Clutch bite high?
Discussion
Hi All
My car is almost back on the road after a bit of TLC. However prior to starting the work it was evident that the clutch bite point was very high, almost at he end of the pedal travel.
Does this mean the clutch is on its way out. Or are they adjustable? No sign what so ever of the clutch slipping. Pulls like a train in any gear.
I've been reading a few post about the nightmare that can be clutch replacement.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Cheers Karl.
My car is almost back on the road after a bit of TLC. However prior to starting the work it was evident that the clutch bite point was very high, almost at he end of the pedal travel.
Does this mean the clutch is on its way out. Or are they adjustable? No sign what so ever of the clutch slipping. Pulls like a train in any gear.
I've been reading a few post about the nightmare that can be clutch replacement.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Cheers Karl.
Hi,
It's not adjustable.
I did fit a replacement master cylinder once that was faulty and kept building up pressure gradually with use which meant the bite point kept rising. I had to keep releasing the pressure by loosening the clutch pipe union till I realised that the new cylinder was duff.
However I doubt this is your problem I'm afraid. You can change the clutch by wheeling the engine forward on a trolley jack, it doesn't have to be a full engine out job.
I think all you can do is wait till it starts slipping.
Danny
It's not adjustable.
I did fit a replacement master cylinder once that was faulty and kept building up pressure gradually with use which meant the bite point kept rising. I had to keep releasing the pressure by loosening the clutch pipe union till I realised that the new cylinder was duff.
However I doubt this is your problem I'm afraid. You can change the clutch by wheeling the engine forward on a trolley jack, it doesn't have to be a full engine out job.
I think all you can do is wait till it starts slipping.
Danny
I used a cheaper one in mine (a little bit more powerful than standatd 350i though) and it busted the metal couplings in the centre. So then I got an AP racing clutch - more expensive at £120+ for the plate, but so far so good, no further problems.
For the extra few quid, because it's such a hassle to change, you may as well play it safe.
For the extra few quid, because it's such a hassle to change, you may as well play it safe.
My clutch bite point was high to and thought i needed a new clutch and as i'm replacing my gearbox thought best to completely renew it but on inspection yesterday i found the clutch was in great condition with little wear, so i've installed the new one and now in the process of replacing the slave cylinder (ebay £20 complete unit) and seals in the master just to be on the safe side, that way i can't go wrong...........i hope lol
If its any help. Reciepts show my clutch was changes at 76k, so it seems 70 to 80k maybe the limit of the friction plate. I was always advised to change everything at the same time when any clutch run out, althought you may get away with it sometimes its no always the case, and the clutch does a hell of a job, so worth always changing out the whole lot.
utternutter said:
i changed the complete clutch with a upprated borg and beck system but everything on the old clutch is good, cars only done 34k from new
How closely did you look? In my case if you laid the friction plate inside the pressure plate, it barely stood up above the mounting lugs. But with the new one, it was standing up much higher.Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


