high mileage ATR
Discussion
Have a look on the ATR forum for a buyers guide. Quite a few people on there are still running them way into the 100k miles! Great cars, and one of the few that I'd go back to.
The H22a is a pretty bullet-proof engine but obviously pretty highly-stressed, so there are a couple of things to look out for.
The H22a is a pretty bullet-proof engine but obviously pretty highly-stressed, so there are a couple of things to look out for.
Parkers claims about a 30 mpg average.
Look for signs of oil burning (blue smoke from the exhaust) and crunching in the gearbox as they tend to be fairly weak. Also look for smoke on/off VTEC and make sure it engages right. There's probably some more but as above have a look on the forums.
Look for signs of oil burning (blue smoke from the exhaust) and crunching in the gearbox as they tend to be fairly weak. Also look for smoke on/off VTEC and make sure it engages right. There's probably some more but as above have a look on the forums.
Having owned a Prelude for 2 years, same chassis and engine I can honestly say 130k isn't a worry for these engines. Providing they have been well maintained you can expect many more miles. Some tend to use a little oil later in life, especially when hitting VTEC on a regular basis but it's no more than a litre or so every 2-3 months, something to keep an eye on, but as a PH'er I'm sure that's something you'd do anyway. As with any Honda of this era rust may be an issue, rear arches tend to be the main areas of concern so give it a good check underneath. Engine mounts, bushes and suspension may be tired at this age so budget for replacements or perhaps look for a car with the work done if possible.
Even the UK cars respond well to the higher octane fuel despite not being mapped for it, it makes for a smoother drive lower down in the revs so it's worth keeping in mind. The gearbox syncros tend to be a luck of the draw issues, some suffer and some are fine but make sure all gears engage as they should with no crunches.
Even the UK cars respond well to the higher octane fuel despite not being mapped for it, it makes for a smoother drive lower down in the revs so it's worth keeping in mind. The gearbox syncros tend to be a luck of the draw issues, some suffer and some are fine but make sure all gears engage as they should with no crunches.
this one is 51 plate so is that post facelift ?
its up for 2100
this is a copy of the advert
MOT JUNE 2013 / TAX APRIL 2013
136,000 miles with a full honda service history
2 keys / 2 fobs
All honda bookpacks, folder full of invoices for work done, every mot from new, original bill of sale too
Cambelt change @ 116,00 by Lancaster Honda (with paper work)
Exedy Clutch @ 110,000 miles (with paper work)
Last owner 4 years .
PAS, 4xEW, EM, ABS, Remote CL Alarm / immob, Front fogs, Driver / pass airbag, Plus more .
Work done -
Oil & filter change
G box oil
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Dizzy cap / rotor arm
Powder coated wheel refurb (White)
Painted rocker cover
Painted front grill
Tinted rear windows
Detailed and mopped paintwork
This car drives perfectly and runs WITHOUT a problem,Loads of previous paper work with car,
paintwork and interiour is in very good condition,
4 good tyres,
washed polished and waxed every week to keep paintwork as good as possible.
Full recaro seats with small amount of wear on drivers bolster but that realy is it.
its up for 2100
this is a copy of the advert
MOT JUNE 2013 / TAX APRIL 2013
136,000 miles with a full honda service history
2 keys / 2 fobs
All honda bookpacks, folder full of invoices for work done, every mot from new, original bill of sale too
Cambelt change @ 116,00 by Lancaster Honda (with paper work)
Exedy Clutch @ 110,000 miles (with paper work)
Last owner 4 years .
PAS, 4xEW, EM, ABS, Remote CL Alarm / immob, Front fogs, Driver / pass airbag, Plus more .
Work done -
Oil & filter change
G box oil
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Dizzy cap / rotor arm
Powder coated wheel refurb (White)
Painted rocker cover
Painted front grill
Tinted rear windows
Detailed and mopped paintwork
This car drives perfectly and runs WITHOUT a problem,Loads of previous paper work with car,
paintwork and interiour is in very good condition,
4 good tyres,
washed polished and waxed every week to keep paintwork as good as possible.
