Discovery 3 HSE, GS, S...................
Discussion
I really have a burning desire to get back into a 4x4.......
currently running a 57 plate M3, which(although I totally love it), my situation has changed and I find myself needing to tow a car, on occasions a boat, and carry several bikes on a weekly basis..........plus on the odd Kayak on the roof would be useful too.
I've toyed with the idea of keeping the Beemer and getting a 5k Defender.......but, although I haven't ruled it out.....the defenders for 5k are well, a bit rough....
I can't bring myself to pay 15/20k for a good Defender, when I can get a Disco 3 for the same budget........and save a stack by getting rid of the expensive to run M3...(I don't mean fuel)
SO, i'm looking through dealer websites, PH classifieds etc......
and whilst I understand the 'HSE' is top of the range.......is there anywhere with a clear, idiots guide for what extra spec you get in a HSE versus the lower spec levels?
Is it a case where you could buy a XS, and then add enough kit to make it up to a HSE - in that a XS could be better value for money if specced well?
I guess, I just want to make sure I buy the right model, and for 20k, I can see several HSEs with higher miles...........
any help mucho appreciated
TA
currently running a 57 plate M3, which(although I totally love it), my situation has changed and I find myself needing to tow a car, on occasions a boat, and carry several bikes on a weekly basis..........plus on the odd Kayak on the roof would be useful too.
I've toyed with the idea of keeping the Beemer and getting a 5k Defender.......but, although I haven't ruled it out.....the defenders for 5k are well, a bit rough....
I can't bring myself to pay 15/20k for a good Defender, when I can get a Disco 3 for the same budget........and save a stack by getting rid of the expensive to run M3...(I don't mean fuel)
SO, i'm looking through dealer websites, PH classifieds etc......
and whilst I understand the 'HSE' is top of the range.......is there anywhere with a clear, idiots guide for what extra spec you get in a HSE versus the lower spec levels?
Is it a case where you could buy a XS, and then add enough kit to make it up to a HSE - in that a XS could be better value for money if specced well?
I guess, I just want to make sure I buy the right model, and for 20k, I can see several HSEs with higher miles...........
any help mucho appreciated
TA
http://www.disco3.co.uk/wiki/Models_%28UK%29
Having owned an HSE, I wouldn't want anything less. Best car we've owned to date. HSE's hold their money better also.
HTH
Having owned an HSE, I wouldn't want anything less. Best car we've owned to date. HSE's hold their money better also.
HTH
Don't do it. It will break. Only once every few months if you are lucky.
If you buy, I would buy a GS with seven seats as they benefit from the air suspension over the S model. HSEs might seem to hold their value better as they are more expensive, but that's because they were a much higher price to start with. As time goes on their will be less and less difference in price. With any ageing Land Rover the more equipment there is the more there is to go wrong. An HSE will have more electronics....the biggest fault with Disco 3's.
If you buy, I would buy a GS with seven seats as they benefit from the air suspension over the S model. HSEs might seem to hold their value better as they are more expensive, but that's because they were a much higher price to start with. As time goes on their will be less and less difference in price. With any ageing Land Rover the more equipment there is the more there is to go wrong. An HSE will have more electronics....the biggest fault with Disco 3's.
I suspect a Disco 3 would cost the same if not more than the M3 to keep it working. My previous experience of a 2005 RRS was scary if it hadn't had cover for ECUs replaced under warrenty ) . My current experience of one of those defenders you mentioned in that the Land Rover Extended warrenty has some very strange exclusions of electrical components considered as wear and tear, rear screen elements that feed Hi level brake and interior heater fan resistor pack -controls fan speeds being examples and there may be more :/. So I'd say look long and hard before you leap as theres a lot of electrickery to go wrong in a D3. If thats not a worry air sprung with autobox would be my choice with leather, fit some Grabber ATs and it should be pretty much unstoppable in most conditions, ps some fixs/higher mileage maintence stuff require body off to access so costs for that work if self funded could be painful
thanks Woody - that is spectacularly helpful link. Exactly what I was looking for.
Out of interest chaps - why insisting on the auto? Is it that much better for towing? I've only every towed with manual previously.
LotusEvoraBoy......have you had experience of the D3 being that bad? There seem to be a lot about.........
Out of interest chaps - why insisting on the auto? Is it that much better for towing? I've only every towed with manual previously.
LotusEvoraBoy......have you had experience of the D3 being that bad? There seem to be a lot about.........
The auto is generally a much better car to drive. It also gives you more control, especially when manoeuvring and if you want to drive it manually, you can (flick the lever across and manually select gear).
Then, if you're towing, it'll stop you from trashing your clutch with the low speed manoeuvring.
