What settings for Autosport International?
Discussion
Going to Autosport International on the 12th. I've got a Canon Eos 1100D with the standard 18-55 lens. I was wondering what settings people on here would recommend for an indoor, crowded environment in which it will mostly have to be used like a point and shoot.
Current settings are AV mode, ISO 400, F/5.6. What would you recommend?
Current settings are AV mode, ISO 400, F/5.6. What would you recommend?
I'd be amazed if you get through the day with the same settings because I'd expect lighting will differ from stand to stand.
A rough guide is to keep the shutter speed twice focal length - so if you are at 18mm keep the shutter above 1/40th. Some people say that should be twice the 35mm equivalent, which would mean 1/60th.
Either way keep the shutter high enough to avoid camera shake, open up aperture and/or increase ISO to cope.
Shoot in RAW because your white balance will be all over the place, easier to correct in PP later on.
A rough guide is to keep the shutter speed twice focal length - so if you are at 18mm keep the shutter above 1/40th. Some people say that should be twice the 35mm equivalent, which would mean 1/60th.
Either way keep the shutter high enough to avoid camera shake, open up aperture and/or increase ISO to cope.
Shoot in RAW because your white balance will be all over the place, easier to correct in PP later on.
y2blade said:
LukeSi said:
y2blade said:
See you there Luuuuuke.
You going on the Saturday then? I'll keep a look out for you. I'll probably be round the PH stand or the TVRCC stand a lot of the time.I'll see you long before you see me though
It will be good to say hello.
LukeSi said:
y2blade said:
LukeSi said:
y2blade said:
See you there Luuuuuke.
You going on the Saturday then? I'll keep a look out for you. I'll probably be round the PH stand or the TVRCC stand a lot of the time.I'll see you long before you see me though
It will be good to say hello.
Although my Winter beard (think: Grizzly Adams) might be gone by then.
Turn7 said:
If I know the NEC, then either shoot RAW or do a custom white balance as the overall lighting is very orange.
I don't think he's up to that yet. As a quick fix I'd go for aperture priority auto, max aperture, ISO 800-1000 to help make up for the slow lens, auto white balance, JPG, and a steady hand.LukeSi said:
I'm quite new to photography. Got the camera for Christmas. I take it if the shots start coming out poor then the safest thing to do is put it in full auto?
Erm, maybe.. maybe not. The reason I hesitate is sometimes full auto will not use max ISO, which might mean you struggle a bit. It'll also try and use the built in flash which isn't always desirable.I was just thinking if you are just taking snaps it might be easier to put it in shutter priority, set it to x2 focal length (i.e. between 1/40th and 1/125th) and increase ISO until you get the exposure, the camera should handle aperture for you.
That would be an unusual way to shoot I think, but would make it easy for you. The problem you'd face is no control over depth of field (google it).
The more conventional way would be to use aperture priority, select the aperture you want and then increase ISO until the shutter speed is fast enough to avoid camera shake (that makes the pictures blurry). This is a bit more complicated for you but does let you control the depth of field.
Have you got the jist of what changing aperture/shutter/ISO does ?
Learn how to use the exposure meter in the viewfinder and on the back of the camera.
Definitely shoot in RAW, aside from the white balance issue it means you can "save" some pictures if you don't get it right and do some noise reduction etc.
Shoot RAW as everyone else says, and take a tripod. Light at NEC is utterly appalling, and you'll be hitting low speeds for virtually everything.
The other big advantage of a tripod is that people tend to notice you a bit more and walk round the tripod and camera. Shooting handheld can be an absolute nightmare as people don't care if they walk in front of you. Most frustrating experience.
Also, take your time, have some _really_ comfortable shoes and dare I say some painkillers preloaded for the day. Frame your shots properly - eg wait till there are few people in the shot before hitting the shutter. If you like something, don't be rushed. Patience really pays off.
I would also suggest that when you frame the shot, after you framed the subject, have a look round the viewfinder for crap, eg things poking out of the top of a car, a bad reflection, ugly people, things that detract from the shot, etc.
Another suggestion is that cars that have leaflets on, or a fence in between you and the car, ask the stand owner if they can remove them, and if you can remove the rope. You will be surprised how many stand owners are MORE than happy to remove the clutter off a car so you can get a good shot.
