"help me work my camera thread!"- HS30 Bridge camera
Discussion
Chaps
I was given the FujiFilm HS30 bridge camera as a present- and I have to say I am VERY happy with it- its my first non-point and shoot (well, it is a point and shoot, but with SLR capabilities. The only thing you cannot change (I believe) is the lens.
So, I have taken a few good pics, mostly using the camera's automatic settings but playing around with the spot metering focus etc..., but for the life of me I cannot figure out how to work the manual mode on this thing. I have tried countless variations but somehow the picture looks like it was taken on an old Nokia phone!
Can someone, please in very, VERY simple terms explain what I need to do to create a great pic?
Perhaps a "general" setting (iso, shutter speed etc...), which would give me a starting point in say "average" lighting conditions e.g. a normal room???
ETA, when I say general settings, I mean to keep a subject in focus and achieve a blurry background- right now I can achieve this, but with help from the camera and not in full manual mode!
Please help!
Thanks
ET.
I was given the FujiFilm HS30 bridge camera as a present- and I have to say I am VERY happy with it- its my first non-point and shoot (well, it is a point and shoot, but with SLR capabilities. The only thing you cannot change (I believe) is the lens.
So, I have taken a few good pics, mostly using the camera's automatic settings but playing around with the spot metering focus etc..., but for the life of me I cannot figure out how to work the manual mode on this thing. I have tried countless variations but somehow the picture looks like it was taken on an old Nokia phone!
Can someone, please in very, VERY simple terms explain what I need to do to create a great pic?
Perhaps a "general" setting (iso, shutter speed etc...), which would give me a starting point in say "average" lighting conditions e.g. a normal room???
ETA, when I say general settings, I mean to keep a subject in focus and achieve a blurry background- right now I can achieve this, but with help from the camera and not in full manual mode!
Please help!
Thanks
ET.
Edited by extraT on Tuesday 15th January 12:03
Hmm!? 
Why do you need to take it onto manual settings just now, if the auto settings are already giving you good results?
Modern cameras are pretty good at getting things right 95% of the time.
Plus: this might be quite useful
Otherwise "Sunny Sixteen"
On a sunny day: set f/16, set ISO at X and set shutter speed at 1/X

Why do you need to take it onto manual settings just now, if the auto settings are already giving you good results?
Modern cameras are pretty good at getting things right 95% of the time.
Plus: this might be quite useful
Otherwise "Sunny Sixteen"
On a sunny day: set f/16, set ISO at X and set shutter speed at 1/X
K12beano said:
Hmm!? 
Why do you need to take it onto manual settings just now, if the auto settings are already giving you good results?
Modern cameras are pretty good at getting things right 95% of the time.
Plus: this might be quite useful
Otherwise "Sunny Sixteen"
On a sunny day: set f/16, set ISO at X and set shutter speed at 1/X
Because I would like more control over my pictures. I have the manual and its actually pretty good, but I guess I am looking for that something special" I will try the "sunny 16" and see how that gets on!
Why do you need to take it onto manual settings just now, if the auto settings are already giving you good results?
Modern cameras are pretty good at getting things right 95% of the time.
Plus: this might be quite useful
Otherwise "Sunny Sixteen"
On a sunny day: set f/16, set ISO at X and set shutter speed at 1/X
Thanks!
I don't know the camera at all but it is just possible that 'blurry background' of the type you mention is software enhanced.
What I think you are looking for is "Depth of Field" control and that is a bit variable with depoendencies on the distance to the subject, the distance to the background (or foreground) you want blurred, how blurred it needs to be and the aperture (and so the focal length if it affects the aperture options available) of the lens at the time you take the shot.
See if this helps;
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-o...
but don't worry too much about "circles of confusion" for now. They are interesting but not really important to the basic understanding that you seek at the moment.
Some way down the page is a link to a Depth of field calculator. If you use this interactively based on the values available for your camers you should get a feel for how it all works. Of course it also helps if you have a natural ability to estimate distances fairly well ...
