Costs of recovery from deep hibernation
Costs of recovery from deep hibernation
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G21

Original Poster:

64 posts

283 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
I'm ashamed to write this but I've left my 1995 400 Chimaera in the garage for three years (there was a very good reason for the first 6 months and then I just couldnt afford to get it back running again and was in the midsts of study hell). However, now I'd like to get it back on the road and I'd be extremely grateful if anyone has any pointers.

The first issue is electrical (the reason it didnt start 3 years ago), and I hope this isnt too much of challenge for a bright spark auto electrian to sort out. When the battery is charged, all the electrics work including the fuel pump but when you turn the key to start the engine there is literally nothing. Any ideas? Immobilisor?

The second issue is how much is it going to cost to get it back on the road (electrics issue aside)? I'm guessing that a new battery, plugs, leads would be a good idea, but if its been standing for so long what other problems and issues would there be? (it has been kept in a dry garage all the time and the battery has been re-charged periodically. It was kept in very good working order for the preceding 7 years by me - well an excellent mecahnic I know).

I've set aside about £1,000 to get it going again.

As said above, any help would be appreciated.

Podie

46,649 posts

305 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
Tyres could well be knackered.

I'd consider a full service and new brake fluid as a bare minimum. At that point an MOT should point out any other issues.

G21

Original Poster:

64 posts

283 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
Thanks guys, tyres look ok, but I'd be tempted to get at least new back tyres anyway. Judging by your response, I think I should!

I live in Jersey so no MOT, obviously happy to get a full service.

MPoxon

5,329 posts

203 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
Full service, replace all the fluids, check the brakes and like others have said I would certainly replace the tyres. Mine had the original tyres on when I purchased and although the still had plenty of tread they were like rocks and bloody scarey to drive on.

Good luck with getting the car back on the road - I bet you are looking forward to it smile

G21

Original Poster:

64 posts

283 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
Thanks again guys. I've been investigating tyres. Hopefully I can stay within budget.

I was concerned about a more expensive outlay and yes, I'm very much looking forward to that moment of getting back and starting up. Nothing beats that feeling.

Will sort pics.

Robert Lees

550 posts

171 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
custodian said:
post some pics before and after. Should be worth seeing
+1

as others have said, tyres and brakes, would the shocks have seized up?

again full service, engine, diff,gearbox oil replaced, brake fluid, clutch fluid.
drain radiator and refill etc. New plugs..... Reset clock smile

all the above usually done by tvr specialist at full service (£500~) etc but not sure how many there will be in Jersey.

Good luck!

G21

Original Poster:

64 posts

283 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
I think £500 for a truly full service sounds right, plus £350-400 for tyres and hopefully £100 for electrics. Might have to throw in a couple of tow trucks in there too.

Luckily I know a very good mechanic, not a TVR specialist, but has done all the other work on my p&j to a very high standard.

That pesky clock.

Julesprivate

871 posts

173 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
G21 said:
When the battery is charged, all the electrics work including the fuel pump but when you turn the key to start the engine there is literally nothing. Any ideas? Immobilisor?
Immobilisor or starter solenoid are the most likely culprits. When my starter packed up turning the key resulted in absolutely nothing, no click, no whirr just serene silence.

Easy enough to check, but easier to do from underneath.. Check for 12V on the smaller cable feeding the solenoid (the one that triggers it) and also for 12V on the large cable (the one that turns the starter), the trigger one will only have 12V with the key turned to the start position.

If you are on your own and want to do a "quick and dirty" check then make sure the car is in neutral, turn the ignition on, listen for the fuel pump (that's also fed from the immobiliser so if that doesn't make any noise that could be another pointer) assuming it primes take a small piece of electrical cable and attach one end to the large diameter cable on the solenoid.... then just touch that to the 12V trigger on the solenoid.

At that point you'll either scare yourself witless as the car cranks and possibly even starts or nothing happens and you will be reasonably certain that the solenoid/starter is duff.

You could also bridge the connection tot he solenoid (i.e. the two big cables) with a screwdriver and that should spin the starter.

Obviously it's MUCH better to take it off the car and test it, but if you're looking for a quick test then try that...

Julesprivate

871 posts

173 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
Oh and if it is the immobilisor don't forget to thump the top of the dash to see if that frees it off.

If you have a "hot start kit" fitted, check the relay in that too...

G21

Original Poster:

64 posts

283 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
Jules, thank you very much. I can manage that. I'll have a look at the weekend. wherebouts on the dashboard to thump? I'm concerned it might fall down if I do that!

Julesprivate

871 posts

173 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
Left of centre (on top) if you see what I mean.. Sit in the drivers seat, lean left and thump the underside of the dash while turning the key.

It'll only help if it's a sticking relay (as opposed to a burnt out contact) but it's not unheard of for it to work :-)

Good Luck

Edited by Julesprivate on Wednesday 13th February 19:28

QBee

22,502 posts

174 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
Be wary of driving it to the mechanic if it does start. I gave heard a few tales of people who started a car after three years, the oil was knackered, blew the engine en route. Get it collected on a trailer.

loud430

550 posts

213 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
also check all the fuel pipes, if its been sat that long they may be perished.

QBee

22,502 posts

174 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
loud430 said:
also check all the fuel pipes, if its been sat that long they may be perished.
Mine had done less than 1000 miles in the previous three years when I bought it. Fuel lines were a fire hazard, so good advice loud430.

They are drivers side, above the rear most spark plug.

Alun450

12,424 posts

179 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
Fuel lines, yes first job I had to do to mine, sound advice!

G21

Original Poster:

64 posts

283 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
Fuel lines- check. Thank you. Another tow truck trailer needed but sounds like a necessity.

G

caduceus

6,130 posts

296 months

Wednesday 13th February 2013
quotequote all
After that amount of time it might be prudent to remove the plugs ad squirt a little oil into the bores before first fire up.

swisstoni

24,078 posts

309 months

Thursday 14th February 2013
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Just get the old chap from Chasing Classic Cars to blow on the spark plugs smile

Good luck with it - 3 years isn't all that long for a car to stand.