Need new bearing for the 'false' power steering pump...help!
Discussion
I posted up the size and a supplier some time ago after doing mine ... You'll need to press out the old bearing but it's a piece of piss...
1 x 33052RS Budget Rubber Sealed Double Row Angular Contact Ball Bearing 25x62x25.4mm
Option's £25.60 £25.60
From https://simplybearings.co.uk
1 x 33052RS Budget Rubber Sealed Double Row Angular Contact Ball Bearing 25x62x25.4mm
Option's £25.60 £25.60
From https://simplybearings.co.uk
Yup - sounds like it - it's the idler pulley that replaces the power steering pump, yes?
I used the bearing above - if I was doing it again I would go for a metal sealed rather than rubber sealed and probably go for a non-budget one - for no other reason than I just think that I should as the bearing that I listed there works absolutely perfectly and has been working in mine for 18 months easily.
I used the bearing above - if I was doing it again I would go for a metal sealed rather than rubber sealed and probably go for a non-budget one - for no other reason than I just think that I should as the bearing that I listed there works absolutely perfectly and has been working in mine for 18 months easily.
Bassfiend229hp said:
I posted up the size and a supplier some time ago after doing mine ... You'll need to press out the old bearing but it's a piece of piss...
1 x 33052RS Budget Rubber Sealed Double Row Angular Contact Ball Bearing 25x62x25.4mm
Option's £25.60 £25.60
From https://simplybearings.co.uk
cheers Phil.1 x 33052RS Budget Rubber Sealed Double Row Angular Contact Ball Bearing 25x62x25.4mm
Option's £25.60 £25.60
From https://simplybearings.co.uk
Spot on.
Nosh
Nosh said:
Bassfiend229hp said:
You'll need to press out the old bearing but it's a piece of piss...
Phil,Piece of piss??
Nosh said:
Can you take the bearing housing off?
The entire casting that the bearing sits in can be removed easily - Going completely from memory the "process" was, use a small socket set to loosen the three bolts that hold the pulley to the pulley shaft.Remove the belt and then remove the three bolts that hold the pulley to the shaft, remove the pulley itself (this may require slight persuasion with a small knockometer) to allow access to the bolts that hold the bearing housing to the engine.
The entire bearing housing, bearing and pulley shaft can then be removed from the engine bay.
Nosh said:
And if so, can the bearing be knocked out from one side?
Once removed from the engine bay, hold the pulley shaft flange (that the pulley bolts to) in a vice and remove the recessed bolt that is in the back of the bearing housing (that secures the shaft into the bearing). Once that bolt is removed then the shaft can be tapped out with a hammer. You now have a bearing housing with a (knackered) bearing embedded in it - you now need a basic hydraulic press to push the old bearing out and the new bearing in. When I did mine mine we cut the inner bearing ring, removed it and the ball bearings and used the outer housing to press the new bearing in - this means that you're not putting the insertion strain on the actual bearings as you're pressing the outer housing directly.
From there on it's the old Haynes favourite - reassembly is the reverse of removal.
Nosh said:
Hey Phil,
Well - got the bearing ok, but have been busy removing precats today....
....and the buggers beat me - today.....
Is there a knack to it?
Nosh
What exactly has beaten you? Mine came apart easily. Well, "easily" in so far as needing to use a press to get the "old" bearing out and the new bearing into the housing (which you'd normally expect to do).Well - got the bearing ok, but have been busy removing precats today....
....and the buggers beat me - today.....
Is there a knack to it?
Nosh
All,
Thanks for all the advice - bearing changed - no more noises!! The old bearing was fully b
ksed!
Also, both manifolds no longer have precats and not need prepping for painting.
I will prob go with the POR silver HT paint once the pipes have been shot blasted with a light dusting
Nosh
Thanks for all the advice - bearing changed - no more noises!! The old bearing was fully b
ksed!Also, both manifolds no longer have precats and not need prepping for painting.
I will prob go with the POR silver HT paint once the pipes have been shot blasted with a light dusting
Nosh
Nosh said:
All,
Thanks for all the advice - bearing changed - no more noises!! The old bearing was fully bksed!
Also, both manifolds no longer have precats and not need prepping for painting.
I will prob go with the POR silver HT paint once the pipes have been shot blasted with a light dusting
Nosh
Pay special attention to the manifold flanges where they meet the heads Phil Thanks for all the advice - bearing changed - no more noises!! The old bearing was fully b
ksed!Also, both manifolds no longer have precats and not need prepping for painting.
I will prob go with the POR silver HT paint once the pipes have been shot blasted with a light dusting
Nosh
if there is any corrosion or cratering this can be dressed of carefully with a file and patience and will give you a longer life out of your gaskets .......... hopefully. Sardonicus said:
ay special attention to the manifold flanges where they meet the heads Phil if there is any corrosion or cratering this can be dressed of carefully with a file and patience and will give you a longer life out of your gaskets .......... hopefully.
Cheers Simon - I will be taking my time and remembering the advice offered!! if there is any corrosion or cratering this can be dressed of carefully with a file and patience and will give you a longer life out of your gaskets .......... hopefully. Also fitted new dizzy cap, HT leads and rotor arm today - the old HT leads looked pretty mange to be honest....
Nosh.
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