Identifying driveshaft failure?
Discussion
I suspect my 306 HDi might have a busted driveshaft.
It started last week, a gentle knocking which you could feel through the steering but it only occured turning right.
It's become much more audible and the sensation through the wheel is more significant, to the point where I'm worried that if I keep driving it then I might damage something. I have access to a 2-post lift but not until Sunday...
I've noticed that if I coast when turning right then it doesn't happen, but if it's in gear then it's prevalent.
Will I cause more damage if I continue to drive?
Is it dangerous to drive it like this? (still corners as it should)
Is it a complicated DIY job? Never done one. Have seen a replacement costs around £47 which is less than I expected.
Any help much appreciated!
It started last week, a gentle knocking which you could feel through the steering but it only occured turning right.
It's become much more audible and the sensation through the wheel is more significant, to the point where I'm worried that if I keep driving it then I might damage something. I have access to a 2-post lift but not until Sunday...
I've noticed that if I coast when turning right then it doesn't happen, but if it's in gear then it's prevalent.
Will I cause more damage if I continue to drive?
Is it dangerous to drive it like this? (still corners as it should)
Is it a complicated DIY job? Never done one. Have seen a replacement costs around £47 which is less than I expected.
Any help much appreciated!
Not overly difficult & can be done on a level drive. Done a few of these on the 1.6 petrol 306. The Haynes manual is good on this one.
Differences between the n/s & o/s driveshafts. The o/s is longer & has an intermediate bearing on the shaft which is held onto the car by two L shaped bolts which need slackening right off & turning 180deg. this bearing has a habit of sticking in the carrier & often needs a bit of persuasion with penetrating fluid & a drift to get the shaft out.
It MAY be worth taking the old shaft with you to pick up the new one as there are a couple of different diameters. Guess how I know that!
Drain gearbox.
Loosen nut on end of driveshaft - easier before jacking wheel off ground as it's done up FT. Will either be a single use staked nut or a nut with a castellated cover & split pin or 'R' clip.
Slacken wheel nuts.
Jack car up & support with axle stands.
Remove road wheel.
Remove driveshaft nut.
Detach track rod end from steering arm
Undo & remove 3 bolts retaining lower suspension balljoint to the lower wishbone(Torx headed bolts)
Press on end of driveshaft as you pull the hub off the splined end of the driveshaft.
If o/s shaft undo & turn intermediate bearing retaining bolt.
Pull shaft from gearbox, noting any rubber shields on the shaft.
Refit is reverse - be careful inserting shaft into gearbox to avoid damaging seal. DON'T forget to refill gearbox.
Differences between the n/s & o/s driveshafts. The o/s is longer & has an intermediate bearing on the shaft which is held onto the car by two L shaped bolts which need slackening right off & turning 180deg. this bearing has a habit of sticking in the carrier & often needs a bit of persuasion with penetrating fluid & a drift to get the shaft out.
It MAY be worth taking the old shaft with you to pick up the new one as there are a couple of different diameters. Guess how I know that!
Drain gearbox.
Loosen nut on end of driveshaft - easier before jacking wheel off ground as it's done up FT. Will either be a single use staked nut or a nut with a castellated cover & split pin or 'R' clip.
Slacken wheel nuts.
Jack car up & support with axle stands.
Remove road wheel.
Remove driveshaft nut.
Detach track rod end from steering arm
Undo & remove 3 bolts retaining lower suspension balljoint to the lower wishbone(Torx headed bolts)
Press on end of driveshaft as you pull the hub off the splined end of the driveshaft.
If o/s shaft undo & turn intermediate bearing retaining bolt.
Pull shaft from gearbox, noting any rubber shields on the shaft.
Refit is reverse - be careful inserting shaft into gearbox to avoid damaging seal. DON'T forget to refill gearbox.
Edited by paintman on Wednesday 30th January 21:01
2' breaker bar should do it, I use a 3' length of steel pipe over the bar end.
If you want to try & replce the CV joint in situ, don't drain gearbox, remove the driveshaft from the box or undo the intermediate retainer, just do the rest of it.
I prefer to take the shaft off as I can put it in the vice to get the CV joint off. There's a spring ring which retains it to the end of the drive shaft & they can be a bit of a pig to get the joint off. May find it helpful to compress the new spring ring with a jubilee clip to aid fitting the new Cv joint - don't forget to remove the jubilee clip afterwards!
Video from SKF showing a 206 one being done - a bit drastic!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2XAK2lAZ28
If you want to try & replce the CV joint in situ, don't drain gearbox, remove the driveshaft from the box or undo the intermediate retainer, just do the rest of it.
I prefer to take the shaft off as I can put it in the vice to get the CV joint off. There's a spring ring which retains it to the end of the drive shaft & they can be a bit of a pig to get the joint off. May find it helpful to compress the new spring ring with a jubilee clip to aid fitting the new Cv joint - don't forget to remove the jubilee clip afterwards!
Video from SKF showing a 206 one being done - a bit drastic!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2XAK2lAZ28
Edited by paintman on Wednesday 30th January 22:29
Big old hub nut on the 306. Can't remember off the top of my head but 35-36mm rings a bell? Stick the spare steel on and crack it with the car on the ground through the hole in the middle of the wheel. Ideally scavange a length of scaff to go over the bar.
Had them go on both sides at both ends on mine over the years. Inner joint gives you some gearstick shake under load, outer clicks and knocks on full lock and may make a nice humming noise when it gets hot. Inner gasket boot thing will need replacing when you refit and can be a bit of a pain to get back in and sealing right. If the outer CV has failed chances are the boot has split and the inside of the wheel will be covered in cacky black moly grease.
Had them go on both sides at both ends on mine over the years. Inner joint gives you some gearstick shake under load, outer clicks and knocks on full lock and may make a nice humming noise when it gets hot. Inner gasket boot thing will need replacing when you refit and can be a bit of a pain to get back in and sealing right. If the outer CV has failed chances are the boot has split and the inside of the wheel will be covered in cacky black moly grease.
Knocking getting progressively worse, but managed to jack the car up at lunchtime and give everything a wiggle.
There is a little bit of play in the track rod end, so I will replace those asap too. I couldn't recreate the knocking noise from the driveshaft, but figured that because it only occurs when the car is in-gear that it can't hurt to replace the whole thing to save messing around with CV boots etc. New driveshaft and gearbox oil ordered at cost of £60ish.
The fun bit is going to be getting the hub nut un-done, since this needs a 36mm socket apparently. Father in law should have one.
The interested ameteur mechanic in me is looking forward to it but I am not!
There is a little bit of play in the track rod end, so I will replace those asap too. I couldn't recreate the knocking noise from the driveshaft, but figured that because it only occurs when the car is in-gear that it can't hurt to replace the whole thing to save messing around with CV boots etc. New driveshaft and gearbox oil ordered at cost of £60ish.
The fun bit is going to be getting the hub nut un-done, since this needs a 36mm socket apparently. Father in law should have one.
The interested ameteur mechanic in me is looking forward to it but I am not!
Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff