MOT Advisory - ARB drop links

[RayTVR]

Looking for advice on the following; At the last MOT my car had an advisory on play in the ARB rose joints(They are the Steve Heath ones I believe)

Any one know if it's possible and easy to replace the rose joints, or what the options are for replacing the links?

[phillpot]

No idea if originals are still available should you wish to revert to them but I'm sure some one like Adrian @ will be able to help you?

To repair the Steve Heath items McGill Motorsport should be able to sort you out with some replacement rod ends (rose joints)

[Ragtop]

Hi Ray,

If they are the Steve Heath variety, they should look like this:

https://shengltd.com/catalog/images/S-droplink.jpg

Should be easy to take them off, unscrew the joints, find out which ones are worn and get replacements from the likes of Mcgill Motorsport.

Have fun!
Graham

[RayTVR]

Actually a pretty easy job - the top joints feel fine but the bottom (smaller) ones are shot.

These on order from McGills, then will spend a bit of time getting them adjusted so they are vertical, hopefully to reduce future wear.

http://www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/index.php?act=v...

The bad news is that while the car is up of the ground I can see that the engine mounts look really soft = to the extent the sump and ARB are touching - so another job on the list (Sighs)

Edited by RayTVR on Friday 8th February 17:16

[TVR-Stu]

RayTVR said:

The bad news is that while the car is up of the ground I can see that the engine mounts look really soft = to the extent the sump and ARB are touching - so another job on the list (Sighs)

Not the nicest of jobs if you haven't done it before unless you have child size hands that can bend in every direction!

Bit of advice here and here that may help.

Good luck.

[RayTVR]

Thanks Stu - Not looking forward to this at all - As my car has the original exhausts on I think I may have a job seperating the exhaust - If I have to get the manifolds off then I'm really in trouble as those bolts look like they've been in a long,long time. Maybe doing the long-planned exhaust change and the mounts may be best done together?

[glenrobbo]

Hi Ray,
For engine mount replacement, I definitely recommend getting a 17mm flexy head ratchet ring spanner with the finest toothed ratchet you can find.
It makes the job almost possible. It's a PITA.
I got my mounts from Burton Performance, you need the 2" ones.

If you are tackling the manifolds, start soaking the threads with Plus Gas every day for a week, to give half a chance of success. And don't force any nut/ bolt, give it a tap & more Plus Gas, leave it for a bit while you try another.
Patience is the key.
Good luck,
Glen.

[RayTVR]

Thanks glen

Understand the need for scanners as the room to turn is very limited by the brackets

Is there a reason a deep socket won't do the job?

[glenrobbo]

A temporary solution to sagging engine mounts is to fit shims like these between the rubber and the engine bracket. I bought these from ny local DIY shop & slotted them to slide in between.
HTH.

[glenrobbo]

RayTVR said:

Thanks glen

Understand the need for scanners as the room to turn is very limited by the brackets

Is there a reason a deep socket won't do the job?

YES. You'll need the spanner I mentioned for the bottom nut of each mount, as there us minimal access to the back of the bracket fixed into the bodyshell.
You'll see what I mean. It's a bd
Have fun!

Edit: Access is made easier with the front wheels off, but make sure your S is safe on axle stands before you start thrutching about. SAFETY.

Edited by glenrobbo on Friday 8th February 22:47

[TurboTony]

RayTVR said:

Is there a reason a deep socket won't do the job?

No room. In fact, the ratchet ring is marginal. I unbolted the engine mounts from the engine as well to help the job. Worth doing a Google search as there is good advice on this forum. It is a PITA - you should allow a weekend to undo 4 nuts and replace same ! I would be tempted to make a hole in the transmission tunnel if I had to do the job again.

[phillpot]

Top nut off, remove mounting bracket from engine block then jiggle a ring spanner onto bottom nut and turn rubber block with one of those cheap little oil filter chain chappies .

[RayTVR]

Cunning idea Mike - Do they make one for an S shaped blob rather than something thats round?