Training to the whistle

[AtticusFinch]

Hi I've Terrier pup, sometimes selectively deaf (although getting a lot better over the last few weeks). I've just purchased an ACME whistle and want to train him for recall. Is this the same as everthing else? i.e. a treat whenever he comes to it.

[pikeyboy]

AtticusFinch said:

Hi I've Terrier pup, sometimes selectively deaf (although getting a lot better over the last few weeks). I've just purchased an ACME whistle and want to train him for recall. Is this the same as everthing else? i.e. a treat whenever he comes to it.

Yep pretty much. I tend to use the recall command when they are running towards you so they associate it with coming to you. Ie run off get them to chase you when coming shout come then I use double toots for recall. Good luck and your along the right lines but a whistle will onlyy mask an angry voice when it has a deaf moment and wont actually make them recall better only practice does that.

[AtticusFinch]

Great, he's fine but if over 100m away or having some rough & tumble with another dog dosn't always "decide" to hear. So have been very carefull about how far he can go before calling him back.

[condor]

The problem with a whistle is that if a few owners are walking their dogs in park land or similar then the sharpness of the whistle ruins the tranquility.
Presumably if another whistle trained dog is around would confuse them as well?

I find using the dog's name the most effective.

[pikeyboy]

condor said:

The problem with a whistle is that if a few owners are walking their dogs in park land or similar then the sharpness of the whistle ruins the tranquility.
Presumably if another whistle trained dog is around would confuse them as well?

I find using the dog's name the most effective.

So shouting come rover doesn't ruin the tranquility of the country side, but whistles do. Lol. Reason whistles are used for working dogs is because the human voice scares off the prey. However as I said a solid basic recall is essential to both verbal come and then the whistle can be phased in.

I tend to find my dogs show an interest in other whistles but respond to mine.

I would suggest the op starts by keeping the dog closer and not asking it to do things he can't enforce or correct. A long line say 30 meters and plenty of practice will work wonders.

[AtticusFinch]

boy said:

condor said:

The problem with a whistle is that if a few owners are walking their dogs in park land or similar then the sharpness of the whistle ruins the tranquility.
Presumably if another whistle trained dog is around would confuse them as well?

I find using the dog's name the most effective.

So shouting come rover doesn't ruin the tranquility of the country side, but whistles do. Lol. Reason whistles are used for working dogs is because the human voice scares off the prey. However as I said a solid basic recall is essential to both verbal come and then the whistle can be phased in.

I tend to find my dogs show an interest in other whistles but respond to mine.

I would suggest the op starts by keeping the dog closer and not asking it to do things he can't enforce or correct. A long line say 30 meters and plenty of practice will work wonders.

Thanks, it's more to attract his attention as much as anything else. he comes to his name but when he see's an outstrectched arm with a treat or a ball in the air he comes back at the double. If he's playing hard with another dog he dosn't always pay attention. (sometimes both come to me though)

[condor]

I was talking about my experience walking Woody who recalls with his name.

There is a nuisance, loosely termed 'dog trainer' that blows his whistle, and it's so piercing you can hear it for miles around. The regular dog walkers all complain about his incessant whistle noise and all try to walk their dogs when he's not around.

I'd suggest enrolling in puppy training classes and teaching him to respond to voice commands.

[shambolic]

I use a 211 1/2 whistle for recall and an acme thunderer for stop and sit. Started both dogs t 6 weeks using their food by holding then in to heel then letting them go to food with "on" command.
The stop sit command was done by hand and voice and adding whistle over time. Works great even on a shoot where others use the same frequency of whistles etc, the dog seems to know your whistle nuances!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BK7hdep0F0&fea...

This is a video where dogs were brought to heel up back garden made to sit then recalled to food and made to sit before the "on" command to eat first by hand gesture which the older dog doesn't like as he was more used to a firm "get on" now both work ok

Edited by shambolic on Friday 4th January 16:44

[pikeyboy]

Op the best way to ensure he pays attention is to not let him get into situations like playing with other dogs. As an a side I don't often see other people when out with my three but always call them in and put them on the lead as I dont want them playing with other dogs. Also if your pups a fox terrier I doubt you should allow it play fight as when it's older it could inflict some injury on another dog.

Edited by boy on Friday 4th January 18:01

[condor]

On the contrary - I think the pup should learn to socialise with other dogs...that's the way to have a well adjusted dog.

Perhaps there is a query here as to whether the OP is after a pet or a proper working dog?

[AtticusFinch]

Hi both thanks for your comments

Terrier mix rescue dog, most definately a pet.

I let him play where appropriate and keep a close eye calling him away from out of control situations or when too far for my voice to carry against the wind. Training is coming along really well and recal is pretty good. The whistle idea is for when he is totally distracted (doesn't happen very often) to get him to pay attention. I walk in a mix of farm land with a few other dog walkers and the park (full of dogs). I encorage him to play and socialise, nothing bad has happened, if another dog does not want to play he will ignore it. When a young dog or pup does want to play he will go for it (hours with a friends pointer)If the other dog runs away (in play) he will follow. Okay if close enough for me to get his attention but if at 100m say, my voice dosen't carry (or isn't heard in the excitment)

I dont intend to disturb the peace. Just a sharp short toot where necessary.

I saw another owner (also terrier) call their dog from maybe 150m when they were playing with mine and thought what a good idea.

[therealpigdog]

I'm afraid I disagree with Condor - you shouldn't allow the playing with other dogs until the recall is fully sorted. When you see other dogs, keep him at heel or on a lead.

Well socialised dogs are the ones who don't need to strain at the lead to play with or fight other dogs.

Whistle, voice and hand signals - all effective in their own way. Just make sure that you (and anyone else who walks him) are consistent.

[condor]

That's the whole point of a discussion forum.

If I really need to attract Woody's attention I'll clap my hands which makes a distinct short, sharp noise. It's very rarely needed as he's a good lad, and gets on well with all the regular and strange dogs that walk of a morning herabouts.

[therealpigdog]

condor said:

That's the whole point of a discussion forum.

Absolutely.

He looks like a lot of fun.

[Smiler.]

condor said:

.....I find using the dog's name the most effective.

BENTON!!

[C3BER]

I use three peeps for recall.

Train close when young and only whistle three peeps once per recall or you will teach your dog to go deaf.

Your dog will not know to recall on the first set of three peeps or the third or forth if you keep peeping. You can peep again once you see your dog is coming and as a distraction from your dog looking at anything but you as it comes back.

You must get your recall perfect so keep it short and keep doing it.

[Gargamel]

same here three shirt pips for recall.

When I was train my lab, I would shut her in the furthest room, put the bowl down, then ideally get someone else to open the door, and blow three pips for recall.

Also right at the start of the walk, do it two to three times in the first hundred yard or so, so the dog gets the idea. With treats.

Practice, practice.

Good luck.

[C3BER]

The reason the whistle is used is to keep the tone the same. Dogs are very sensitive to tone and a frustrated name recall is not recognised the same as a friendly name recall.

You can over whistle a dog but that's a whole new topic.

So OP keep your recalls short and sweet and keep your dog on a lead in the pub whilst your socialising.

[therealpigdog]

Pub training - very important to keep this up.

[C3BER]

Extremely vital training and the best excuse for dog socialising I can think of.

Next best tip is calmness....and calmness when it's your round at the bar.