Cerb Re commissioning

[wilfandrowlf]

Hi All

I have been asked by a friend to help get his Cerb back on the road after 2 years laid up in a garage.
My first thoughts were removing the plugs and squirting a small amount of oil down each bore, then removing the fuel pump fuse and spinning it over, by hand at first, then on the starter motor to build up oil pressure.
I'll obviously check (possibly change) the oil first, put in fresh fuel, and ensure the battery is fully charged or replaced with a new one.
Can anybody suggest what else is top of the list to check please?

I guess it should include:
. Power steering fluid level
. Clutch fluid level
. Brake fluid level (not sure how rusty the discs will be as I haven't seen the car yet)
. Radiator water level
. Tyre pressures (assuming they haven't "flat spotted"!)
. Gearbox oil/diff level

As far as I know the car was driven in to the garage and simply left, with out any long term preparation so I not sure quite what I will find!

I have a Chim and so have a good knowledge of TVR's but not the AJP motor as used in the Cerb.

Many thanks;)

[anonymous-user]

wilfandrowlf said:

Hi All

I have been asked by a friend to help get his Cerb back on the road after 2 years laid up in a garage.
My first thoughts were removing the plugs and squirting a small amount of oil down each bore, then removing the fuel pump fuse and spinning it over, by hand at first, then on the starter motor to build up oil pressure.
I'll obviously check (possibly change) the oil first, put in fresh fuel, and ensure the battery is fully charged or replaced with a new one.
Can anybody suggest what else is top of the list to check please?

I guess it should include:
. Power steering fluid level
. Clutch fluid level
. Brake fluid level (not sure how rusty the discs will be as I haven't seen the car yet)
. Radiator water level
. Tyre pressures (assuming they haven't "flat spotted"!)
. Gearbox oil/diff level

As far as I know the car was driven in to the garage and simply left, with out any long term preparation so I not sure quite what I will find!

I have a Chim and so have a good knowledge of TVR's but not the AJP motor as used in the Cerb.

Many thanks;)

Give APM a call in he morning and seek some good advice from the AJP expert.

Im not sure cranking it over on the starter to build the oil pressure is such a good idea. APM has my engine in bits and in conversation with Andy, when it come to recommissioning, he said that was exactly what not to do before the first start!!

Something about the crank throw wouldn't be sufficient on turn over to lubricate the bores before it fires.

Andy recommended an oil primer pump to build pressure before turning it over, but Im not 100% sure how they work yet!

As my engine rebuild turned into a full nut and bolt chassis rebuild, I asked Andy about rebuilding my engine, but me storing it until my chassis is repaired, he mentioned that unless the engine is turned over whilst it sat in storage, it could deform the valve springs as some would be set in the compressed position for a long time. I was only thinking 4 months, if this car hasn't been touched in 2 years, Id be concerned about them too.

Id also be checking all the brake, fuel and oil lines before starting or moving it anywhere too!

Im sure more informed minds will be along shortly!!

[andrewlloyd]

My cerbera was stood for 6yrs and the engine started up on second attemped its everything around the engine that will be the issue

[Cerbieherts]

I've recommissioned a few over the years that have been stood for a very long time, with no issue whatsoever with the valve springs. As above, its all the other stuff, bad fuel, rotten fuel lines, siezed clutch that is usually the problem.Id agree with a few spots of oil/wd40 down the plug holes, letting it soak for a bit and turning by hand via the crank a few times before using the starter. I've left my Cerb stood garaged for 8 months before and it's strong as an ox.

[Keithyboy]

djstevec said:

. . . unless the engine is turned over whilst its sat in storage, it could deform the valve springs as some would be set in the compressed position for a long time. I was only thinking 4 months, if this car hasn't been touched in 2 years, Id be concerned about them too.

I suspect that MAY have been a contributory factor with the engine in my Tuscan race car which threw a bucket shim last season and lunched the engine - it had been unused for some considerable time before I bought it. They should be turned over regularly - even by hand if not in use . . .

[wilfandrowlf]

Many thanks for the advice. I guess I just need to take my time and see how it goes.