Kawasaki ZXR 750K1
Discussion
Hello everyone
Hope someone may be able to offer me some advice.
I purchased the above bike new in 1991 and in 10 years only did 5000 odd miles on it. In the last 11 years the bike has not been used and garaged as I have been living and working overseas. I have now returned to the UK and want to dispose of the bike but need an MOT to be able to transfer a cherished # plate to a new vehicle.
I imagine the flat slide carbs are going to have to stripped and cleaned, but more worrying is I cannot turn the engine over by revolving the wheel "bike is on paddock stand" even in 6th gear! but I did not force it too much. Is it likely that piston rings have rusted solid in the bores after all this time, as at least one of the cylinders must have had its valves open to atmosphere. All the metal parts on the bike appear free of corrosion so it would seem not too much damp air in the garage. I don't really want to spend a lot of money on a full engine strip just to get a MOT, so just wondered if this is a common condition for an engine that's not been used for so long.
Any advice appreciated
Hope someone may be able to offer me some advice.
I purchased the above bike new in 1991 and in 10 years only did 5000 odd miles on it. In the last 11 years the bike has not been used and garaged as I have been living and working overseas. I have now returned to the UK and want to dispose of the bike but need an MOT to be able to transfer a cherished # plate to a new vehicle.
I imagine the flat slide carbs are going to have to stripped and cleaned, but more worrying is I cannot turn the engine over by revolving the wheel "bike is on paddock stand" even in 6th gear! but I did not force it too much. Is it likely that piston rings have rusted solid in the bores after all this time, as at least one of the cylinders must have had its valves open to atmosphere. All the metal parts on the bike appear free of corrosion so it would seem not too much damp air in the garage. I don't really want to spend a lot of money on a full engine strip just to get a MOT, so just wondered if this is a common condition for an engine that's not been used for so long.
Any advice appreciated
I think the best thing to do, is sell the bike to me, with a promisary note that when I restore it and get it road worthy with MoT, I'll transfer the plate back to you free of charge. Solicitors can draw these up pretty quickly and cheaply.
PM me if interested - I'm in Sevenoaks, Kent
PM me if interested - I'm in Sevenoaks, Kent

Genuinely been looking for the right K1 or M model for a few years that isn't ridiculously priced or a complete unoriginal s
tter. Bought a 996S Ducati in the end as got bored waiting.
If it's fairly original with original and non-knackered plastics, I am interested and have a trailer - like I said, I'm sure a legal agreement of somesort can be knocked up to cover plate ownership retention returning to you.
tter. Bought a 996S Ducati in the end as got bored waiting. If it's fairly original with original and non-knackered plastics, I am interested and have a trailer - like I said, I'm sure a legal agreement of somesort can be knocked up to cover plate ownership retention returning to you.
Not sure if serious or its actually just an advert?
Flat slides don't suffer from gumming up as much as CV carbs so I'd be tempted in your position to buy a new battery / fresh fuel and turn it over / start it up with the no more than the normal arse ache of flatties.
Turning the engine over using back wheel in 6th gear presumably with plugs still in is always going to be hard work! Why 6th by the way? Least "powerful" gear (in thrust terms) when the engine driving rear wheel surely same when trying to reverse the effect I would have thought.
Flat slides don't suffer from gumming up as much as CV carbs so I'd be tempted in your position to buy a new battery / fresh fuel and turn it over / start it up with the no more than the normal arse ache of flatties.
Turning the engine over using back wheel in 6th gear presumably with plugs still in is always going to be hard work! Why 6th by the way? Least "powerful" gear (in thrust terms) when the engine driving rear wheel surely same when trying to reverse the effect I would have thought.
Jacey said:
Hi Moto Traxport
Not sure if serious or its actually just an advert?
I can assure you its no advert!
I did try turning it over in the lower gears as well with no success, and remember bump starting my old Norton twins many years ago was a lot easier in a higher gear than 1st.
No worries, was just wondering. Be prepared for sweaty enquiries from early 40's types wearing rose tinted specs.Not sure if serious or its actually just an advert?
I can assure you its no advert!
I did try turning it over in the lower gears as well with no success, and remember bump starting my old Norton twins many years ago was a lot easier in a higher gear than 1st.
"Barely used one owner ZXR750K1 I just must get rid of" is a bit like "full hamper of white truffles I keep tripping over"!!
If you're not prepared to get it going yourself I would ask a trusted local bike shop to do it and get it an MoT. Whereabouts are you?
If you're being picky and reading between the lines some folk believe you don't need to run the engine during a bike MoT (although Lord knows how you'd establish whether the exhaust is / is not too loud I'm not too sure!). This would get the 'plate off the bike but a non running bike would be harder to sell I'm thinking so a false economy.
