fuel pipe tool??
fuel pipe tool??
Author
Discussion

brettster

Original Poster:

146 posts

269 months

Wednesday 20th February 2013
quotequote all
To remove the rear fuel pipe on my 2.9s the manual says i need a special tool. Does anyone know or is there any other way of removing it from the engine block without it??
Many thanks for any help
brettster

phillpot

17,509 posts

212 months

Wednesday 20th February 2013
quotequote all

Is it a "Guest" type fitting?



If so you just need to push the front of the fitting (bit nearest the pipe) inwards towards the body of the fitting with a pair of pliers or similar then pipe should pull out.

brettster

Original Poster:

146 posts

269 months

Wednesday 20th February 2013
quotequote all
Phillpot, you are a mind of information!!!
Thank you once again.
brettster

brettster

Original Poster:

146 posts

269 months

Wednesday 20th February 2013
quotequote all
happy days all sorted, now all ive gotta do is get the inlet manifold off.
Then sort the head gaskets out!!
My fault, should not of run the engine overheating!!!
What an idiot!!

Barry S1

1,709 posts

218 months

Wednesday 20th February 2013
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Hi Brett
where are you in Essex

Barry

brettster

Original Poster:

146 posts

269 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
About 10 mins from basildon, a small place called stanford le hope

brettster

Original Poster:

146 posts

269 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
Had a bit of trouble with my s lately, overheated and blew a head gasket as far as i know. frown

glenrobbo

40,471 posts

179 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
brettster said:
Had a bit of trouble with my s lately, overheated and blew a head gasket as far as i know. frown
Brett,
Check out your radiator cooling fan.

Does it spin freely by hand?
Has the fuse blown?
Is the otter switch working?
Has the wiring loom melted?
Is the fan relay working?

Did you notice any drive belt squeal before the temp went high?
Seizing fan causes heavy electrical load on the alternator.

First find & remedy the cause, then you can address the effects.

And always keep an eye on your gauges & warning lights.

( That's how I manage to drive 15 miles with my indicators on ) .

Just trying to help.

Oh, & make sure your cooling system is up to scratch.
Ask Barry smile

Edited by glenrobbo on Thursday 21st February 02:07

brettster

Original Poster:

146 posts

269 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
What happened glen was one of the wires that connects to the pipe that goes into the top of the radiator had come off, so the water was not circulating, and being a numpty, i tried to drive it home which resulted in it overheating and head damage. It was only when it was to late that i noticed the wire and re-connected it, the water started to circulate, but the damage was done. My own stupid fault mate.frown

phillpot

17,509 posts

212 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
brettster said:
What happened glen was ..............
confused the wires to the "otter" switch ? they control the fan which should only be needed in slow traffic or maybe very hot weather.
The water is circulated by the water pump, driven by the "fan" belt.

brettster

Original Poster:

146 posts

269 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
It was in a traffic jam in the summer so that sounds about right. Sorry when i said the water started to circulate, i meant it started warming up above the 'otter' switch. (by the way, sorry for being dumb, but what is an'otter' switch?)


Edited by brettster on Thursday 21st February 10:24

phillpot

17,509 posts

212 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
The "Otter" switch is the heat sensative switch clamped to the metal section of the top hose going to the radiator (should have two wires going to it). When it gets up to a certain temperature it makes and the fan comes on.


Griffinr

1,017 posts

203 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
phillpot said:
The "Otter" switch is the heat sensative switch clamped to the metal section of the top hose going to the radiator (should have two wires going to it). When it gets up to a certain temperature it makes and the fan comes on.

So it switches when it gets otter! laughgetmecoat
Rob.

brettster

Original Poster:

146 posts

269 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
Very good. So i just basically boiled my engine as i did not realise the wire was not connected.frown
What an idiot!!!

GadgeS3C

4,727 posts

193 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
Griffinr said:
So it switches when it gets otter! laughgetmecoat
Rob.
I thought it was caused an "otter" switch 'cos when it fails and the engine gets "otter" you say "dam".

Sorry redcard

BTW - I know otters don't build dams but they otter...

I will now getmecoat

Brettster - hope it's not too badly damaged.

Griffinr

1,017 posts

203 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
brettster said:
Very good. So i just basically boiled my engine as i did not realise the wire was not connected.frown
What an idiot!!!
Might not have done any damage though as its an all iron lump. Boiled mine last summer when a heater hose blew and dumped half the water. New hose and filled it up and its been fine since.
Rob.

brettster

Original Poster:

146 posts

269 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
Thanks gadge, i have had a diagnosis done by a machanic friend and he said ive done a head gasket, so fingers crossed should not be to bad. All stripped down at the mo, and also while its apart, can do some cleaning. Just sent the rocker covers in to be shotblasted and powder coated. Well happy smile

ijbd

76 posts

254 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
brettster said:
Had a bit of trouble with my s lately, overheated and blew a head gasket as far as i know. frown
you did not say how you concluded the head gasket is blown?
There are two anyway, and replacing them is no small task.
You will need things like a Hayes manual and torque wrench.
My engine survived two boilovers without damage, radiator leak.

So test it first, fill up the cooling system.
Bleed the cooling system of air, as described, for example, in the bible.

A stubbornly remaining stream of bubbles out of the open radiator cap is probably cylinder (exhaust) gas passing into the coolingwater via a gasket. Usually these are small bubbles, not the big burps of entrapped air.

If bubbling is absent, you still may have a small leak that only leaks under more engine load.
So start using the car for short trips while keeping an eye on water disappearing from the system.
Do not decide too quickly it is a gasket leak, bleeding the cooling system is difficult and may need some cycles of heat-up, cool-down and top-up.
Also in this period watch your oil, for signs of cooling water getting in there. I think my S3C gets oil for valves and hydraulic adjusters via a pressure oil channel through these gaskets, so in theory the gasket can be blown that way too. Not likely though.

mvg Boudewijn

brettster

Original Poster:

146 posts

269 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
As far as i know, (this was my mechanic friend telling me) water on a spark plug was found and also when we turned the engine over without the cap on, the preasure of the water blasted out, which he told me means water in the piston chamber, another sign. Anyway, the engine is almost stripped now and i will find out. At the end of the day, he is a mechanic, and knows what hes doing, so with his tools and me making the cups of tea, we should have it back on the road in the not too distant future. But im not rushing as its not quite the right weather yet. Plus i have a lot of cleaning to do.
Thanks for all your input
very helpful

phillpot

17,509 posts

212 months

Thursday 21st February 2013
quotequote all
Plenum bolt (and a spare) in post.

Your "muckanic" no doubt knows but head bolts are "stretch bolts" and should not be re-used.

just a little more expense wink