Door card removal / Slow window
Discussion
Hi all,
My driver window is slow when winding down past about 1/2 way and usually needs assistance to get back up. (By that I mean that I have to pull it up whilst pushing the window switch initially then its OK past 1/2 way).
I had a quick investigate through the speaker hole when I first got the car. When i removed the multi plug it was full of water so I soaked that up with cue tips (cotton buds etc.) sprayed both ends with component cleaner and reconnected. This didn't make any noticable difference.
I've read the bible and it sounds like the most likely cause involves removing the door card and checking the window is i) in the runner and ii) the runner is correctly seated.
I'm still confused as to how to remove the door card though and also what I'm looking/checking for once I'm in there. It sounds like the card is held on with one screw and one bolt if I'm reading it right?
Can anyone confirm, assist or point me in the direction of any links with picture please?
Many thanks
Dave
My driver window is slow when winding down past about 1/2 way and usually needs assistance to get back up. (By that I mean that I have to pull it up whilst pushing the window switch initially then its OK past 1/2 way).
I had a quick investigate through the speaker hole when I first got the car. When i removed the multi plug it was full of water so I soaked that up with cue tips (cotton buds etc.) sprayed both ends with component cleaner and reconnected. This didn't make any noticable difference.
I've read the bible and it sounds like the most likely cause involves removing the door card and checking the window is i) in the runner and ii) the runner is correctly seated.
I'm still confused as to how to remove the door card though and also what I'm looking/checking for once I'm in there. It sounds like the card is held on with one screw and one bolt if I'm reading it right?
Can anyone confirm, assist or point me in the direction of any links with picture please?
Many thanks
Dave
This is fun. if you take the speaker off and put your arm inside there will be 3 10mm nuts holding the arm rest on. 1 either side of the speaker about 3 inhes in and the 3rd about8 inches from the speaker going towards the rear of the door. remove ashtray and there is a screw behind it. also one behind the reflector.
To get the padded part off you need to lift it outwards a bit and it should budge, try lifting near window also. the carpet part is held in by 3 or 4 hidden screws buried in the carpet, try a magnet if there masked.
You could do this to free up the window. loosen frame nuts in middle top and bottom not the front one and run wiondow up and down a few time to let it find its best position, then retighten. put a bit of silicone grease on the furry runners and make sure they are pushed in the track properly. all of theis is well fiddly and you will have battle scar on your forearm. Good luck any prrobs give us a shout.
>> Edited by zippy500 on Friday 21st June 13:13
To get the padded part off you need to lift it outwards a bit and it should budge, try lifting near window also. the carpet part is held in by 3 or 4 hidden screws buried in the carpet, try a magnet if there masked.
You could do this to free up the window. loosen frame nuts in middle top and bottom not the front one and run wiondow up and down a few time to let it find its best position, then retighten. put a bit of silicone grease on the furry runners and make sure they are pushed in the track properly. all of theis is well fiddly and you will have battle scar on your forearm. Good luck any prrobs give us a shout.
>> Edited by zippy500 on Friday 21st June 13:13
I use something called "Rolls silicon spray" which I got from John Lewis (the curtains dept.) I think they sell it to spray on swish curtain track or something, anyway I have used on all the convertibles we have had and it always makes the windows work better. Just spray the felt bit every 6 months or so... believe me it does work! Rich...
My father - a keen amateur cabinet maker - always swore by a silicon aerosol spray called Siliglide to get drawers, slidy things etc, going better. And it always seemed to work. As he was a dentist, it might have been designed for dental equipment, ie. available through the dental trade.
OK then in typical TVR fashion mine is completely different to the bible or the descrptions here.
It comes away in 2 parts the outer is held on with the 3 bolts at the rear which weren't too bad to remove and the screws on the relector.
The inner panel is held on with 2 x self tappers at the top. One behind the ash tray (which isn't glued and held in) and one at the lock end at the top.
Anyway I took it to pieces, sprayed the runners with silicon spray and tested the window and nothing at all. Just the click of the relay and no motor
I found a multiplug with a red wire and a white and purple wire but couldn't find anything to connect it to despite my best endeavours to find it in the door.
In the end I just opted for putting it back together and eventually to take it to Richard Thorpe Racing again for fixing.