Another hint with cars (if you don't do it already) is shoot about 18" lower than what you stand (eg the height if you were on one knee), and you get a much better perspective of cars. (Or so I've found).
Final suggestion, and this is a bit cheeky, buy yourself a yellow reflective bib (ideally that says MEDIA on the back), and wear it. You won't believe how much easier it is to get good shots and to get people to co-operate if they think you're official, and obviously, someone wearing a yellow bib must be important. If anyone asks - you work for a large online blog but aren't allowed to say which one, just ask for their card. Job done.
And if they have that grotty red carpet again, save your time, go home, and bang the wife
The other big advantage of a tripod is that people tend to notice you a bit more and walk round the tripod and camera. Shooting handheld can be an absolute nightmare as people don't care if they walk in front of you. Most frustrating experience.
Also, take your time, have some _really_ comfortable shoes and dare I say some painkillers preloaded for the day. Frame your shots properly - eg wait till there are few people in the shot before hitting the shutter. If you like something, don't be rushed. Patience really pays off.
I would also suggest that when you frame the shot, after you framed the subject, have a look round the viewfinder for crap, eg things poking out of the top of a car, a bad reflection, ugly people, things that detract from the shot, etc.
Another suggestion is that cars that have leaflets on, or a fence in between you and the car, ask the stand owner if they can remove them, and if you can remove the rope. You will be surprised how many stand owners are MORE than happy to remove the clutter off a car so you can get a good shot.
Another hint with cars (if you don't do it already) is shoot about 18" lower than what you stand (eg the height if you were on one knee), and you get a much better perspective of cars. (Or so I've found).
Final suggestion, and this is a bit cheeky, buy yourself a yellow reflective bib (ideally that says MEDIA on the back), and wear it. You won't believe how much easier it is to get good shots and to get people to co-operate if they think you're official, and obviously, someone wearing a yellow bib must be important. If anyone asks - you work for a large online blog but aren't allowed to say which one, just ask for their card. Job done.
And if they have that grotty red carpet again, save your time, go home, and bang the wife
LukeSi said:
Current settings are AV mode, ISO 400, F/5.6. What would you recommend?
With a tripod I'd be setting Av, ISO100, F22. You can also set the self timer, hit the shutter, stand back, and let the camera take the photograph and you'll have no shake from pressing the button.Handheld, if you have IS on the kit lens (I think you do), then Tv, 1/10th and AutoISO. If you don't have IS on the lens, and don't have Parkinsons then 1/20th.
The rule of thumb (non IS) is your focal length number matches the shutter speed, so 20mm is 1/20, 50mm is 1/50. With IS you can halve that number, so 1/50 becomes 1/25.
Be very careful about setting lower than those speeds - what can look good on a screen can be appalling when you review on a computer screen. When you review the photographs after taking them, zoom right in, have a good look for a blur from shake.
andy-xr said:
For that kind of thing I stick it on Auto No Flash or Aperture Priority if I want to do something in particular, Auto ISO, auto white balance. Point, shoot. The amount of yellow you'll see from the lights can be sorted out later, or you can set a white balance there and then
I was just about to say this."Auto no flash" or "Program Auto" is probably the best settings for you at this stage! At least with Program you can be assured that the camera will take care of everything to get a half decent shot, but you can also ensure that you have control over ISO, white balance and even minimum shutter speed Vs ISO settings if your camera has that feature?
I use a Nikon and in the menu you can set a minimum shutter speed at which the camera won't go below, and will adjust the ISO etc to compensate which I find really useful with certain lenses to avoid blur when shooting handheld in lower lights. You can rescue a noisy photo but not a blurry one!
I dont see the point at all in 'Aperture Priority' when shooting with a kit lens... Yes if you are at exactly 18mm you will have a choice between F3.5 and up, but as soon as you touch the zoom ring the aperture is out of your control really as it speeds towards F5.6 or whatever!
Yes if you have a 35mm F 1.8 or something, then go wild in Aperture priority, but I think it's a bit pointless in lower lights for kit lenses. Works the other way of course if you want to stop DOWN to F6-8 or whatever whilst on a tripod to get good depth in but thats about it...
Edited by NinjaPower on Sunday 30th December 11:23
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