Vauxhall 150 cdti woes then not! ?? EGR etc
Discussion
Hi all!!
I was a member on here a few years ago,forgot my password,new email etc so have resigned up!
I have a little problem with my missi's car and am hoping someone may be able to point me in the right direction??
Vauxhal signum 150 cdti 135k, well looked after.
She was driving on the motorway earlier and the car went into limp mode, she limped home and I decided after checking the swirl flap bar was working ok then the next port of call was the EGR, I removed the said piece of junk and found it to be partially seized on the spring side and the actuator pin in the electric side was actually partially seized in!
I set about cleaning everything up with wd40 and managed to unseize everything relatively easily, refitted it and took it for a drive, the car drove fine and was no longer in limp mode although the engine light is still on>?? I guess I will need to get the fault code removed from the ecu to get rid of the engine light>?
So...... I am on the test drive and the car is pulling well through the gears but I am noticing that the turbo does not seem to be kicking in for long and infact the boost has noticeably dropped........
back home and I removed the turbo boost sensor from the inlet manifold to find it was totally blocked with crud, I cleaned it all off and refitted it, took it for another test drive and found it was boosting better and for a bit longer but still not how I remember it (not drove it for ages!) boosting.
My question is....
Cant the boost valve wear out? or partially break down? Is there anything else I can clean up that would affect boost?Could a partially sticking EGR valve cause loss of boost? (obviously not sticking now)
I had the DPF and ecu command entry removed some months ago also I have just the other day fitted a four hole blanking plate.
Many thanks,
Paul.
I was a member on here a few years ago,forgot my password,new email etc so have resigned up!
I have a little problem with my missi's car and am hoping someone may be able to point me in the right direction??
Vauxhal signum 150 cdti 135k, well looked after.
She was driving on the motorway earlier and the car went into limp mode, she limped home and I decided after checking the swirl flap bar was working ok then the next port of call was the EGR, I removed the said piece of junk and found it to be partially seized on the spring side and the actuator pin in the electric side was actually partially seized in!
I set about cleaning everything up with wd40 and managed to unseize everything relatively easily, refitted it and took it for a drive, the car drove fine and was no longer in limp mode although the engine light is still on>?? I guess I will need to get the fault code removed from the ecu to get rid of the engine light>?
So...... I am on the test drive and the car is pulling well through the gears but I am noticing that the turbo does not seem to be kicking in for long and infact the boost has noticeably dropped........
back home and I removed the turbo boost sensor from the inlet manifold to find it was totally blocked with crud, I cleaned it all off and refitted it, took it for another test drive and found it was boosting better and for a bit longer but still not how I remember it (not drove it for ages!) boosting.
My question is....
Cant the boost valve wear out? or partially break down? Is there anything else I can clean up that would affect boost?Could a partially sticking EGR valve cause loss of boost? (obviously not sticking now)
I had the DPF and ecu command entry removed some months ago also I have just the other day fitted a four hole blanking plate.
Many thanks,
Paul.
If the light is still on the fault is still active.
Have you tried the pedal test to get the codes ? only works on the later cars.
If the map sensor was full of crap thats a bad thing, there must be oil where there shouldn't be...
Its unlikely that you've been able to clean it out enough if it was badly blocked, that could still be causing an issue.
Have you tried the pedal test to get the codes ? only works on the later cars.
If the map sensor was full of crap thats a bad thing, there must be oil where there shouldn't be...
Its unlikely that you've been able to clean it out enough if it was badly blocked, that could still be causing an issue.
Hi all,
I managed to get an hour checking all the boost pipes and couldnt find any leaks, there are two pipes going into a small white vacuum chamber thing that is sat on top of the radiator,I took the pipes off of it and checked by sucking and blowing through them and and checked for pressure with the engine running, both pipes had positive and negative pressure there, I then blew down and sucked on the pipe that goes down to the Turbo actuator and I could definitely hear the actuator working although when I sucked on the pipe to open the actuator it was a constant suck as if the pressure was escaping slowly....is that how it should be?
I re-removed the turbo boost pressure sensor from the inlet manifold and after 200 miles it is again covered in oil residue (wet), I am guessing if there is oil vapor in the inlet manifold then that would suggest the turbo seals are going and would another possible indicator be the cloud of smoke from cold in a morning.
It is actually boosting but the power of boost and the duration is very low, I just cant work out why if it is the turbo failing I dont have masses of smoke when its driving, just the huge cloud first thing in a morning? If you flog it to death in second and third gear then there is actually a small trail of blue smoke out of the back but other than that , nothing.
