Discussion
Hey guys
My S3 has got got enough Waxoil on it to float a battleship but it obviously needs doing this winter.
How does Waxoil get applied, brush, airgun, or what and how the hell do you stop it going all over the garage floor, I suppose you will tell me sheet it out.
Or are there specialist places that are set up to spray it everywhere.
My S3 has got got enough Waxoil on it to float a battleship but it obviously needs doing this winter.
How does Waxoil get applied, brush, airgun, or what and how the hell do you stop it going all over the garage floor, I suppose you will tell me sheet it out.
Or are there specialist places that are set up to spray it everywhere.
I believe you can warm up a tub and spray, or brush the inaccessible areas. However, I prefer the 'give it to a garage and pay money' version!
Last year, Peninsular did mine for £80+vat.
There are many TVR/specialist garages that will do this for you, but make sure they do clean it down first. Some might just spray on top of existing cr*p.
Really wants to be done on a dry day to avoid trapping moisture, and thus negating the whole point of doing it.
Alternatively, to be sure it really is done properly, you can spend the filthiest day of your entire life crawling under your S on axle stands, wishing you had bought those safety goggles after all
Last year, Peninsular did mine for £80+vat.
There are many TVR/specialist garages that will do this for you, but make sure they do clean it down first. Some might just spray on top of existing cr*p.
Really wants to be done on a dry day to avoid trapping moisture, and thus negating the whole point of doing it.
Alternatively, to be sure it really is done properly, you can spend the filthiest day of your entire life crawling under your S on axle stands, wishing you had bought those safety goggles after all
If you are going to apply waxoil then the spray is the best way IMHO, you can get an attachment probe for getting into some of the more inaccessible areas. I have also always used car body underseal, this is like tar and must be brushed on.
Spraying waxoil is very messy, so I use an old sheet covered with news paper to roll around on (I can’t believe I just wrote that) Ware a hat so your hair doesn’t get splashed and gloves, goggles etc. Have some thinners handy for removing stains from your face otherwise you will look like you have the plague. Thinking about it a full mask would be great.
It is not difficult and if you do it your self you will have the peace of mind that all the difficult to reach areas have been covered. Having the car up on stands is also the perfect time to check all the other bits of your car and change fluids etc.
Z
Spraying waxoil is very messy, so I use an old sheet covered with news paper to roll around on
(I can’t believe I just wrote that) Ware a hat so your hair doesn’t get splashed and gloves, goggles etc. Have some thinners handy for removing stains from your face otherwise you will look like you have the plague. Thinking about it a full mask would be great. It is not difficult and if you do it your self you will have the peace of mind that all the difficult to reach areas have been covered. Having the car up on stands is also the perfect time to check all the other bits of your car and change fluids etc.
Z
WildfireS3 said:
Why do you have to have all the ols stuff cleaned off? Maybe a stuoid question but surely it is layered on there and should stay on there for more protection?
I agree, generally.
The only exception is where it has previously been applied on top of the powder coating and that has subsequently started to flake off. It's worth a rub down with a wire brush then re-coat with the waxoyl.
IMHO
Am I the only one thats used the spray can version of wax oil? I found this pretty good stuff (obviously once flaky/rusty stuff is off. Claims to have some ku-rust type stuff in it to inhibit/treat rust and ends up in a nice plain black finish. A bit pricey compared to the 'big can' approach however you don't have to heat it up or generally fanny about with tubes and attachments (oh err missus), sprays through a little plastic tube (like WD40) for 'all those important little places'.
Checked mine over a wee while ago and its still sound and doesn't look like it needs a re-coat, just a respray in the high wear places.
Checked mine over a wee while ago and its still sound and doesn't look like it needs a re-coat, just a respray in the high wear places.
mikes3 said:
Am I the only one thats used the spray can version of wax oil? I found this pretty good stuff (obviously once flaky/rusty stuff is off. Claims to have some ku-rust type stuff in it to inhibit/treat rust and ends up in a nice plain black finish. A bit pricey compared to the 'big can' approach however you don't have to heat it up or generally fanny about with tubes and attachments (oh err missus), sprays through a little plastic tube (like WD40) for 'all those important little places'.
Checked mine over a wee while ago and its still sound and doesn't look like it needs a re-coat, just a respray in the high wear places.
The makers of waxoyl now do a stone chip protection with waxoyl in it. I used this and there appears to be very little wear around the outriggers, it dries firmer but still flexi.
WildfireS3 said:
Why do you have to have all the ols stuff cleaned off? Maybe a stuoid question but surely it is layered on there and should stay on there for more protection?
If you run the car over winter it will be covered in dirt and SALT the dirt will prevent the waxoyl staying on and the salt...
kentishS2 said:
Why do you have to have all the ols stuff cleaned off? Maybe a stuoid question but surely it is layered on there and should stay on there for more protection?
I agree, generally.
The only exception is where it has previously been applied on top of the powder coating and that has subsequently started to flake off. It's worth a rub down with a wire brush then re-coat with the waxoyl.
IMHO
Reading this can I just have a sense check, is it necessary to paint the chassis first, or is it OK to Waxoyl straight onto the chassis?
Pies said:
You can waxoyl straight onto the chasis if you want 
Obviously painting the bare bits will offer more protection
Thanks Colin. Do you know anyone around Kent that does it, as I'm in two minds about whether to spend valuable "driving time" underneath the car instead of in it.
If you can make it to Newbury Greenham Business Park), Chris Parkinson of Before'n'after does this all day & every day for a living. I had my Range Rover done and I wish I had known about him before I spent two winters under the Tiv scraping, priming, painting & waxoyling. He will not be cheap, but if a job is worth etc. etc.
Ian.
Ian.
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