Honestly, give it a try... The auto is so good, once you've used it, you'll wonder why you've ever wanted a manual.
M
Then, if you're towing, it'll stop you from trashing your clutch with the low speed manoeuvring.
Honestly, give it a try... The auto is so good, once you've used it, you'll wonder why you've ever wanted a manual.
M
I have a D3 HSE auto, an early one on a 54 plate. It has done 104k now and i've done 6k in it since i've bought it.
Costs so far are.
2 bulbs, £3.40
Wiper blades, £40.
Service, £105.
Seat handle, £3.46
Tyres, £920
It will need new front disc's and pads this summer. Nothing on that list apart from the handle is different to any other car. They all need consumables replaced. It's just with these car's the prices are more than with a clio.
The tyres could have been cheaper but i bought 5 Goodyear Duratrac's which are superb off/on road tyres.
It has yet to break down. Don't believe the "they all go wrong constantly" hype. Some do, but Disco3.co.uk has every fault that has ever happened, on the forum and how to fix it and likely costs.
Costs so far are.
2 bulbs, £3.40
Wiper blades, £40.
Service, £105.
Seat handle, £3.46
Tyres, £920
It will need new front disc's and pads this summer. Nothing on that list apart from the handle is different to any other car. They all need consumables replaced. It's just with these car's the prices are more than with a clio.
The tyres could have been cheaper but i bought 5 Goodyear Duratrac's which are superb off/on road tyres.
It has yet to break down. Don't believe the "they all go wrong constantly" hype. Some do, but Disco3.co.uk has every fault that has ever happened, on the forum and how to fix it and likely costs.
I think my experience and memories are somewhat skewed by the fact that I love my vehicles so much that when they break it is akin to the end of the world...sleepless nights and much worry. Just can't cope with the stress of it.
Disco we had had to go back to dealer after 3 months due to gear change sensor problems. I undertand the gearbox had to come out. It was then that they noted clutch wear and recommended replacement. In all the bill was £1000, but Land Rover select warranty covered £700 of it. I argued vehemently that it should be fully covered with no joy. On other occasions it lost power completely and went into limp mode. Upon taking it to dealer they found nothing. Dealer was crap. Once left vehicle for hours, via appointment, to waste 6 hours shopping only to return to find it had not even been glanced at. Staff were rude and obnoxious.
Electronic park brake was a major problem, often squeaking on reverse and on occasion competly jamming. Final straw was HDC fault and dash lighting up like an Xmas tree, with suspension dropped to the deck and again in limp mode. Tried all sorts but ended up being brake light switch behind brake pedal wearing and tricking the whole system that there was a major problem. Had to then do a hard reset by touching live and negative battery cables together to drain the ECU battery and memory before faults were wiped.
Always experienced problems every time a bulb was changed or blown. Electronics very weird, akin to wizardry, no logic to them. It had to go when all this happened while wife was 9 month pregnant and I was relying on it to take her to the hospital. Got it quick fixed and traded it in.
Miss it's versatility and size though, esp with newborn, and am tempted by Disco 4, or FFRR Vogue on a 10 plate or something. Can't say bye to the Lotus Evora though.
Disco we had had to go back to dealer after 3 months due to gear change sensor problems. I undertand the gearbox had to come out. It was then that they noted clutch wear and recommended replacement. In all the bill was £1000, but Land Rover select warranty covered £700 of it. I argued vehemently that it should be fully covered with no joy. On other occasions it lost power completely and went into limp mode. Upon taking it to dealer they found nothing. Dealer was crap. Once left vehicle for hours, via appointment, to waste 6 hours shopping only to return to find it had not even been glanced at. Staff were rude and obnoxious.
Electronic park brake was a major problem, often squeaking on reverse and on occasion competly jamming. Final straw was HDC fault and dash lighting up like an Xmas tree, with suspension dropped to the deck and again in limp mode. Tried all sorts but ended up being brake light switch behind brake pedal wearing and tricking the whole system that there was a major problem. Had to then do a hard reset by touching live and negative battery cables together to drain the ECU battery and memory before faults were wiped.
Always experienced problems every time a bulb was changed or blown. Electronics very weird, akin to wizardry, no logic to them. It had to go when all this happened while wife was 9 month pregnant and I was relying on it to take her to the hospital. Got it quick fixed and traded it in.
Miss it's versatility and size though, esp with newborn, and am tempted by Disco 4, or FFRR Vogue on a 10 plate or something. Can't say bye to the Lotus Evora though.
Please note your going to be buying in winter, when prices are high.
You should wait till spring unless you see the colour and spec combo you want.
Ask if it's had the belts done if 7 years old or 105k, if it's had a battery or alternator as they can throw up issues if it's a crap one.