The only other thing I can think of is that when I took the egr valve off I actually split the egr into two pieces and found that the small push pin that goes into the electrical half was seized inwards,I did free this off but am now wondering if the electronics in that half of the valve are malfunctioning they may be affecting the ecu in some way.....could it be I just need a new egr valve?......what actually happens when an egr valve fails? apart from putting car in limp mode would it be able to possibly restrict the turbo in some way??
any way, enough sucking and blowing for today and many thanks for all and any advice!
I managed to get an hour checking all the boost pipes and couldnt find any leaks, there are two pipes going into a small white vacuum chamber thing that is sat on top of the radiator,I took the pipes off of it and checked by sucking and blowing through them and and checked for pressure with the engine running, both pipes had positive and negative pressure there, I then blew down and sucked on the pipe that goes down to the Turbo actuator and I could definitely hear the actuator working although when I sucked on the pipe to open the actuator it was a constant suck as if the pressure was escaping slowly....is that how it should be?
I re-removed the turbo boost pressure sensor from the inlet manifold and after 200 miles it is again covered in oil residue (wet), I am guessing if there is oil vapor in the inlet manifold then that would suggest the turbo seals are going and would another possible indicator be the cloud of smoke from cold in a morning.
It is actually boosting but the power of boost and the duration is very low, I just cant work out why if it is the turbo failing I dont have masses of smoke when its driving, just the huge cloud first thing in a morning? If you flog it to death in second and third gear then there is actually a small trail of blue smoke out of the back but other than that , nothing.
The only other thing I can think of is that when I took the egr valve off I actually split the egr into two pieces and found that the small push pin that goes into the electrical half was seized inwards,I did free this off but am now wondering if the electronics in that half of the valve are malfunctioning they may be affecting the ecu in some way.....could it be I just need a new egr valve?......what actually happens when an egr valve fails? apart from putting car in limp mode would it be able to possibly restrict the turbo in some way??
any way, enough sucking and blowing for today and many thanks for all and any advice!
bladeage1 said:
I re-removed the turbo boost pressure sensor from the inlet manifold and after 200 miles it is again covered in oil residue (wet),
Are you sure it's oil? Just asking because unless you've blanked off the EGR valve, the sensor (and the swirl flaps) will get caked in oily sooty deposits from the exhaust.Hi,
I have spent the day removing pipes etc and didnt really find that much oil in them,so continued on and took the throttle body off.....what a horrible gunky mess it was inside, I cleaned it all off and decided to empty half a can or so of carb cleaner into the inlet manifold not all at once but over half an hour or so just to see if it would release some of the soot in there and perhaps give the swirl flaps a bit of a clean,I did let the carb cleaner dissipate for a while before starting the engine and when I did start it loads and loads of crap came out the back and it then cleared. I took it for a drive and what a difference there is now.....it is definitely boosting well in 1st and 2nd,...3rd 4th and fifth I can now feel it pulling much better but still not quite like it should.
I am guessing that the swirl flaps were/are stcking slightly?
I checked the swirl bar for movement the other day and all seemed ok with it? If the swirl flaps were not opening/closing properly would that cause the turbo to not work properly?
Should I take the inlet manifold off now and give it a thorough clean and how easy and long does it take to do this>?
Many thanks everyone!
Paul
I have spent the day removing pipes etc and didnt really find that much oil in them,so continued on and took the throttle body off.....what a horrible gunky mess it was inside, I cleaned it all off and decided to empty half a can or so of carb cleaner into the inlet manifold not all at once but over half an hour or so just to see if it would release some of the soot in there and perhaps give the swirl flaps a bit of a clean,I did let the carb cleaner dissipate for a while before starting the engine and when I did start it loads and loads of crap came out the back and it then cleared. I took it for a drive and what a difference there is now.....it is definitely boosting well in 1st and 2nd,...3rd 4th and fifth I can now feel it pulling much better but still not quite like it should.
I am guessing that the swirl flaps were/are stcking slightly?
I checked the swirl bar for movement the other day and all seemed ok with it? If the swirl flaps were not opening/closing properly would that cause the turbo to not work properly?
Should I take the inlet manifold off now and give it a thorough clean and how easy and long does it take to do this>?
Many thanks everyone!
Paul
Having done it, I would advise you not to remove the inlet manifold unless it's really necessary. It's a very fiddly job, and means stretching over the engine to reach bolts that you can't even see.
Now that it seems to be running better, I'd suggest blanking-off the EGR valve. To me, it just seems wrong to put filthy exhaust smoke into the inlet manifold, especially one with relatively delicate moving parts (swirl valves).
With any luck, once the EGR is blanked-off, the manifold will gradually get cleaner over a period of time.
Now that it seems to be running better, I'd suggest blanking-off the EGR valve. To me, it just seems wrong to put filthy exhaust smoke into the inlet manifold, especially one with relatively delicate moving parts (swirl valves).
With any luck, once the EGR is blanked-off, the manifold will gradually get cleaner over a period of time.
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