RR P38 EAS Help Needed
RR P38 EAS Help Needed
Author
Discussion

Noble P4

Original Poster:

232 posts

165 months

Thursday 27th December 2012
quotequote all
Hi, Please redirect me if I'm asking about this in the wrong area but it will be a start.....our family have been running a 1996 4.6 RR hse for the past 10yrs as a tow car. 30K ago it had a new "crated" V8 and was converted to LPG. It still runs great but we now have a problem with the EAS in that we have the dreaded "35mph Max" warning on the dash and the suspension is down on it's stops. Whilst this may be a straightforward fix (dependant on the problem ie pump/bags and so on) we dont want to spend a fortune on diagnostics to find out it's to far gone and ready for the breakers. So, the question is are there any piston heads EAS experts in the Worcester area who can can give us some guidance?

Shame to scrap it as it's been a good servant that still looks the part and goes very well, thanks in advance. Chris.

camel_landy

5,417 posts

207 months

Thursday 27th December 2012
quotequote all
If it's across the board & all 4x corners are affected, I'd suggest looking in the area of the pump and valve block assy.

Simple start... Can you hear the pump when you start the car?

Check fuses, etc...

M

Noble P4

Original Poster:

232 posts

165 months

Friday 28th December 2012
quotequote all
Thanks for that...no pump sound on ignition but as its a hard fault I thought the electrical supply to the pump was cut automatically? All corners are down but wouldn't the whole system sink if just one bag is leaking or does it in theory run 4 separate systems ie one to each corner? Pls keep it coming, the learning curve on this one is still a bit steep! Thanks, Chris.

wolf1

3,091 posts

274 months

Friday 28th December 2012
quotequote all
The pumps have a habit of failing due to air leaks in the bags or air lines/joints etc requiring the pump tp run for way longer than it was designed to.

Normaly just the pump gets replaced and will fail again due to the air leaks not being located and repaired.

miniman

29,467 posts

286 months

Friday 28th December 2012
quotequote all

anonymous-user

78 months

Friday 28th December 2012
quotequote all
miniman said:
God no! That's one way to completely ruin the ride of a Range Rover!

Clousta

25 posts

180 months

Friday 28th December 2012
quotequote all
You have done well driving it for 10 years without any maintenance of the EAS.

look here:
http://www.rangerovers.net/
both on the main site and the P38 Forum for lost and lots of info on the EAS.

My approach would be to overhaul the valve block and compressor with a kit (typically £13 on eBay). then you will have a valve block and pump which is working correctly. Then inspect the air springs but anticipate replacing all four, either OEM to keep the costs down, or Arnotts (various variants) for improved ride and durability.

I would also invest in a diagnostic tool that can read and clear the EAs faults (I have an 'EAS kicker' but here are several products out there.

agent006

12,058 posts

288 months

Friday 28th December 2012
quotequote all
miniman said:
£250 ex vat plus fitting? You'd have to be mental. You could easily fix any EAS fault for less than that.

If you want a big thirsty thing on coils, buy a Shogun.

djtl

7 posts

219 months

Friday 28th December 2012
quotequote all
Just done mine. Get four air bags ( OE Dunlops about 60/bag ), try that first takes about 1/2 hr per bag, loads of info on the net on how to do it. You can buy a cable then download the free software (it's out there to be able to reset) you can reseal the block and change the air drier at a later date. Do the bags first or you will knacker the compressor trying to keep up with the leaks. A hard fault usually indicates a major leak - deal with that first.