Full recaro seats with small amount of wear on drivers bolster but that realy is it.
Trustmeimadoctor said:
this one is 51 plate so is that post facelift ?
Yeah, that will be post-facelift so will have the nasty tailpipes! Sounds like a good one though, and cheap.Go and take it for a test-drive. Pay attention to gear-changes, as I think they suffer from a synchro-mesh problem (?) maybe going into reverse? Although that might have been resolved on the facelift model. Not entirely sure as it's been a while since I had mine. There is a buyers guide on the ATR forum that will cover these things.
Make sure it engages VTEC ok too, think it's around 5700rpm. K&N Typhoon induction kits make them sound brilliant.
I've run a pre-facelift for 55,000miles. It's an ace car, and i keep on thinking that I ought to replace it, but i've no idea what with. It's a bit of an unsung hero, and there is a great owner's forum on www.atr.org.uk that I'd recommend that you join. Given the rarity of the cars, there's a good chance that it's known. There are also a small number of cars for sale on the website to consider.
The fifth gear synchro issue isn't quite aligned to pre/post facelift cutoff. It's a VIN introduction, and a small number of post facelift cars are affected. Having said that, my 2000 pre hasn't had the issue, and is not showing any signs of reluctant gear engagement.
As with all VTEC engines, a good service record, using a good quality oil (Motul 8200 in my case) will keep them running for ever and a day. Mine is relatively low mileage having only us ticked over 90,000miles. The H22a7 engine is a higher tune version of the Prelude engine with ~210bhp through a tuned head. You won't get a lot more out without spending a fair amount of cash. Pre facelifts DO require superunleaded, and seem happiest on V Power. I think I've used 95 octane once for a quarter of a tank, and it worked, but seemed very flat.
Corrosion is beginning to be an issue. Door frames and around the rear of the engine (underneath) seem to be hotspots, so take a good look, and don't be fooled by heavy waxoiling.
Not all have aircon, but it's nice to have. Same as any other 10year old + car thought, regassing or replacement of components may be required.
It's noisy, and could do with a sixth gear; but I love mine lots. Seriously struggle to find a new(er) car with similar running costs and size.
The fifth gear synchro issue isn't quite aligned to pre/post facelift cutoff. It's a VIN introduction, and a small number of post facelift cars are affected. Having said that, my 2000 pre hasn't had the issue, and is not showing any signs of reluctant gear engagement.
As with all VTEC engines, a good service record, using a good quality oil (Motul 8200 in my case) will keep them running for ever and a day. Mine is relatively low mileage having only us ticked over 90,000miles. The H22a7 engine is a higher tune version of the Prelude engine with ~210bhp through a tuned head. You won't get a lot more out without spending a fair amount of cash. Pre facelifts DO require superunleaded, and seem happiest on V Power. I think I've used 95 octane once for a quarter of a tank, and it worked, but seemed very flat.
Corrosion is beginning to be an issue. Door frames and around the rear of the engine (underneath) seem to be hotspots, so take a good look, and don't be fooled by heavy waxoiling.
Not all have aircon, but it's nice to have. Same as any other 10year old + car thought, regassing or replacement of components may be required.
It's noisy, and could do with a sixth gear; but I love mine lots. Seriously struggle to find a new(er) car with similar running costs and size.
[/Columbo mode on] One more thing...
Tyres...
As with all cars, tyres fitted to the cars that you are looking at are a good indicator of how it's been looked after.
Opinions are a little divided over the best ones (although I still favour Bridgestone RE050a), but look for Toyo T1-R, Goodyear F1A (or whatever submodel it is this week) or branded equivalent. Remoulds/Chinese Deathhead 2000s are a no no. It's quite a heavy car, so XL loads are preferable, and the car should be fitted with 215/45 R17 size. Enthusiastic use of the LSD with wear the shoulders out quite rapidly.
Tyres...
As with all cars, tyres fitted to the cars that you are looking at are a good indicator of how it's been looked after.
