M/Taimar bumpers
Discussion
Some time ago I was responsible for the development and introduction of a process for polyurethane edging office desk tops. Silicone profile formers were used in wooden mould boxes, a cheap process. Each silicone former lasted 40 to 70 worktops.
It appears to me that bumpers could be produced using this process. I have an interest because mine are tatty. If anyone is interested in exploring this avenue I will be pleased to supply details and assistance.
It appears to me that bumpers could be produced using this process. I have an interest because mine are tatty. If anyone is interested in exploring this avenue I will be pleased to supply details and assistance.
pridaux said:
seems like a lot of work for just 2 bumpers
Interesting challenge, never made anything from f/g before.pridaux said:
when there are ones out there for very few Beer Tokens
Where ? How few?pridaux said:
I trust you haven't used the Sun or the mirror just the financial times
Blackpool Echo, want to keep car as original as possible 
I could go into a long been there looked at the making of heated moulds to produce bumpers (which I have and I say bumpers as they are handed), but IMHO where is the market? How do you get liability insurance to sell into the very market that they were produced for (the USA), the TVR market place has been without them for many years (people are happy to make their own (IE in this thread) fit S/S, cut up Triumph 2000 ones and weld and chrome, and buy into un-heated moulded versions (that are available already) then there are fibreglass ones that unless you touch them I defy anyone to know the difference.
The Vixen owner IMHO needs only to look at the story of the Vixen bumper, a simple alloy casting that in reality could be total lost cast copied in moments, (but all four corners are different, fettled to match each corner) and unless you have an OE un-molested set to copy AND the customer has the ability to fettle each one as they did in the factory... to my knowledge that was done once and those never sold once the price was revealed.
I would love to see them in the market place....in 35 years I could of sold 10 to people who would only have the rubber version.
Adrian@
The Vixen owner IMHO needs only to look at the story of the Vixen bumper, a simple alloy casting that in reality could be total lost cast copied in moments, (but all four corners are different, fettled to match each corner) and unless you have an OE un-molested set to copy AND the customer has the ability to fettle each one as they did in the factory... to my knowledge that was done once and those never sold once the price was revealed.
I would love to see them in the market place....in 35 years I could of sold 10 to people who would only have the rubber version.
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Friday 14th November 19:50
bluezeeland said:
No pressure, Mike, but show us the pics of the finished results !
Decided to slim them down a bit, this meant the front ones went too far back, towards the wheel arch, and overhung the moulding on the body so they also had to be shortened. Rears looked ok full length.I bonded some stainless M8 studding into them rather than nuts, then with a nut and "penny" washer either side of the bodywork adjustment is quite easy.
Probably not to everyone's taste but I like them
phillpot said:
Decided to slim them down a bit, this meant the front ones went too far back, towards the wheel arch, and overhung the moulding on the body so they also had to be shortened. Rears looked ok full length.
I bonded some stainless M8 studding into them rather than nuts, then with a nut and "penny" washer either side of the bodywork adjustment is quite easy.
Probably not to everyone's taste but I like them
As long as you like them thats all that matters..I bonded some stainless M8 studding into them rather than nuts, then with a nut and "penny" washer either side of the bodywork adjustment is quite easy.
Probably not to everyone's taste but I like them
N.
phillpot said:
bluezeeland said:
No pressure, Mike, but show us the pics of the finished results !
Decided to slim them down a bit, this meant the front ones went too far back, towards the wheel arch, and overhung the moulding on the body so they also had to be shortened. Rears looked ok full length.I bonded some stainless M8 studding into them rather than nuts, then with a nut and "penny" washer either side of the bodywork adjustment is quite easy.
Probably not to everyone's taste but I like them
Frank
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