What I think you are looking for is "Depth of Field" control and that is a bit variable with depoendencies on the distance to the subject, the distance to the background (or foreground) you want blurred, how blurred it needs to be and the aperture (and so the focal length if it affects the aperture options available) of the lens at the time you take the shot.
See if this helps;
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-o...
but don't worry too much about "circles of confusion" for now. They are interesting but not really important to the basic understanding that you seek at the moment.
Some way down the page is a link to a Depth of field calculator. If you use this interactively based on the values available for your camers you should get a feel for how it all works. Of course it also helps if you have a natural ability to estimate distances fairly well ...

There are three parts of getting a good exposure, known as the exposure triangle; shutter speed, aperture and ISO. If you are shooting in conditions where the light level is constant, if you change one of these settings, you will need to change one or both of the others to compensate. The only time you will need to change one without changing any of the others is if the light level changes.
If you research these three and understand how each affects your images, it will stand you in good stead for all your future photographic endeavours. As for getting a good picture, these only contribute to the technical side; a good eye for subject and composition probably play a bigger part, so if you have that you are already more than half way there.
If you research these three and understand how each affects your images, it will stand you in good stead for all your future photographic endeavours. As for getting a good picture, these only contribute to the technical side; a good eye for subject and composition probably play a bigger part, so if you have that you are already more than half way there.
Loads of DSLR lessons on Youtube (I know the HS30 isn't a DSLR, but you can do all the same things except change the lense) .
I like this guy http://www.youtube.com/user/PhotographersOnUTube?f... and also this guy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhJMdISfqME and this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4bQc36r5ek
But search through the links on the side for many other folks offering good advice.
Don't just switch the dial to 'manual' and expect it to work. You need to understand the shutter priority and apateur priority dial settings first.
PS - The HS30 is on my birthday wish list next week, fingers crossed.
I like this guy http://www.youtube.com/user/PhotographersOnUTube?f... and also this guy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhJMdISfqME and this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4bQc36r5ek
But search through the links on the side for many other folks offering good advice.
Don't just switch the dial to 'manual' and expect it to work. You need to understand the shutter priority and apateur priority dial settings first.
PS - The HS30 is on my birthday wish list next week, fingers crossed.
Edited by Dr Doofenshmirtz on Monday 28th January 21:34
Dr Doofenshmirtz said:
Don't just switch the dial to 'manual' and expect it to work. You need to understand the shutter priority and aperture priority dial settings first.
This is spot on. Don't plan on using manual just for the sake of it. Shutter and Aperture priority modes let you change the shutter speed and aperture respectively (although that was obvious, wasn't it!) and balance up the rest of the camera to provide a decent exposure.I use aperture priority probably 95% of the time. A low number (eg f2.8) will give you a very shallow depth of field and provide that blurry background good for portraits and the like. A high number (eg f22) will give you a very deep depth of field, good for landscapes and the like.
I use shutter priority maybe 2.5% of the time - usually when I'm taking sports shots or something - and the most important thing is to make sure I've got the shutter speed fast enough to ensure I won't get any camera shake.
I use manual the remaining 2.5% of the time, mostly when using a macro lens and ring flash or for nighttime natural light shots with a tripod and very long exposures.
Thanks guys, some very useful and helpful information.
I have to say I am very impressed with the HS30. I love having more control over my pictures and it is a lot more versatile than a point and shoot. The pictures are crisp and stunning. I would say the only limitation is the small sensor makes having a flash a must- and i'm going to buy that soon enough! But for a camera to learn with, its fantastic!
I have to say I am very impressed with the HS30. I love having more control over my pictures and it is a lot more versatile than a point and shoot. The pictures are crisp and stunning. I would say the only limitation is the small sensor makes having a flash a must- and i'm going to buy that soon enough! But for a camera to learn with, its fantastic!
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