mx5 wont start hot!
Discussion
Hi
my 5 will not behave when warmed up. used daily to go to work and when left for 8 hours starts and drives fine. after a short trip she will either refuse to start or only start on 3 pots if driven will clear but not quickly as if flooded.
changed plugs, leads and had a diagnostic plug in which showed no faults. i was told on this model,2000, 1600cc, the ignition was not included in the diagnostic menu. The fault "feels" electrical, and i have seen some other similar problems discussed on line but with no final solution. thinking of changing the coil pack maybe for a cheaper patern one new from ebay, any one able to offer some help or advise?
thanks
steve
my 5 will not behave when warmed up. used daily to go to work and when left for 8 hours starts and drives fine. after a short trip she will either refuse to start or only start on 3 pots if driven will clear but not quickly as if flooded.
changed plugs, leads and had a diagnostic plug in which showed no faults. i was told on this model,2000, 1600cc, the ignition was not included in the diagnostic menu. The fault "feels" electrical, and i have seen some other similar problems discussed on line but with no final solution. thinking of changing the coil pack maybe for a cheaper patern one new from ebay, any one able to offer some help or advise?
thanks
steve
Coil packs on 1999-2000 models are notoriously problematic and do fail when 'warm' and return to normality when 'cold'. A temperature sensor would effect the running of all cylinders, not just one, so it is worth pulling off the leads one by one (and plugging back in before pulling the next) and seeing whether the engine runs the same or falters a little more. Check again when cold and you should find that pulling the same plug replicates the same condition when hot.
Phil
Phil
hi
when i went on line to do a bit of research into my problem i could,nt find a resolved issue. i suppose once fixed people just went back to having fun in the car, so here is my update.
fitted the temp sender, a fidderly job, remove coil pack, 3 13 mm bolts, the bottom one being the real mare, had to use my smallest ratchet which meant the socket bareley cleared a congestion of water pipes that are in the way. once loose i could only move the ratchet one click at a time to withdraw thw bolt, boring uncomfortable but not impossible. I thought, due to lack of space the sender unit woud be a pain as my 19 mm ring spanner ony just fitted in the space but once loosened undid by hand fine. watch out for the washer its the same colour as the block not brass like the sender. the sender unit. on mine a 2000 1.6 car, it seems to be a mazda only part bye bye £50. the only casualties a small scratch on the back of my hand and a favorite long 13mm socket which i used on the bottom coil bolt. when the bolt was loose i used the socket between two fingers to try to undo the bolt quicker. it dropped off and currently lives somewhere on or arround the gearbox housing, at least i know where it is. Now for a test drive see if it has all been worth it.
when i went on line to do a bit of research into my problem i could,nt find a resolved issue. i suppose once fixed people just went back to having fun in the car, so here is my update.
fitted the temp sender, a fidderly job, remove coil pack, 3 13 mm bolts, the bottom one being the real mare, had to use my smallest ratchet which meant the socket bareley cleared a congestion of water pipes that are in the way. once loose i could only move the ratchet one click at a time to withdraw thw bolt, boring uncomfortable but not impossible. I thought, due to lack of space the sender unit woud be a pain as my 19 mm ring spanner ony just fitted in the space but once loosened undid by hand fine. watch out for the washer its the same colour as the block not brass like the sender. the sender unit. on mine a 2000 1.6 car, it seems to be a mazda only part bye bye £50. the only casualties a small scratch on the back of my hand and a favorite long 13mm socket which i used on the bottom coil bolt. when the bolt was loose i used the socket between two fingers to try to undo the bolt quicker. it dropped off and currently lives somewhere on or arround the gearbox housing, at least i know where it is. Now for a test drive see if it has all been worth it.
I have a 2000 1.8,had the same problem
The guys at the local Mazda shop only adjusted the postion of the crank sensor,located in front of the engine,towards the cooler,on the right side, and now the problem is gone
Apparently due to vibration that sensor can move a little and needs to be readjusted to factory tolerancies
The guys at the local Mazda shop only adjusted the postion of the crank sensor,located in front of the engine,towards the cooler,on the right side, and now the problem is gone
Apparently due to vibration that sensor can move a little and needs to be readjusted to factory tolerancies
I went for a plug in diagnostic too-but since the garage is out of town i drove a little faster and car cooled down so computer showed nothing wrong.They told me i'd have to leave the car for them to drive because computer needs to be plugged in immediately to show the problem,there is no memory to read from
Well
i have fitted a 2nd hand coilpack as i couldnt get a pattern for the 1.6 loads of options on a 1.8 typical pack came from freelance mazda at chatham £50 against the one i was watching on ebay £97 so thumbs up to them.
fitted now The bolts are 12mm not 13mm on the frame and started no problem, lets see how i get on
once again thanks to all for your kind advice
steve
i have fitted a 2nd hand coilpack as i couldnt get a pattern for the 1.6 loads of options on a 1.8 typical pack came from freelance mazda at chatham £50 against the one i was watching on ebay £97 so thumbs up to them.
fitted now The bolts are 12mm not 13mm on the frame and started no problem, lets see how i get on
once again thanks to all for your kind advice
steve
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