be able to spot on initial inspection/test drive.

Any help appreciated.

Neil


whatever

2,174 posts

271 months

Thursday 20th June 2002
quotequote all
quote:
I am just about to Purchase a used Cerbera, (probably privately), can't decide on 4.2 or 4.5. All I keep hearing is that the early 4.2's can be full of problems.

Can anyone point me in some direction as to any hot problems that I may be able to spot on initial inspection/test drive.

Any help appreciated.

Neil





Blimey, there plenty of stuff if you look back at the history of this particular forum.

Early 4.2s did have several problems, though by now they would probably be pretty good as many of the mods will have been applied (but check!) and many of the resulting faults rectified. Development has continued though all models but 98R seems to be a bit of a watershed, though. Power differences between the same model can be larger than those between models, so there's not much to pick up to about 130ish (so I'm told)

The most important thing is too look at a few before comitting -- the differences between them can be startling. Try and get one with air con, too. The heat-soak can be quite bad at times and much worse in teh summer (obviously).

Whatever you do, make sure that you get it inspected by someone who knows their stuff -- not the AA/RAC. A big bunch of bills may reassure, too (but not too big!). And don't take a full dealer history to mean there's no faults lurking.

I see that you're in Hampshire -- if you can make it why not visit the Vernham Dean fete in a couple of weeks time (details in "Events & Meetings"). If you turn-up some time on the day, I'm sure someone will talk to you about Cerbies (well, I will) and you get to enjoy the fete, too.

Alternatively, try the Hants or Berks tvr car club meet (local TVR specialist Steve Howard (ThamesValleyRacetech) attends the Berks meetings, dunno about the Hants ones).



>> Edited by whatever on Thursday 20th June 15:36

whatever

2,174 posts

271 months

Thursday 20th June 2002
quotequote all
Just some initial points, though. They all sound like a bag of nails when cold, but settle down nicely when warm. As a consequence, don't rev it too much (I stay below 3k rpm) until the oil is warm (it lags the coolant temp by a fair way).

The oil pressure should come up nice and quick after starting and is generally about 50psi after starting (though there is some variance). It should drop later when fully warm by about 10psi or so. It will rise with revs but should otherwise be constant (notwithstanding the above).

Check for evidence of leaks in the passenger footwells and see if the control box build dates match the car date (they're on the fuel tank in the boot behind the carpet flap. This may tell you if the electrics have had a history. Simple things like check all the steering wheel functions (as the ribbon cable can tear) and other controls.

Normal driving test stuff applies -- listen for odd noises coming from rear (though exhaust tapping on chassis is not uncommon). Oh, and odd noises from the front

>> Edited by whatever on Thursday 20th June 15:34

Jak

121 posts

269 months

Friday 21st June 2002
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I bought mine privately - The previous owner had it for 4 months/3000 miles and I inherited an 8 month warranty which was transferred over. Everything appeared fine - I even spoke to the TVR dealer that sold the car.

Everything was fine - it drove well and I got a good price, however I wish I had paid for an inspection as I got stung for about £1,500 when I took it in a month later. Most of it general wear and tear, but really should have been done when sold by the dealer previously. - But worse of all it had the wrong front dampers on and they were bending the wishbone, which in turn was wearing the inside of the tyres.
I could have negotiated the price down if I had got a TVR dealer to inspect the car. I reckon £50 would have covered it.

However all-in-all the price I paid plus the repair bill was still cheaper than dealer price would have been and I got 8 months warranty.

olly

2,174 posts

285 months

Friday 21st June 2002
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We bit the bullet & bought out very late 97 car (R-reg) from a dealer, and paid about 3K because of buying through a dealer. However, the plus point of buying through a dealer, is you'll get 12 months warranty, and if something goes wrong, or your not happy with it, you can take it back & they should fix it...

Generally speaking, I'd say the cleaner the car, the better it's been looked after, and this will probably be the same on the mechanical side.

Mileage isn't usually a problem, and if anything, the more often the car is used, the less problems it should have.

Joolz of www.joospeed.net offers an inspection service, and comes HIGHLY recomended (see the Yahoo Cerbera list).

Good luck !

Ston

630 posts

270 months

Friday 21st June 2002
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a car 3 months old with 3000 miles on the clock that brakes hasn't broken because of normal 'wear and tear'. You should have had the 1500 pounds paid out on warranty.