Discussion
Managed to lift the body tonight - all went well the only thing that I forgot was the speedo sensor wire above the diff but it had been cut and rejoined at some point in the past so it just pulled itself free with no major damage.
Chassis isn't too bad considering it's 16 years old - it's a '96 silver and the only bad bits I could see are a couple small holes on the usual place on the front of the NS outrigger:
Also the rear of NS outrigger was able to be dented with a a spanner when hit which suggests it needs doing to!
I'll wait til it comes back from blasting and see but is it false economy to only replace 1 outrigger (NS in my case)?
Ryan
Chassis isn't too bad considering it's 16 years old - it's a '96 silver and the only bad bits I could see are a couple small holes on the usual place on the front of the NS outrigger:
Also the rear of NS outrigger was able to be dented with a a spanner when hit which suggests it needs doing to!
I'll wait til it comes back from blasting and see but is it false economy to only replace 1 outrigger (NS in my case)?
Ryan
Dr Mike Oxgreen said:
Having done all this work to get the body off, I think you'd be insane to only replace one outrigger. If the metal of the NS one is that thin, the other one won't be far behind. You don't want to be doing all this again in a couple of years. Do both outriggers now!
Thought so!Which leads me to my next question - does anyone know the inside and outside diameter of the pipes used in the outriggers?
Dr Mike Oxgreen said:
Having done all this work to get the body off, I think you'd be insane to only replace one outrigger. If the metal of the NS one is that thin, the other one won't be far behind. You don't want to be doing all this again in a couple of years. Do both outriggers now!
This 
jamienshelly said:
I pressume you are cleaning and painting chassis?, if so it would only seal the rot in, and as has been said before you don't want to lift the body again in a couple of years for the sake of replacing it now
The whole lot is getting blasted and coated and the rot will be cut away. Will def do both sides as otherwise like you say any metal which is less than good will get the rot sealed in.debaron said:
Dr Mike Oxgreen said:
Having done all this work to get the body off, I think you'd be insane to only replace one outrigger. If the metal of the NS one is that thin, the other one won't be far behind. You don't want to be doing all this again in a couple of years. Do both outriggers now!
Thought so!Which leads me to my next question - does anyone know the inside and outside diameter of the pipes used in the outriggers?
Tubing 1.5in 16 gauge brackets 3mm although I use 4 mm when rebuildingdebaron said:
EGB said:
Get new outriggers galvanised.
Can you get galvanised tubing off the shelf? Just thinking it would make sense to build repair sections out of galvy tube. Is it any different to weld? or does the weld then become a point of weakness to corrosion?
Have it blasted and coated by a professional outfit that does both.
After coating, drill and tap as many tubes as possible and spray internally with waxoil. Fit small stainless caphead screws with nylon washers after internal coating. The waxoil will escape in areas where the chassis gets hot as welds are not always fully closed, but it will be of huge benefit.
TVR_owner said:
Its horrible to weld too and some of the fumes are not the type most welders want to breath.
Have it blasted and coated by a professional outfit that does both.
After coating, drill and tap as many tubes as possible and spray internally with waxoil. Fit small stainless caphead screws with nylon washers after internal coating. The waxoil will escape in areas where the chassis gets hot as welds are not always fully closed, but it will be of huge benefit.
Good shout will do - thanks!Have it blasted and coated by a professional outfit that does both.
After coating, drill and tap as many tubes as possible and spray internally with waxoil. Fit small stainless caphead screws with nylon washers after internal coating. The waxoil will escape in areas where the chassis gets hot as welds are not always fully closed, but it will be of huge benefit.
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