Valley Gasket fitting
Valley Gasket fitting
Author
Discussion

Nigel_350I

Original Poster:

119 posts

257 months

Monday 20th September 2004
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Hi Folks, I'm a new Wedge owner and apologise up front for asking dumb questions that have probably been asked 100 times before. I'm tracking down a rough running problem and am pretty convinced now that I have a air leak somewhere on the inlet side and am going to cahnge the valley gasket. Does anyone have any hints/tips or do's/don't do's when changing this gasket.

Thanks in advance for your help

Nigel


gsx600

2,740 posts

270 months

Monday 20th September 2004
quotequote all
Have you tried the usual of spraying lighter fuel / carb cleaner around all the inlet hoses to see if reves rise ?

Other than that if you taking valley gasket of, I sem to remember having to take the plenum chamber of to get to a couple of bolts to re torq them up. Make sure correct torq as otherwise water gets in the engine alot! As mine was !
Then be methodical and remember what pipe / connector goes where when you remove the inlet manifold, don't leave it off for ages as you forget what goes where or take loads of digi pics

Nigel_350I

Original Poster:

119 posts

257 months

Monday 20th September 2004
quotequote all
Thanks for the reply. I tried spraying round sticky grease and couldn't get a consistant change, Took the plenum off and re-sealed it (cured it for a 10 mins run then back to usual)Idle speed hunts (regular throbs)and it's low on power. This work may have moved something temporarily, thats why I think the maybe the inlet manifold. Clamped most hoses off in turn and didn't notice anything untoward. The Co2 screw on airmeter and throttle were screwed closed when i got it so it's been adjusted to try and run richer but it's running lean and no more adjustment (one of the main reasons I think it's running lean). If I manually push the flap forward on air meter whilst it's idling(make the ECU think more air and therefore increase mixture) revs rise. Etra air valve starts to close as engine warms as it should and coolant temp sensor is correct ohms at cold and warm. Airmeter pot track looks good and Fuel pressure is good at 28-30+ PSI. I've a few more electrical checks to do then I think the inlet manifold needs to come off hence the question re the gasket fitting. I also don't like the look of where the throttle bodies fit the manifold so may be a leak there.
Thanks for your help, I'm not sure of the torque settings for the manifold so if you have a figure I'd much appreciate it. I'm also told gasket goo around the water ways and the end seals is a must.
Thanks again, I saw your post re your engine change/rebuild.. congrats on it going!!

gsx600

2,740 posts

270 months

Monday 20th September 2004
quotequote all
From my memory, will check when I'm home, it was 38lbs /inch for the manifold.

I used a brnad new tin gasket with no sealant as the pressings looked quite deep, with no sealant as ran out / could not find it.

I paid particular attention to the 4 ends where the water ways were to make sure all evenly torqed as did not want more water in my engine again.

Hopefully all will be leak free on a proper journey ! Or the 2 miles to the TVRCC meet tomorrow night

Nigel_350I

Original Poster:

119 posts

257 months

Monday 20th September 2004
quotequote all
Thanks, I got the tip on gasket goo from the TVR garage in callander where I got the gasket. It's also a tin one I have so thats what I'll be using. I hope you stay leak free for your meet. If you manage to check the torque settings that would be really helpful. Cheers

chrisj

517 posts

277 months

Tuesday 21st September 2004
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Make sure you thoroughly clean around the edge of the valley gasket before removal to prevent any little bits of cack getting into the engine.
Otherwise fitting is quite straight forward.

Nigel_350I

Original Poster:

119 posts

257 months

Tuesday 21st September 2004
quotequote all
Thanks Chris.

I was thinking should I drain the Whole cooling system first or will I get away with just loosing whats around the manifold and top up after completed. Anyone got any thoughts?

chrisj

517 posts

277 months

Wednesday 22nd September 2004
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If I were you I'd drain at least half the coolant, just to make sure the level is below the inlet manifold so when you remove the top hose you don't dump coolant everywhere.
Also be very careful when you remove the inlet manifold. Often the coolant stays in them even after draining the system so keep it level when removing.
I found this out the hard way!

Nigel_350I

Original Poster:

119 posts

257 months

Wednesday 22nd September 2004
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Chris,Thanks, sounds like a good approach.
Cheers

Nigel_350I

Original Poster:

119 posts

257 months

Wednesday 29th September 2004
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Thanks for replies/help. The valley gasket went on fine but didn't cure the problem.....Now getting the multimeter back out to check all things electrical and fuel injection related.....

wedg1e

27,007 posts

287 months

Wednesday 29th September 2004
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I thought fuel pressure was more like 2.5 bar (37 psi?) - or is that just the 3.9 upwards?
May explain why it's too lean.

Nigel_350I

Original Poster:

119 posts

257 months

Thursday 30th September 2004
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Hi, Thanks. Fuel pressure I think is ok, maxs out at 35psi depending on vacuum. I spent some time checking everything electrical on the injection set up, found nothing wrong - but now it runs fine. I think moving around the ECU connector and re-connecting it several times has cured the problem. I'll be sytrpping it down to look foir poor joints later...
Thanks