Probably a stupid question.......
Discussion
I think I know the answer to this but I'm going to ask it anyway. I've bought an MGB GT 
and the vendor assures me that it has an unleaded head fitted. He can offer no proof other than saying the prevous owner to him told him so. Apart from taking the thing apart is there any way of telling? The head and block are the same colour and I can see no evidence that it's been off the car recently - but that may not mean much.
I could thrash it for the next 10,000 miles on unleaded and see if the valve seats recede but I was hoping for a NDT / non-dismantle solution. My assumption is that there is none.
and the vendor assures me that it has an unleaded head fitted. He can offer no proof other than saying the prevous owner to him told him so. Apart from taking the thing apart is there any way of telling? The head and block are the same colour and I can see no evidence that it's been off the car recently - but that may not mean much.I could thrash it for the next 10,000 miles on unleaded and see if the valve seats recede but I was hoping for a NDT / non-dismantle solution. My assumption is that there is none.
Just use unleaded...The cost of a new head is peanuts compared to the cost of running additive...I have still to witness massive amounts of valve seat recession in toy type cars used gently for weekends and high days only...i think their was a lot of hype regarding how damaging running unleaded could be..
If you are still worried then buy tetra ethyl lead additive and dose up once in a blue moon...This stuff is actually very clingy and has a long memory to guard against seat recession.....
Just run and enjoy.
N.
If you are still worried then buy tetra ethyl lead additive and dose up once in a blue moon...This stuff is actually very clingy and has a long memory to guard against seat recession.....
Just run and enjoy.
N.
I run a 79 Taimar 3L Essex V6.
A pal of mine who has worked on Ford cars since mid 1960's suggested that unleaded is ok in daily use, but if on a "thrash" or long motorway run maybe use additives.
He also advised to only change to unleaded heads when a head problem makes this a "no-brainer" & otherwise "save yer brass lad".
I have followed his advice & have had no problems in the 30,000 mile since
MikeS
A pal of mine who has worked on Ford cars since mid 1960's suggested that unleaded is ok in daily use, but if on a "thrash" or long motorway run maybe use additives.
He also advised to only change to unleaded heads when a head problem makes this a "no-brainer" & otherwise "save yer brass lad".
I have followed his advice & have had no problems in the 30,000 mile since
MikeS
A Taimar I looked at before buying the one I did (which has L/F heads) had some sort of gizmo in the fuel pipe, near the tank, that "drip fed" some sort of addative into the petrol?
I got the immpression it was a "genuine" thing, as opposed to Wonder fuel magnets, electric turbochargers, induction air swirlers etc. sold on Ebay
Have to agree with others, for low mileage, general use far more other things are likely to wear out or fall off an MGB long before the valves sink into the head!
I got the immpression it was a "genuine" thing, as opposed to Wonder fuel magnets, electric turbochargers, induction air swirlers etc. sold on Ebay
Have to agree with others, for low mileage, general use far more other things are likely to wear out or fall off an MGB long before the valves sink into the head!
I've run MGBs for 30 years ish and raced them for 25. Valve seat recession is a major problem even for cars that are not driven hard.
I agree with Neil that most additives are expensive usually because they contain octane booster as well. Personally I've had problems with CVL and VSP but about 5 years ago I changed to Redline lead additive and have not had any problems. An ounce treats twenty gallons and frankly on a lightly used road car you probably dont need to dose that much - I double dose on the race cars but then I'm running rather higher compression and producing a little bit more power.
HTH
I agree with Neil that most additives are expensive usually because they contain octane booster as well. Personally I've had problems with CVL and VSP but about 5 years ago I changed to Redline lead additive and have not had any problems. An ounce treats twenty gallons and frankly on a lightly used road car you probably dont need to dose that much - I double dose on the race cars but then I'm running rather higher compression and producing a little bit more power.
HTH
OK, A mixed response. I assume I was right in my original assumption that you can't tell without taking the thing apart.
We seem, on one hand to be saying "Just run it on unleaded, it'll be fine" and, on the other "B heads are awful, you must use additive" (paraphrasing wildly).
Heads are at least £250 plus gaskets, time, etc. etc. I've always assumed that I can get an awful lot of additive for £250 and Redline at about £15 per 100 gals, at say, 30 mpg, £250 = 50,000 miles worth.
I do appreciate that heads have a lead "memory" but I think I'll just keep chucking in the additive in the absence of a positive way of checking the head without taking it apart.
We seem, on one hand to be saying "Just run it on unleaded, it'll be fine" and, on the other "B heads are awful, you must use additive" (paraphrasing wildly).
Heads are at least £250 plus gaskets, time, etc. etc. I've always assumed that I can get an awful lot of additive for £250 and Redline at about £15 per 100 gals, at say, 30 mpg, £250 = 50,000 miles worth.
I do appreciate that heads have a lead "memory" but I think I'll just keep chucking in the additive in the absence of a positive way of checking the head without taking it apart.
more info - I read that the 'lead memory' typically lasts anywhere from 10k to 30k miles, depending upon the engine. Some engines suffer worse VSR, and it's apparently mainly to do with
1) how heavily loaded the valve seat is 2. how hot the seat runs.
Apparently running slightly rich helps as it cools the valve seat ??
I can say I've not had much problem with my Wedge (2.8 V6) here in NZ, running on 96 Octane with Valvemaster in every 2nd fill......and haven't got it set rich.
1) how heavily loaded the valve seat is 2. how hot the seat runs.
Apparently running slightly rich helps as it cools the valve seat ??
I can say I've not had much problem with my Wedge (2.8 V6) here in NZ, running on 96 Octane with Valvemaster in every 2nd fill......and haven't got it set rich.
Stuart at headmaster is brilliant. He won't fob you off, he won't rip you off and what he wants is you ti be happy as opposed to him making money!!
I asked about the Taimar heads, he even told me that if it was the 2.8/2.9 it'd be risky as the metal gap between the valve hole and exhaust port is "skinny thin'.. The 3ltr Essex has more meat and safer to do.
He really is a good guy and quality workmanship.
I asked about the Taimar heads, he even told me that if it was the 2.8/2.9 it'd be risky as the metal gap between the valve hole and exhaust port is "skinny thin'.. The 3ltr Essex has more meat and safer to do.
He really is a good guy and quality workmanship.
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