Opinions are a little divided over the best ones (although I still favour Bridgestone RE050a), but look for Toyo T1-R, Goodyear F1A (or whatever submodel it is this week) or branded equivalent. Remoulds/Chinese Deathhead 2000s are a no no. It's quite a heavy car, so XL loads are preferable, and the car should be fitted with 215/45 R17 size. Enthusiastic use of the LSD with wear the shoulders out quite rapidly.
I've been lucky enough to drive all of the late 90's / early 00's type R's (NSX excepted) and the accord is my favorite. I've not got direct experience of high mileage accord type R's, but I have a 2002 accord 2.3 type V with 130,000 miles on it, and it feels absolutely fine, showing no sign of its mileage at all (i don't personally consider 130,000 high)
British drivers seem to have a fear of high mileage, where as other countries don't seem to worry as much. While I'd agree the driving conditions are easier, 500,000 km is not unusual in Australia, and 250,000 miles is normal in the USA. In Poland 300,000 km cars are normal, and their winters are far harsher than ours.
I've owned a 200,000 mile vehicle, and it was about the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned (100% reliability). The lowest mileage one (23,000 miles when bought, 50,000 when sold 2 years later) was the most unreliable by a massive margin.
The issue you're going to find with an accord type R is how hard a life its had, especially in later life as it may have been used as a track day hack, or "my first performance car" on a limited budget.
British drivers seem to have a fear of high mileage, where as other countries don't seem to worry as much. While I'd agree the driving conditions are easier, 500,000 km is not unusual in Australia, and 250,000 miles is normal in the USA. In Poland 300,000 km cars are normal, and their winters are far harsher than ours.
I've owned a 200,000 mile vehicle, and it was about the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned (100% reliability). The lowest mileage one (23,000 miles when bought, 50,000 when sold 2 years later) was the most unreliable by a massive margin.
The issue you're going to find with an accord type R is how hard a life its had, especially in later life as it may have been used as a track day hack, or "my first performance car" on a limited budget.
I ran an Accord Type-R as a company car for 3 years back in 2000-2003. I was a very very very lucky chap to have one of these fully-expensed.
It was thoroughly abused as only a company car could be, but I also did very high mileage in it. Over the 3 years I had X814CJH i took it from new to 108,000 miles. By the time it got to 95k it started to drink a bit more oil, and by 100k it was a problem to start first thing in the morning - taking ages to crank over, and when it did catch it gave big clouds of smoke from the exhaust. It felt a bit down on power too.
Even if the piston rings were failing, it never, ever broke down. The only thing that failed was the bulb in the clock. It was an amazing car, and the best handling FWD car i've ever driven.
Tyres lasted about 6000 miles max, and I got about 22mpg with some motorway driving included.
It was thoroughly abused as only a company car could be, but I also did very high mileage in it. Over the 3 years I had X814CJH i took it from new to 108,000 miles. By the time it got to 95k it started to drink a bit more oil, and by 100k it was a problem to start first thing in the morning - taking ages to crank over, and when it did catch it gave big clouds of smoke from the exhaust. It felt a bit down on power too.
Even if the piston rings were failing, it never, ever broke down. The only thing that failed was the bulb in the clock. It was an amazing car, and the best handling FWD car i've ever driven.
Tyres lasted about 6000 miles max, and I got about 22mpg with some motorway driving included.
My shed ATR has reached 160K without needing major surgery. I'm running it on banger logic waiting for it to die so I can replace it but it simply won't!
It gets a cheap oil change ever 10K and had the belts changed at 80K. Hasn't seen a Honda dealer since 60K. I'm sure the people on the ATR forum would be horrified by the condition of mine but it keeps going.
Hopefully the MOT in May will finish it.
It gets a cheap oil change ever 10K and had the belts changed at 80K. Hasn't seen a Honda dealer since 60K. I'm sure the people on the ATR forum would be horrified by the condition of mine but it keeps going.
Hopefully the MOT in May will finish it.
Edited by Fittster on Friday 18th January 13:28
Fittster said:
My shed ATR has reached 160K without needing major surgery. I'm running it on banger logic waiting for it to die so I can replace it but it simply won't!
