Chimaera soft top window stitching
Discussion
My car's got rotten stitching around the rear window, some of which has now pulled out so the window is hanging out at the top. The soft top and window seem in good condition, so I need to get the window stitched back in, probably with some sort of weather sealant in between the surfaces.
Does the soft top have to be removed from car to get it done properly?
I was wondering how the top is held in place around the base?
There is an interior piece of trim which fits around the inside of the top, with only 1 screw each side just above the seat belt. With the 2 screws removed, it still seems stuck fast.
I don't want to go crazy pulling it if it's not going to help ; )
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Chris
1995 TVR 4.0L in NZ.
Does the soft top have to be removed from car to get it done properly?
I was wondering how the top is held in place around the base?
There is an interior piece of trim which fits around the inside of the top, with only 1 screw each side just above the seat belt. With the 2 screws removed, it still seems stuck fast.
I don't want to go crazy pulling it if it's not going to help ; )
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Chris
1995 TVR 4.0L in NZ.
I had this happen to mine, the window was in good condition so I tried to stitch it with a needle meant for leather.
I only wanted to make it as water tight as possible so I could wash and treat the roof. It was almost impossible so in the end I got it replaced buy an expert. Its well worth it and its not that much to do.
I only wanted to make it as water tight as possible so I could wash and treat the roof. It was almost impossible so in the end I got it replaced buy an expert. Its well worth it and its not that much to do.
StarmistBlue400 said:
I had this happen to mine, the window was in good condition so I tried to stitch it with a needle meant for leather.
I only wanted to make it as water tight as possible so I could wash and treat the roof. It was almost impossible so in the end I got it replaced buy an expert. Its well worth it and its not that much to do.
+1 on this. Mine was exactly the same last summer. Window was still in good condition, just the stitching had perished at both top corners.I only wanted to make it as water tight as possible so I could wash and treat the roof. It was almost impossible so in the end I got it replaced buy an expert. Its well worth it and its not that much to do.
As previously mentioned, a DIY job sounds easy but in reality it's ni-on impossible. The specialist advice was that matching the holes in the existing window for stitching would be far more difficult than replacing with new window. (cost of new window material was £11 extra!) Yes, the hood had to come off to be stitched by machine. Do it once, do it properly. Well worth it is as the hood is now like new.
I managed to sew mine back together with a sewing awl off ebay pretty cheap and works well with a little practice
http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/321043038090?var=lv...
http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/321043038090?var=lv...
cpnnz said:
Yes, it does look like it would be hard to stitch in place. Has anyone removed the top themselves? I just wonder how it's held on so I can take it off and give to the upholsterer to re-stitch.. Thanks.
Removed mine 3yrs ago for professional stitching... The top is easy to take off, from memory unscrew all the M6 countersunk cap screws which you see around the rear interior leather facia. You may need a hand as someone will need to hold a 10mm spanner on the nuts on the back of these - access is from the boot. Then undo the two M8 pivot bolts (one each side) which the targa folds up/down on - finally disconnect the multi-plug which operated the interior light (access from the void at the door lock assy at the side of each seat). 30mins tops should see the Targa canopy removed.
Cheers
Dickie Dastardly said:
Removed mine 3yrs ago for professional stitching...
The top is easy to take off, from memory unscrew all the M6 countersunk cap screws which you see around the rear interior leather facia. You may need a hand as someone will need to hold a 10mm spanner on the nuts on the back of these - access is from the boot. Then undo the two M8 pivot bolts (one each side) which the targa folds up/down on - finally disconnect the multi-plug which operated the interior light (access from the void at the door lock assy at the side of each seat). 30mins tops should see the Targa canopy removed.
Cheers
Thanks, I can see it now. Removed the carpet trim panel above the fuel tank and can feel 3 or so nuts to undo. Should be easy as you say. Thanks for the info!The top is easy to take off, from memory unscrew all the M6 countersunk cap screws which you see around the rear interior leather facia. You may need a hand as someone will need to hold a 10mm spanner on the nuts on the back of these - access is from the boot. Then undo the two M8 pivot bolts (one each side) which the targa folds up/down on - finally disconnect the multi-plug which operated the interior light (access from the void at the door lock assy at the side of each seat). 30mins tops should see the Targa canopy removed.
Cheers
cpnnz said:
Thanks, I can see it now. Removed the carpet trim panel above the fuel tank and can feel 3 or so nuts to undo. Should be easy as you say. Thanks for the info!
Please be aware however. When I removed the targa section of a '96 Chimaera some years ago I found that there were two round-headed bolts securing it to the tub- one each side below each of the velcro pads on both sides. I had no option but to cut them away from the bodywork from above as they were inaccessible from inside the boot.kenny Chim 4 said:
Please be aware however. When I removed the targa section of a '96 Chimaera some years ago I found that there were two round-headed bolts securing it to the tub- one each side below each of the velcro pads on both sides. I had no option but to cut them away from the bodywork from above as they were inaccessible from inside the boot.
Thanks, It's off now. Found 3 nuts accessable from the boot, and 1 more each side accessable by reaching in through the access covers inside the rear of the door shut... VERY fiddly to undo these 2, hard on knees and arms! one was rusted solid and pulled out of the trim piece, so will have to glass it in again.I'll talk to the upholsterer see if he can do this before the hood is glued back around the trim again.
Nice one- seems like you did better than I did!
In the end though, the new hood on mine fitted fine with no water ingress nor strain etc.
Just a pity that the car was rear-ended whilst stationary by an obese Golf driver a couple of weeks later. His reason being that he was on his 'fast' which he claimed affected his responses. Pathetic excuse TBH but probably correct as he was certainly not in a fit state to be driving.
During the recoverable cost negotiations with my insurance company, I mentioned that I'd replaced the complete hood, back section and rear window very recently and they simply said that this would be expected of an insuree to maintain the value of the car so was not taken into consideration..
In the end though, the new hood on mine fitted fine with no water ingress nor strain etc.
Just a pity that the car was rear-ended whilst stationary by an obese Golf driver a couple of weeks later. His reason being that he was on his 'fast' which he claimed affected his responses. Pathetic excuse TBH but probably correct as he was certainly not in a fit state to be driving.
During the recoverable cost negotiations with my insurance company, I mentioned that I'd replaced the complete hood, back section and rear window very recently and they simply said that this would be expected of an insuree to maintain the value of the car so was not taken into consideration..
Edited by kenny Chim 4 on Thursday 24th January 01:35
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