Also, they are heavy car's so bushes, ball joints and wheel bearings may have/need changed.
You can check it's mot history online if you get the numbers, i did and it shows where it got tested, miles, pass/fail and any advisories.
You should wait till spring unless you see the colour and spec combo you want.
Ask if it's had the belts done if 7 years old or 105k, if it's had a battery or alternator as they can throw up issues if it's a crap one.
Also, they are heavy car's so bushes, ball joints and wheel bearings may have/need changed.
You can check it's mot history online if you get the numbers, i did and it shows where it got tested, miles, pass/fail and any advisories.
Going from the M3 to the Disco 3 be very careful at junctions and roundabouts and anywhere else that someone lets you out. It will be a bit of shock the first time you press your right foot down and the car doesn't actually go anywhere for 2 seconds. The worst is where someone flashes to let you out, you press the accelerator. They flash again as you haven't moved and they think you haven't seen them and then just as they get the hump at being snubbed and move forwards the Disco wakes up and lurches you into their path. 
mattdaniels said:
Going from the M3 to the Disco 3 be very careful at junctions and roundabouts and anywhere else that someone lets you out. It will be a bit of shock the first time you press your right foot down and the car doesn't actually go anywhere for 2 seconds. The worst is where someone flashes to let you out, you press the accelerator. They flash again as you haven't moved and they think you haven't seen them and then just as they get the hump at being snubbed and move forwards the Disco wakes up and lurches you into their path.
This can be an issue, i stick it into command shift, knock it down into 1st and then move back to D.The car will try and pull away in 2nd, which can leave you doing what Matt above said.
mattdaniels said:
A.J.M said:
i stick it into command shift, knock it down into 1st and then move back to D.
I never even thought of doing that. I didn't realise it was trying to pull away in second. 
for you now. Mine pulls away fine when knocked into 1st, stamp on the loud pedal and if you are still in command shift you can do full bore upshifts to get up to speed quicker.
mattdaniels said:
Going from the M3 to the Disco 3 be very careful at junctions and roundabouts and anywhere else that someone lets you out. It will be a bit of shock the first time you press your right foot down and the car doesn't actually go anywhere for 2 seconds. The worst is where someone flashes to let you out, you press the accelerator. They flash again as you haven't moved and they think you haven't seen them and then just as they get the hump at being snubbed and move forwards the Disco wakes up and lurches you into their path.
It hasn't got any better, having this problem at the moment on a D4 2012 with the new 8 speed transmission.It's so annoying and never fails to get me wound up on a daily basis especially when trying to exit give ways, roundabouts etc and the above happens. It can be quite dangerous at times !
I have resorted to sticking it in 'sand mode' which quickens the throttle action up a bit and also using the manual paddles for shifting, it's better but not perfect !
Apparently LR are aware of the problem and are in talks with ZF who supply their boxes but they haven't come up with a solution yet !
Roll on the first available remap for the latest software !
Peely said:
camel_landy said:
Sand mode 'aint gonna work on a D4...
M
Trust me .....it does !M
Makes a terrible throttle response much better.......but nowhere near perfect !
If it was a D3, yes, but on the D4, the 'Sand' programme was one of the ones changed.
On the D3, the 'Sand' programme gives you a more aggressive throttle response, all the way through the range. However, when moving off from stationary, an aggressive throttle will increase the chance of the car just digging into the sand.
on the D4, 'Sand' mode gives a gentle & progressive throttle response, until the car is moving and once above approx 5mph, it switches to a more aggressive throttle mapping.
If you don't believe me, find a long, empty stretch of road & try this:
- Stop.
- Stick the Terrain Response into 'Normal'.
- Floor it and accelerate up to 20mph.
- Stop.
M
No, think you've took my response out of context.
Your right it doesn't make any difference when moving from standstill, but does go like a scalded cat !
In sand mode when approaching roundabouts, give ways etc the car will be in the right gear, ie it will change down to a ratio that will enable it to respond quicker to throttle input instead of being a gear or even two gears to high.
You can actually feel the car change down more aggressively, but this can be overcome by using the paddles, and therefore the throttle is much more responsive and is in the correct gear when you need it to be !
Been using it for the last month or so, deffo works for me and a few others who suggested it to me !
Your right it doesn't make any difference when moving from standstill, but does go like a scalded cat !
In sand mode when approaching roundabouts, give ways etc the car will be in the right gear, ie it will change down to a ratio that will enable it to respond quicker to throttle input instead of being a gear or even two gears to high.
You can actually feel the car change down more aggressively, but this can be overcome by using the paddles, and therefore the throttle is much more responsive and is in the correct gear when you need it to be !
Been using it for the last month or so, deffo works for me and a few others who suggested it to me !
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