ETA - Just clicked on your profile and saw West Sussex. Try someone like Steve Jordan motorcycles as they are a dyno centre (and therefore experienced at carb work) as well as a bike shop with normal MoT type facilities.
Edited by moto_traxport on Thursday 3rd January 21:28
moto_traxport said:
Jacey said:
Hi Moto Traxport
Not sure if serious or its actually just an advert?
I can assure you its no advert!
I did try turning it over in the lower gears as well with no success, and remember bump starting my old Norton twins many years ago was a lot easier in a higher gear than 1st.
No worries, was just wondering. Be prepared for sweaty enquiries from early 40's types wearing rose tinted specs.Not sure if serious or its actually just an advert?
I can assure you its no advert!
I did try turning it over in the lower gears as well with no success, and remember bump starting my old Norton twins many years ago was a lot easier in a higher gear than 1st.
"Barely used one owner ZXR750K1 I just must get rid of" is a bit like "full hamper of white truffles I keep tripping over"!!
If you're not prepared to get it going yourself I would ask a trusted local bike shop to do it and get it an MoT. Whereabouts are you?
If you're being picky and reading between the lines some folk believe you don't need to run the engine during a bike MoT (although Lord knows how you'd establish whether the exhaust is / is not too loud I'm not too sure!). This would get the 'plate off the bike but a non running bike would be harder to sell I'm thinking so a false economy.
ETA - Just clicked on your profile and saw West Sussex. Try someone like Steve Jordan motorcycles as they are a dyno centre (and therefore experienced at carb work) as well as a bike shop with normal MoT type facilities.
Edited by moto_traxport on Thursday 3rd January 21:28

Engine needs to run on MoT - exhaust volume and blows and to check for excessive smoke. As long as you can get it ticking over, then that's enough. Trailer it there and back. After 11 years laid up, that could be a challenge though!
Sparkplugs out and drizzle oil down the bores a good idea. Once the oil has had some time to work it's magic I'd also whip off the right fairing lower, take off the pickup coil cover and get a spanner/socket on the end of the crank. The direct action will make it easier to be 'sensitive', with a non seized engine it doesn't take much effort to turn with plugs out.
Carbs - You'll want to drop the float bowls off at the very least. One issue I had with my K1 was the carb to airbox rubbers had gone very hard and wouldn't reseat. Ended up tracking down new ones which was tricky as the outer 2 are no longer available from Kawasaki so took a few months. However this month's Practical Sportbikes has an article about how to re-soften carb rubbers.
Carbs - You'll want to drop the float bowls off at the very least. One issue I had with my K1 was the carb to airbox rubbers had gone very hard and wouldn't reseat. Ended up tracking down new ones which was tricky as the outer 2 are no longer available from Kawasaki so took a few months. However this month's Practical Sportbikes has an article about how to re-soften carb rubbers.
Hello Julian
Well I never, you are quite right Richard Morgan sent me the details of the sale late this pm. I am told that my beloved is going, rather gone to a good home. I will miss her very much but I have not got the time to give her the attention that a bike of this era needs.
You are most welcome to contact me if you want to on my email john.cilia@aol.com or cell 07831 247337 I don't participate in piston heads much these days but the email link is obviously still working.
Take care of her and of yourself
Kind regards
John Cilia
Well I never, you are quite right Richard Morgan sent me the details of the sale late this pm. I am told that my beloved is going, rather gone to a good home. I will miss her very much but I have not got the time to give her the attention that a bike of this era needs.
You are most welcome to contact me if you want to on my email john.cilia@aol.com or cell 07831 247337 I don't participate in piston heads much these days but the email link is obviously still working.
Take care of her and of yourself
Kind regards
John Cilia
Hi John,
I'm sorry I have not replied earlier I was looking at the wrong forum!! I do have questions that I'm sure you will be able to answer. I will email as a start point and call you when convenient for you. Many thanks for replying to me. I will add some pictures to the site as things progress with the clean up.
I'm sorry I have not replied earlier I was looking at the wrong forum!! I do have questions that I'm sure you will be able to answer. I will email as a start point and call you when convenient for you. Many thanks for replying to me. I will add some pictures to the site as things progress with the clean up.
Hi John,
I'm sorry I have not replied earlier I was looking at the wrong forum!! I do have questions that I'm sure you will be able to answer. I will email as a start point and call you when convenient for you. Many thanks for replying to me. I will add some pictures to the site as things progress with the clean up.
I'm sorry I have not replied earlier I was looking at the wrong forum!! I do have questions that I'm sure you will be able to answer. I will email as a start point and call you when convenient for you. Many thanks for replying to me. I will add some pictures to the site as things progress with the clean up.
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