Arrrg! Clutch problem, please help!
Discussion
Just tried moving the car to the winter storage and can't get the gear box to engage whilst the engine is running.
I can get it into reverse and then start the engine and move little, but can't get it into any forward gears with it running.
Anybody know what this might be? Clutch, or cable?
Please let it be cable
I can get it into reverse and then start the engine and move little, but can't get it into any forward gears with it running.
Anybody know what this might be? Clutch, or cable?
Please let it be cable
Trevor
There are no cables sounds like master clyinder or slave cylinder seals check master cylinder first its under the black cap under bonnet drivers side if fluid is low and you top it up and it goes in gear you be lucky and just low fluid if you top it up and the fluid just keeps droping then feel around the master cylinder if you feel fliud then its the master clyinder if not its the slave seals and its a gearbox out job, good luck
There are no cables sounds like master clyinder or slave cylinder seals check master cylinder first its under the black cap under bonnet drivers side if fluid is low and you top it up and it goes in gear you be lucky and just low fluid if you top it up and the fluid just keeps droping then feel around the master cylinder if you feel fliud then its the master clyinder if not its the slave seals and its a gearbox out job, good luck
Flush the clutch hydraulics with AP Racing Blue - that will make it very easy for you to locate the leak, as well as allow you to use the car for a week or two. Chances are it's the slave seals, which only cost £30 - however it's nightmare replacing them on a V8 (I think it may be somewhat easier on a SpeedSix).
Trevor
I have had my cerb 14 years so trust me if it is slave seals don't feck about and just replace the seals replace the slave cylinder as it will be scored and while you have gearbox out check the fingers on the presure plate as no doubt they will be worn and need replacing and if they are get the clutch completley renewed as most of the cost is labour
I have had my cerb 14 years so trust me if it is slave seals don't feck about and just replace the seals replace the slave cylinder as it will be scored and while you have gearbox out check the fingers on the presure plate as no doubt they will be worn and need replacing and if they are get the clutch completley renewed as most of the cost is labour
billy no brakes said:
most of the cost is labour
In twelve months I pulled the gearbox three times:For engine work
To replace clutch seals
To renew clutch
The third time I fitted a RaceProved Slave as well as a new Clutch Pack - parts cost alone is £850+
However it is such as laborious job (that required help from friends) that it seemed foolish not to fit the RP Slave if there were any chance that it would be more reliable than the original slave, even so it's a significant additional cost (for me).
Oh dear, sounds like the slave cylinder then.
Thanks for all the advice, I will let you know how I get on tomorrow when I try some new fluid.
I will also check if any fluid has made its way into the footwell, thanks C3BER.
I do have a workshop and access to most tools, including a lift, but can you get the box out without removing the engine?
Thanks for all the advice, I will let you know how I get on tomorrow when I try some new fluid.
I will also check if any fluid has made its way into the footwell, thanks C3BER.
I do have a workshop and access to most tools, including a lift, but can you get the box out without removing the engine?
http://www.thetvrsite.com/cerbera/how-to-replace-t...
4.5 manifolds give much less clearance than 4.2, therefore I drop the manifolds when removing the gearbox. You should be luckier and be able to follow the guide above instead.
4.5 manifolds give much less clearance than 4.2, therefore I drop the manifolds when removing the gearbox. You should be luckier and be able to follow the guide above instead.
1.Try bleeding the clutch
2.If you cannot bleed it then the clutch master seals have gone....replace master cylinder,you could also find clutch fluid in the drivers side footwell.
3.Check for fluid under the car..if you find this then the slave cylinder seals have gone,this is a gearbox out and bellhousing off job,replace seals,all cylinder components,clutch(if worn) and check flywheel for scoring.
Good Luck!
Regards
Al.
2.If you cannot bleed it then the clutch master seals have gone....replace master cylinder,you could also find clutch fluid in the drivers side footwell.
3.Check for fluid under the car..if you find this then the slave cylinder seals have gone,this is a gearbox out and bellhousing off job,replace seals,all cylinder components,clutch(if worn) and check flywheel for scoring.
Good Luck!
Regards
Al.
Wotcha Mate,
I have had many problems detecting the leak source so my suggestion is
Check level in Master reservoir….
If below level then top up and see if the liquid is retained.
If not
then
order new Master Seals from here
If that doesn’t work then, as peeps have suggested, it will require slave inspection.
The job is logical and, with your garage, easy to do
You can get the seals from here
BUT
If you’re gonna get all the gubbins out then I would recommend replacing the Slave Cylinder completely with The Raceprooved unit.
Clutch Fingers break. It’s a fact.
When they break will be determined by usage and adjustment so, depending on how many miles your current clutch has done, you will know whether to get a new clutch pack ( I would check latest supplier prices as they varied a lot when I was looking). If you decide to go this far don’t forget to sort yourself out with a centering tool if you don’t already have one (Don’t forget that it’s a double friction plate).
…. and a Happy New Year
I have had many problems detecting the leak source so my suggestion is
Check level in Master reservoir….
If below level then top up and see if the liquid is retained.
If not
then
order new Master Seals from here
If that doesn’t work then, as peeps have suggested, it will require slave inspection.
The job is logical and, with your garage, easy to do
You can get the seals from here
BUT
If you’re gonna get all the gubbins out then I would recommend replacing the Slave Cylinder completely with The Raceprooved unit.
Clutch Fingers break. It’s a fact.
When they break will be determined by usage and adjustment so, depending on how many miles your current clutch has done, you will know whether to get a new clutch pack ( I would check latest supplier prices as they varied a lot when I was looking). If you decide to go this far don’t forget to sort yourself out with a centering tool if you don’t already have one (Don’t forget that it’s a double friction plate).
…. and a Happy New Year
Thanks again guys, all this is very useful stuff.
I haven't had a chance to have a look today as its been wet all day. Forecast says dry tomorrow, so I am going to try some new fluid and a bleed of the system. Fingers crossed.
I've got to get it off the road and down my unit, as I can't put it back on my drive as it slops down rather steeply.
If I do have to take the gearbox off, its a 4.2 so no need to worry about the manifolds; although I do have the ACT replacements.
The clutch wasn't done that long ago so hopefully won't need replacing.
Billy, my email is trevor@polycam.tv
Wish me luck.
Trev.
I haven't had a chance to have a look today as its been wet all day. Forecast says dry tomorrow, so I am going to try some new fluid and a bleed of the system. Fingers crossed.
I've got to get it off the road and down my unit, as I can't put it back on my drive as it slops down rather steeply.
If I do have to take the gearbox off, its a 4.2 so no need to worry about the manifolds; although I do have the ACT replacements.
The clutch wasn't done that long ago so hopefully won't need replacing.
Billy, my email is trevor@polycam.tv
Wish me luck.
Trev.
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