Discussion
As Ian said, also:
Had a similar problem, according to the TVR handbook mine did not have the 2 fuse / relay mod but it has, so it was either fitted earlier by TVR or applied as a post delivery upgrade by the dealers.
In my case Fuse 1 (first on left) had a 15amp fuse not the 40 as per the book and also Fuse 19 (the horn fuse) had been upgraded from 15 to 25. I think the upgraded cars have 25 in both, I suggest you check these first and also try the horn to see if it works.
The chances are that if a fuse has blown the fan has probably ceased. Try turning it with a the end of a screwdriver and comparing it to the working one. If its stiff or feels notchy then the chances are that this is the problem and it will blow the fuse again. If this is the case its a £100+ for a fan and a radiator out job.
On the basis it probably can't make things any worse its worth trying to lubricate the inners with WD40, depending on the model there may be a nylon covered access hole that you can use or you may need to remove the top cover which from memory involves removing all 8 screws at the top, but be careful the inner ones are prone to cease and can snap.
Good Luck
R
Had a similar problem, according to the TVR handbook mine did not have the 2 fuse / relay mod but it has, so it was either fitted earlier by TVR or applied as a post delivery upgrade by the dealers.
In my case Fuse 1 (first on left) had a 15amp fuse not the 40 as per the book and also Fuse 19 (the horn fuse) had been upgraded from 15 to 25. I think the upgraded cars have 25 in both, I suggest you check these first and also try the horn to see if it works.
The chances are that if a fuse has blown the fan has probably ceased. Try turning it with a the end of a screwdriver and comparing it to the working one. If its stiff or feels notchy then the chances are that this is the problem and it will blow the fuse again. If this is the case its a £100+ for a fan and a radiator out job.
On the basis it probably can't make things any worse its worth trying to lubricate the inners with WD40, depending on the model there may be a nylon covered access hole that you can use or you may need to remove the top cover which from memory involves removing all 8 screws at the top, but be careful the inner ones are prone to cease and can snap.
Good Luck
R
Out of interest what sort of temps and usage will get the fans kicking in? Is it only in Summer weather when they cut in?
Take today as an example, dry 7 or 8 deg C, if you were to go out for a blat, and then find yourself sitting in London traffic for 10 or 15 mins, I assume they will kick in?
Just wondering whilst I wait to take ownership, plus reading about Garlick's Chim's non-working fans didn't help.
Take today as an example, dry 7 or 8 deg C, if you were to go out for a blat, and then find yourself sitting in London traffic for 10 or 15 mins, I assume they will kick in?
Just wondering whilst I wait to take ownership, plus reading about Garlick's Chim's non-working fans didn't help.
Yeah the fans will kick in while sitting in traffic even on a cold day.
To the OP - as many have said, check the connections. Swapping them round will tell you if it is the fan (same fan still not turning) or the feed (other fan runs).
Check the earths with a multi meter to make sure they are OK.
Take the connector off the otter switch and short the connections with a wire loop so you don't have to run the engine up to temp to check. Switch the ignition on and the fans (or one at least) should run.
I had similar issues and found the wiring from the loom up to the connector had, at some time in the past been cut and jointed with a nasty crimp connector on the earth. I cut both back sets back and made up new connectors with a tail of wire then jointed them into the old wires with a soldered connection.
To the OP - as many have said, check the connections. Swapping them round will tell you if it is the fan (same fan still not turning) or the feed (other fan runs).
Check the earths with a multi meter to make sure they are OK.
Take the connector off the otter switch and short the connections with a wire loop so you don't have to run the engine up to temp to check. Switch the ignition on and the fans (or one at least) should run.
I had similar issues and found the wiring from the loom up to the connector had, at some time in the past been cut and jointed with a nasty crimp connector on the earth. I cut both back sets back and made up new connectors with a tail of wire then jointed them into the old wires with a soldered connection.
SteveGriff said:
I am thinking of putting the fans on to a permanent live so that they run when the ignition is of if required - I did this to my S4 and it worked well. It beats leaving the ignition on when you have parked up.
Much easier to just pop the rear edge of the bonnet if circumstances allow. Also, if the water pump's not turning is there much advantage from cooling the radiator?SteveGriff said:
Digger said:
Seriously?! The fans aren't designed to keep running (if needed) once you switch off the ignition?
Remind me to buy a fire-extinguisher.
But if you stop the car and the engine is so hot that the cooling fans have kicked in, why would you want them to stop?Remind me to buy a fire-extinguisher.
Could it be because they didnt want there to be any extra drain on the battery?
Mod-wise two stage fan system works this well.
Set half speed fan operation at a lower temp of your choice, then full speed fan operation at a higher temp of your choice.
Switch ignition off and if the fans are in full speed operation they stay on until the lower temp is reached.
Otter switch remains in the system as a fail safe.
Set half speed fan operation at a lower temp of your choice, then full speed fan operation at a higher temp of your choice.
Switch ignition off and if the fans are in full speed operation they stay on until the lower temp is reached.
Otter switch remains in the system as a fail safe.
V8 TVR said:
Just a further question though,regarding shorting the otter switch with a wire loop - how do I do this? (sorry a bit of a novice!)
Pull the connector off the otter switch and then get a short piece of wire with a spade connector on each end (you can use just bare wire but its easier to get a firm connection) and push tem into the plug (the one on the wire) to complete the circuit.Also a good get home dodge if your otter switch stops working and your car hasn't had a manual over ride switch fitted.
davetherave1970 said:
Mod-wise two stage fan system works this well.
Set half speed fan operation at a lower temp of your choice, then full speed fan operation at a higher temp of your choice.
Switch ignition off and if the fans are in full speed operation they stay on until the lower temp is reached.
Otter switch remains in the system as a fail safe.
Recently fitted this kit and it works very well. Also had a fan bearing starting to seize so stripped them and measured the bearing. Got a pair for about £6 which was much cheaper than a new fan. For that price worth a go if you are going to have to replace the fan and may save you a few quid if it works.Set half speed fan operation at a lower temp of your choice, then full speed fan operation at a higher temp of your choice.
Switch ignition off and if the fans are in full speed operation they stay on until the lower temp is reached.
Otter switch remains in the system as a fail safe.
davetherave1970 said:
Mod-wise two stage fan system works this well.
Set half speed fan operation at a lower temp of your choice, then full speed fan operation at a higher temp of your choice.
Switch ignition off and if the fans are in full speed operation they stay on until the lower temp is reached.
Otter switch remains in the system as a fail safe.
How much is the two stage fan kit and where are they available from?Set half speed fan operation at a lower temp of your choice, then full speed fan operation at a higher temp of your choice.
Switch ignition off and if the fans are in full speed operation they stay on until the lower temp is reached.
Otter switch remains in the system as a fail safe.
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