Flywheel
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Discussion

Stevo302

Original Poster:

395 posts

167 months

Monday 14th January 2013
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Hi, has anyone done any flywheel lightening? I know you should not over lighten them or wether its a benefit or not but some info would be good. I've had the gearbox out before so its something I could do. I know someone with a lathe.
Cheers.

Stevo302

Original Poster:

395 posts

167 months

Monday 14th January 2013
quotequote all
Just done some more searching on other sites about this. Looks like I'm talking out of my arse unless you know where exactly to remove weight and how to get things matched up.

Fiscracer

585 posts

239 months

Monday 14th January 2013
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Stevo302 said:
Just done some more searching on other sites about this. Looks like I'm talking out of my arse unless you know where exactly to remove weight and how to get things matched up.
It depends. Lightening a standard heavy cast iron flywheel is pretty straightforward and most engine preparation shops will do it for you. You can probably lose 25% of the weight without having any problem. Lowering the rotating mass allows the engine to spin up quicker ie faster throttle response.

It is possible to go too far but most people who want a light flywheel will buy a lightweight steel one or an ali one with steel inserts. Just make sure the register depth is thge same so you dont have to buy a new clutch as well....

R

brhmtvrs

20 posts

190 months

Tuesday 15th January 2013
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I had the flywheel lightened sightly for a TR3. There was a noticeable increase in acceleration, but there was also a noticeable change in starting off. There is a little lag after starting off. Not too much, but noticeable.

Slow M

2,903 posts

235 months

Tuesday 15th January 2013
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brhmtvrs said:
I had the flywheel lightened sightly for a TR3. There was a noticeable increase in acceleration, but there was also a noticeable change in starting off. There is a little lag after starting off. Not too much, but noticeable.
Where, before, the inertial mass of the flywheel was being traded for the car's forward motion, afterward there was less of it to use.

Adrian,

I think one of the Carroll Smith books has a diagram on how to lighten a flywheel. Remember that the further out from the center the mass is, the more difference it makes.

Best,
B.

Stevo302

Original Poster:

395 posts

167 months

Tuesday 15th January 2013
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Now that would be good to see, many thanks all.

RCK974X

2,521 posts

178 months

Tuesday 15th January 2013
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In case it helps, all the piccies I've seen say the most effective place to remove metal is right on the outside, effectively the 'lip' which the ring gear sits next to, and the casting supporting that lip.

This of course means you have to be careful if replaceing the ring gear, as there's no nice fixed register to make sure it's on squarely...

A couple I remember also had extra holes drilled around (and in some cases under) the ring gear too.

Slow M

2,903 posts

235 months

Wednesday 16th January 2013
quotequote all
RCK974X said:
In case it helps, all the piccies I've seen say the most effective place to remove metal is right on the outside, effectively the 'lip' which the ring gear sits next to, and the casting supporting that lip.

This of course means you have to be careful if replaceing the ring gear, as there's no nice fixed register to make sure it's on squarely...

A couple I remember also had extra holes drilled around (and in some cases under) the ring gear too.
The holes are typically for balancing purposes.

Best,
B.

Grantura MKI

817 posts

187 months

Wednesday 16th January 2013
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It is best to do this job whislt building the motor. Rods, crank, clutch cover, flywheel all need to be balanced at the same time.