Refitting front hubs
Discussion
Jet another question for you gents.
I'm refitting the front hubs tonight. I was having a quick read of the bible last night, reference refitting the hubs. It states something like.
"Torque hub centre nut up to 29ft lbs. then slacken nut off to allow and end float of 0.001-0.003 of an inch"
I haven't got the good book with me so the figures may not be accurate. But come on 0. Something, something of an inch. What's that mean? I don't know much about cone bearings apart from you don't want to over tighten them. Is there a more practicle approach to this or do I need to go and get a set of feeller gauges?
Cheers Again
Karl.
I'm refitting the front hubs tonight. I was having a quick read of the bible last night, reference refitting the hubs. It states something like.
"Torque hub centre nut up to 29ft lbs. then slacken nut off to allow and end float of 0.001-0.003 of an inch"
I haven't got the good book with me so the figures may not be accurate. But come on 0. Something, something of an inch. What's that mean? I don't know much about cone bearings apart from you don't want to over tighten them. Is there a more practicle approach to this or do I need to go and get a set of feeller gauges?
Cheers Again
Karl.
I use the KISS approach.... Keep it simple stupid ... once well greased tighten until you can feel resistance when turning the hub and then slacken off slightly. Fit new split pin put some grease in the cup and refit ... jobs a good un! After a bit of mileage / use check end float and re- adjust as necessary there should be just a hint of movement.. did i say fit a new split pin???
Chris
Chris
Jack Valiant said:
I use the KISS approach.... Keep it simple stupid ... once well greased tighten until you can feel resistance when turning the hub and then slacken off slightly. Fit new split pin put some grease in the cup and refit ... jobs a good un! After a bit of mileage / use check end float and re- adjust as necessary there should be just a hint of movement.. did i say fit a new split pin???
Chris
Exactly the same as this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.Chris
Dix
I heard someone say slacken off one flat on the nut? So that would be 60 degrees (as it's a hexagonal nut). Or a 1/6 of a turn.
To translate that into the end float you can look at (or measure) the thread pitch - let's say it's 50 turns per inch (for sake of argument).
Then the amount of end-float you introduce is 1/6th of a turn x 1" / 50. So that is 1/300th of an inch or 3.3 thousandths.
Simples!
To translate that into the end float you can look at (or measure) the thread pitch - let's say it's 50 turns per inch (for sake of argument).
Then the amount of end-float you introduce is 1/6th of a turn x 1" / 50. So that is 1/300th of an inch or 3.3 thousandths.
Simples!
That wasn't enough slack for me!
On a 390 with standard granada vented disks I tightened up the bearings like this and about 50 miles down the road the car almost turned right into the Armco when the bearing seized, it ended up welding the centre of the bearing to the stub axle and I had to replace that as well.
The outer bearing carrier is a big chunk of metal and quite long as well, if it expands faster than the stub axle then something has to give.
A dial gauge and magnetic holder can be got from somewhere like Screwfix quite cheaply and this can be used to measure end-float with accuracy and repeatability.
For example www.silverlinetoolbox.co.uk TBSL1549 £10.02 + TBSL1524 £10.22 should do the job.
Russ
On a 390 with standard granada vented disks I tightened up the bearings like this and about 50 miles down the road the car almost turned right into the Armco when the bearing seized, it ended up welding the centre of the bearing to the stub axle and I had to replace that as well.
The outer bearing carrier is a big chunk of metal and quite long as well, if it expands faster than the stub axle then something has to give.
A dial gauge and magnetic holder can be got from somewhere like Screwfix quite cheaply and this can be used to measure end-float with accuracy and repeatability.
For example www.silverlinetoolbox.co.uk TBSL1549 £10.02 + TBSL1524 £10.22 should do the job.
Russ
MrPicky said:
That wasn't enough slack for me!
On a 390 with standard granada vented disks I tightened up the bearings like this and about 50 miles down the road the car almost turned right into the Armco when the bearing seized, it ended up welding the centre of the bearing to the stub axle and I had to replace that as well.
The outer bearing carrier is a big chunk of metal and quite long as well, if it expands faster than the stub axle then something has to give.
A dial gauge and magnetic holder can be got from somewhere like Screwfix quite cheaply and this can be used to measure end-float with accuracy and repeatability.
For example www.silverlinetoolbox.co.uk TBSL1549 £10.02 + TBSL1524 £10.22 should do the job.
Russ
Thanks RussOn a 390 with standard granada vented disks I tightened up the bearings like this and about 50 miles down the road the car almost turned right into the Armco when the bearing seized, it ended up welding the centre of the bearing to the stub axle and I had to replace that as well.
The outer bearing carrier is a big chunk of metal and quite long as well, if it expands faster than the stub axle then something has to give.
A dial gauge and magnetic holder can be got from somewhere like Screwfix quite cheaply and this can be used to measure end-float with accuracy and repeatability.
For example www.silverlinetoolbox.co.uk TBSL1549 £10.02 + TBSL1524 £10.22 should do the job.
Russ
SoundS like a plan and got to be worth a tender.
Cheers Karl
The method I used was to stick the magnetic base onto the face of the disk.
Then
Push the disk pads back a bit to give a small amount of slack.
Take the domed nut cover out of the hub.
Remove the split pin.
Nip up the nut to ensure that the bearings are fully pushed in, slacken off the nut a bit.
(you would have done all of this if you were changing the bearings anyway).
Then
Set up the dial gauge so that is rests on the point of the stub axle (where the nut goes) and is about midway through its travel. Zero the pointer on the dial gauge.
Pull the disk (not too hard, don't raise a sweat) towards you with both hands on opposite sides of the disk and look at the reading on the needle, push it away with the same strength and look at the needle, this gives the TIR (Total Indicator Reading) - which you then check against the manual.
Either tighten or loosen the hub nut and finally put the split-pin back and check again. Then put the domed cover back on with a bit of grease to keep the bearing sweet.
If you think the disk may be warped or not properly home on the disk then you can stick the magnetic base onto the caliper and track the wheel round, try this on the shiniest bit of disk.
Russ
Then
Push the disk pads back a bit to give a small amount of slack.
Take the domed nut cover out of the hub.
Remove the split pin.
Nip up the nut to ensure that the bearings are fully pushed in, slacken off the nut a bit.
(you would have done all of this if you were changing the bearings anyway).
Then
Set up the dial gauge so that is rests on the point of the stub axle (where the nut goes) and is about midway through its travel. Zero the pointer on the dial gauge.
Pull the disk (not too hard, don't raise a sweat) towards you with both hands on opposite sides of the disk and look at the reading on the needle, push it away with the same strength and look at the needle, this gives the TIR (Total Indicator Reading) - which you then check against the manual.
Either tighten or loosen the hub nut and finally put the split-pin back and check again. Then put the domed cover back on with a bit of grease to keep the bearing sweet.
If you think the disk may be warped or not properly home on the disk then you can stick the magnetic base onto the caliper and track the wheel round, try this on the shiniest bit of disk.
Russ
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