Got it back together went for a drive and amazingly when I got back the window worked(!!)
These cars are bonkers
Anyone know what my disconnected multiplug/wires are and what they should do. Windows, Mirrors and lighter all seem to work.
Dave
It comes away in 2 parts the outer is held on with the 3 bolts at the rear which weren't too bad to remove and the screws on the relector.
The inner panel is held on with 2 x self tappers at the top. One behind the ash tray (which isn't glued and held in) and one at the lock end at the top.
Anyway I took it to pieces, sprayed the runners with silicon spray and tested the window and nothing at all. Just the click of the relay and no motor
I found a multiplug with a red wire and a white and purple wire but couldn't find anything to connect it to despite my best endeavours to find it in the door.
In the end I just opted for putting it back together and eventually to take it to Richard Thorpe Racing again for fixing.
Got it back together went for a drive and amazingly when I got back the window worked(!!)
These cars are bonkers
Anyone know what my disconnected multiplug/wires are and what they should do. Windows, Mirrors and lighter all seem to work.
Dave
Well. Getting that working is a right palava. Door panels come off as described, Bear in mind it might be worth being the son/daughter of a mythical wolf as the extra Wolf like elbow will help alot.
Own TVR=Double Jointed
The power plug into the top of the Window motor can suffer from water ingress and usually should be the first stop - even before fuses as the fix is actually easier than getting all the electrical gubbins out of the footwell.
1. Don't bother with the door cards, just remove the speaker, three/four crosshead screws secure it.
2. behind and to the right is the motor for the window. into the top go two wires one white and the other blue or purple depending on what colour socks the builder had on. The wires go into a small plug which can be easily removed by pulling upwards.
3. Remove plug and inspect (knowledgably if you are being watched by Kids/mates/partner)
4. spray WD40 into it alot.
5. get the little red pipe off the side of the WD40 if you are anal enough to have kept it and insert into the nozzle. (if you have lost the pipe then either make temporary fix from bendy straws which will invariably lead to you getting covered in oil or go to the petrol station and nick one while pretending not to look at readers wives) spray more into the place the plug came out of on the top of the motor which can only be reached by WD red pipe or using a collection of those bendy drinking straws.
6. Replace plug.
7. If it works feel jolly pleased with yourself, Buy smomething from the PH shop to thank Ted for running the site which saved you the inevitable £100 at the dealers to fix this piddling trifle.
OR 8. take it to the dealer, it is broke mate.

Own TVR=Double Jointed
The power plug into the top of the Window motor can suffer from water ingress and usually should be the first stop - even before fuses as the fix is actually easier than getting all the electrical gubbins out of the footwell.
1. Don't bother with the door cards, just remove the speaker, three/four crosshead screws secure it.
2. behind and to the right is the motor for the window. into the top go two wires one white and the other blue or purple depending on what colour socks the builder had on. The wires go into a small plug which can be easily removed by pulling upwards.
3. Remove plug and inspect (knowledgably if you are being watched by Kids/mates/partner)
4. spray WD40 into it alot.
5. get the little red pipe off the side of the WD40 if you are anal enough to have kept it and insert into the nozzle. (if you have lost the pipe then either make temporary fix from bendy straws which will invariably lead to you getting covered in oil or go to the petrol station and nick one while pretending not to look at readers wives) spray more into the place the plug came out of on the top of the motor which can only be reached by WD red pipe or using a collection of those bendy drinking straws.
6. Replace plug.
7. If it works feel jolly pleased with yourself, Buy smomething from the PH shop to thank Ted for running the site which saved you the inevitable £100 at the dealers to fix this piddling trifle.
OR 8. take it to the dealer, it is broke mate.

Nah!
I'm now learning with these cars a slow window is character
A Sh@gged engine is broken mate
Electrical niggles are too many to take to the garage. My last problems were started by the oil pressure guage playing up and reading 0.
When I got it back post service and tune it still was playing up as specialist couldn't source a sender quick enough. Its fixed itself now
Strange scary cars these things. Bl@@dy quick though
Dave
I'm now learning with these cars a slow window is character
A Sh@gged engine is broken mate
Electrical niggles are too many to take to the garage. My last problems were started by the oil pressure guage playing up and reading 0.
