Front Upper Wishbone Balljoint Adjustment
Discussion
I think it's been covered on here a couple of times, but I can't work out the definitive answer.
I'm making sure that everything is 'free' before I have the suspension/geometry set up correctly.
When I replaced the upper front balljoints a while back, the replacements have a larger ball than the originals. This does restrict how far you can bring the balljoint inwards (as it touches the wishbone).
I have a pair of spacers that allow for 4mm either side, instead of the 8mm towards the front - would using these have a massive effect on the geometry?
The alternative (I've seen suggested on here) is to use a grinder and remove some material, from the wishbone/balljoint?
Any ideas which is the better option?


I'm making sure that everything is 'free' before I have the suspension/geometry set up correctly.
When I replaced the upper front balljoints a while back, the replacements have a larger ball than the originals. This does restrict how far you can bring the balljoint inwards (as it touches the wishbone).
I have a pair of spacers that allow for 4mm either side, instead of the 8mm towards the front - would using these have a massive effect on the geometry?
The alternative (I've seen suggested on here) is to use a grinder and remove some material, from the wishbone/balljoint?
Any ideas which is the better option?
On my chim both spacers together on the front side [ie. side nearest the front of the car.]
I had a full geometry check at Track v Road and if anything its not the loss of adjustment by pushing the ball joint inwards its pulling it outwards enough that is usually the problem.
On mine they had to elongate the holes ever so lightly in the top wisbones to get the correct settings.
If you are having a full geometry set up its worth checking the adjuster on the lower rear wishbone is free, as they are known to seize solid.
I had a full geometry check at Track v Road and if anything its not the loss of adjustment by pushing the ball joint inwards its pulling it outwards enough that is usually the problem.
On mine they had to elongate the holes ever so lightly in the top wisbones to get the correct settings.
If you are having a full geometry set up its worth checking the adjuster on the lower rear wishbone is free, as they are known to seize solid.
i just spend most of yesterday at centre gravity, getting alignment done. moving those 4 mm spacers on mine would reduce caster by approx 3 degrees, and there is bugger all to start with. i definately noticed the difference moving 3mm of shim as a test to get more caster angle, settled for less.
as suggested by others, nip off the wishbone a little to get caster right
as suggested by others, nip off the wishbone a little to get caster right
Not all wishbones are the same .... I got a new ball joint which was the same width as the one being replaced, and a pair of spacers which together wer thicker than the original one. I found 2 things, firstly the set-up was 2mm too wide to fit, and secondly (after grinding the new spacers down to fit either side) going either side made the steering very loose at speed, there wasn't enough angle for it to centre on its own. I ended up visiting david batty for help and he put them on one side, and luckily the full adjustment wasn't needed for the camber. I've a 96 car.
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