It gets a cheap oil change ever 10K and had the belts changed at 80K. Has seen a Honda dealer since 60K. I'm sure the people on the ATR forum would be horrified by the condition of mine but it keeps going.
Hopefully the MOT in May will finish it.
Yours sounds like mine, which is now about 134k. Im just waiting for something to go wrong, but in 4 years and 35k miles Ive had it nothing has. When I was buying it years back loads of them already had over 150k on so I wouldnt think 130k miles was excessive anyway.It gets a cheap oil change ever 10K and had the belts changed at 80K. Has seen a Honda dealer since 60K. I'm sure the people on the ATR forum would be horrified by the condition of mine but it keeps going.
Hopefully the MOT in May will finish it.
Edited by Fittster on Friday 18th January 13:27
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Here's a lengthy thread on mine. It has now ticked over to 122,000. I bought it relatively cheap and have spent many pounds on getting up to "standard".
Mine came with nice twin tailpipes and the typhoon already fitted. I thought I had picked wisely with the 5th gear issues but turns out that the early facelifts also have the problem !. Ayway mine, touch wood, is ok at the moment. Gear changes from vtec from 3rd into 5 are not possible however, but that is a bit silly anyway.
They do rust as mentioned before. Inner tops of doors behind weather seal get really bad , sumps , wheel wells (both under and inside where water gets) , front of sill where there is a subframe/stiffening bracket can be really bad too.
Others issues are cloudy headlights , knackered seat bolsters , seizing calipers , terrible handbrake operation , leaky cam seal , oil usage (very important to check ), rattles , shaky alloys (relatively easy to get out of shape), play in passenger driveshaft , rusty brakelines , all engine mounts go too. They are pretty sensitive to cambelt changes too and ensure the tensioner is done at the same time. This is paramount.
If you need a specialist garage if you do buy it search for vtec direct too, DO NOT go to Honda. lol
They are a great car though , especially for the cash. Alot of what I have mentioned happens on a lot of older cars I guess. IT is 10 years old and fairs better than alot of others. MPG wise I can get up to 35 ish when driven easy but soon dramatically drops in VTEC.
Here's a lengthy thread on mine. It has now ticked over to 122,000. I bought it relatively cheap and have spent many pounds on getting up to "standard".
Mine came with nice twin tailpipes and the typhoon already fitted. I thought I had picked wisely with the 5th gear issues but turns out that the early facelifts also have the problem !. Ayway mine, touch wood, is ok at the moment. Gear changes from vtec from 3rd into 5 are not possible however, but that is a bit silly anyway.
They do rust as mentioned before. Inner tops of doors behind weather seal get really bad , sumps , wheel wells (both under and inside where water gets) , front of sill where there is a subframe/stiffening bracket can be really bad too.
Others issues are cloudy headlights , knackered seat bolsters , seizing calipers , terrible handbrake operation , leaky cam seal , oil usage (very important to check ), rattles , shaky alloys (relatively easy to get out of shape), play in passenger driveshaft , rusty brakelines , all engine mounts go too. They are pretty sensitive to cambelt changes too and ensure the tensioner is done at the same time. This is paramount.
If you need a specialist garage if you do buy it search for vtec direct too, DO NOT go to Honda. lol
They are a great car though , especially for the cash. Alot of what I have mentioned happens on a lot of older cars I guess. IT is 10 years old and fairs better than alot of others. MPG wise I can get up to 35 ish when driven easy but soon dramatically drops in VTEC.
I have one in red the best colour showing 130k. Had a few wear and tear items tyres brakes rear drop
Links.
Have front shockers to fit when weather gets better. Had it nearly 12 month done 5k in that time barring checking oil and topping up /changing regularly not had any problems at all.
Buy it ,drive it,abuse it,you will have a giggle I do every time I drive it
Links.
Have front shockers to fit when weather gets better. Had it nearly 12 month done 5k in that time barring checking oil and topping up /changing regularly not had any problems at all.
Buy it ,drive it,abuse it,you will have a giggle I do every time I drive it
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