When I got it back post service and tune it still was playing up as specialist couldn't source a sender quick enough. Its fixed itself now
Strange scary cars these things. Bl@@dy quick though
Dave
Does anyone know how to get the door card off when the window is in the down position??
After reading this thread yesterday and thinking ...Hmm my passenger window is a bit slow maybe I should take a look.... Sure enough the bloody drivers window decided to pack up in the fully down position!!! I dont think the motor is screwed as although it refused to go up it did motor down the last half inch.
Any suggestions? Knowing my luck it will be pissing down for my transcontinental trip to duxford next week
leasehelpme:
Dan
>> Edited by dan on Sunday 4th August 12:25
After reading this thread yesterday and thinking ...Hmm my passenger window is a bit slow maybe I should take a look.... Sure enough the bloody drivers window decided to pack up in the fully down position!!! I dont think the motor is screwed as although it refused to go up it did motor down the last half inch.
Any suggestions? Knowing my luck it will be pissing down for my transcontinental trip to duxford next week
leasehelpme: Dan
>> Edited by dan on Sunday 4th August 12:25
Ok... Main disaster averted
My car is fitted with an aftermarket alarm which has a total closure facility which locks the doors and closes the windows 5 seconds after you start the engine. This is actually a real pain in the backside... but it has meant that I now have a closed window (oh and by the way I still can't reach the nut halfway along the arm rest
.
Anyhoo this leads me to believe the problem is with the switch... so before I start scraping the alloy... Is there a knack to getting the switches out, oh and to make it more complicated I have leven alloy switch covers.
Sorry if I sound a bit of a herbert, but I'm crap with anything mechanical and any advice would be appreciated.
Many Thanks Dan
>> Edited by dan on Sunday 4th August 12:24
My car is fitted with an aftermarket alarm which has a total closure facility which locks the doors and closes the windows 5 seconds after you start the engine. This is actually a real pain in the backside... but it has meant that I now have a closed window (oh and by the way I still can't reach the nut halfway along the arm rest
. Anyhoo this leads me to believe the problem is with the switch... so before I start scraping the alloy... Is there a knack to getting the switches out, oh and to make it more complicated I have leven alloy switch covers.
Sorry if I sound a bit of a herbert, but I'm crap with anything mechanical and any advice would be appreciated.
Many Thanks Dan
>> Edited by dan on Sunday 4th August 12:24
if you push your arm down into the bottom of the door void rather than along to the nut and then reach up to it with your hand you should find it. it is just past the central upright support of the door mechanism.
Hence my comments about being double jointed.....
try the plug on the top of the motor first though - it does not require the removal of the card. it would behave as you have described. IE tempramental then failure.
Good luck
Hence my comments about being double jointed.....
try the plug on the top of the motor first though - it does not require the removal of the card. it would behave as you have described. IE tempramental then failure.
Good luck
Driver's side window went tempremental yesterday, and then stopped completely (up, thankfully). Had already had problems with slow passenger window, but this was an on/off problem, suggesting a connecton.
Reread this thread, and went for the screwdriver, cursing myself for still not getting the chequebook out and ordering Steve Heath's book.
Had lots of fun taking the speaker out and looking round, to no avail. A five second feel underneath the switch itself put all to rights.
Quite glad it was so simple (if a bit random), neighbour looked impressed as I pretended to have a clue about what I was doing. Has definitely motivated me to learn more about the mechanicals. If it wasn't for this site, I'd probably have thought 'bugger' and gone straight to a dealer to get stung...
Reread this thread, and went for the screwdriver, cursing myself for still not getting the chequebook out and ordering Steve Heath's book.
Had lots of fun taking the speaker out and looking round, to no avail. A five second feel underneath the switch itself put all to rights.
Quite glad it was so simple (if a bit random), neighbour looked impressed as I pretended to have a clue about what I was doing. Has definitely motivated me to learn more about the mechanicals. If it wasn't for this site, I'd probably have thought 'bugger' and gone straight to a dealer to get stung...

quote:
A five second feel underneath the switch itself put all to rights.
This is exactly what mine turned out to be. Pushed the switch out gave the wires a bit of a twiddle and bobs your uncle the window went up!! Of course when I refitted the switch it stopped working
but at least I know what the problem is now.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



