For those of you that have modified your GRP...
Discussion
... what prompted the question was the idea I now have running around in the back of my head about that venturi effect, mentioned in the thread yesterday about creating vents in the top of the clam under the rear spoiler.
I shall look on line at some 'how to' videos, especially the parts about strengthening apertures.
In conversations a while back, I said to the builder 'I don't see myself tinkering..'
The thing is not even half built and already it occupies a large part of the brain when otherwise not engaged in other activities. That wasn't really part of the plan! I bought it to drive it. Somewhere, I sense at least one person laughing ,saying 'I told you so'.
I shall look on line at some 'how to' videos, especially the parts about strengthening apertures.
In conversations a while back, I said to the builder 'I don't see myself tinkering..'
The thing is not even half built and already it occupies a large part of the brain when otherwise not engaged in other activities. That wasn't really part of the plan! I bought it to drive it. Somewhere, I sense at least one person laughing ,saying 'I told you so'.
Diolen would be a good mould fabric for your arch bits Paul ... light, flexible and very impact resistant (unlike carbon which is very brittle)and about 25% the price of Kevlar... It can be had in carbon black finishes too.... just received some for another little project.
The venturi extraction method does have merit D-M-N ! .
G luck.
The venturi extraction method does have merit D-M-N ! .
G luck.
Edited by 738 driver on Friday 1st March 19:13
Storer said:
There are lots of ways of creating a mould.
I will soon try to create inner wheel arches for the front of mine. I will probably use a timber form to create them.
Paul
Paul we need to talk as I think you are experiencing the same problems as me, drop me a PM with your number. I will soon try to create inner wheel arches for the front of mine. I will probably use a timber form to create them.
Paul
Graham
Carving/sanding foam (styrene sheet) roughly into shape, sealing with emulsion and skimming/final shape/surface finish with bodyfiller is a great cheap way to form plugs for moulds.
The rear clip is a great lump of low pressure area to be exploited. Id considered its possibilites some time ago and posted the under wing venturi idea on here a few years back . One knowledgable PH'er pointed out the early MR2 design had employed this very principle (Boo... I'll never make a million outta that one!) ..... An aerofoil shaped vent under the wing has to be a great free source for both rear clip/arch pressure relief and drawing cooling air through the whole clip. The drawbacks of slight profile drag are minimal with the process maximised.
One other area to be improved easily are the stock aperture returns.... being almost square inside they dont promote the best extraction flow and likely reduce the total extraction area of each aperture a considerable percentage. They are obviously there to provide panel rigidity and do a great job but providing radii behind the return in some fashion improves matters no end, in just the same way removal of the mesh has for the track Guys.
For those who think their 500 donkies will overcome attention to detail, fill your boots and fuel tanks... ignore easily rectified little inefficiencies .
Again nothing intended to bash the Product or personally oriented... just some basic application thrown into the pot.
The rear clip is a great lump of low pressure area to be exploited. Id considered its possibilites some time ago and posted the under wing venturi idea on here a few years back . One knowledgable PH'er pointed out the early MR2 design had employed this very principle (Boo... I'll never make a million outta that one!) ..... An aerofoil shaped vent under the wing has to be a great free source for both rear clip/arch pressure relief and drawing cooling air through the whole clip. The drawbacks of slight profile drag are minimal with the process maximised.
One other area to be improved easily are the stock aperture returns.... being almost square inside they dont promote the best extraction flow and likely reduce the total extraction area of each aperture a considerable percentage. They are obviously there to provide panel rigidity and do a great job but providing radii behind the return in some fashion improves matters no end, in just the same way removal of the mesh has for the track Guys.
For those who think their 500 donkies will overcome attention to detail, fill your boots and fuel tanks... ignore easily rectified little inefficiencies .
Again nothing intended to bash the Product or personally oriented... just some basic application thrown into the pot.
I made some photoshop rough designs on how I want my GTR rear clip to look over 6 years ago, but sadly I have not yet managed to find anyone that can help me make those changes, which is massively annoying.
I recently decided to put it on the back-burner until IVA is done (hopefully April), and maybe try to do it myself - but then I am on-the-hunt for some help and guidance...
Anyone care to?
It included a centre-panel under the wing to extract hot air, and bigger outlets in the main hump + other interesting stuff... I have piccys...
I recently decided to put it on the back-burner until IVA is done (hopefully April), and maybe try to do it myself - but then I am on-the-hunt for some help and guidance...
Anyone care to?
It included a centre-panel under the wing to extract hot air, and bigger outlets in the main hump + other interesting stuff... I have piccys...
There is a lot of information out there on the interweb - these links give perhaps two extremes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJax6pqlEoI
http://www.fibreglast.com/fibreglast_how_to_mold_f...
Both are the first parts of a sequence of instructional videos. Hope this helps and the links work....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJax6pqlEoI
http://www.fibreglast.com/fibreglast_how_to_mold_f...
Both are the first parts of a sequence of instructional videos. Hope this helps and the links work....
I use fibreglass, mdf, expanding foam and filler to make my bucks.... I did a redesign for my noble rear clip and made moulds from it and then made a vac formed carbon rear clip which was 15kgs lighter than the stock one yet stronger.
I originally just modified the clip with epoxy making moulds of the local areas to minimise weight, however I thought in time cracks would appear at the joins which was something I wasnt prepared to tolerate hence I made moulds and made the entire thing in one part.
just fitted my full carbon/kevlar doors and half way through making the moulds for the front clip... you could say Im getting carried away
I originally just modified the clip with epoxy making moulds of the local areas to minimise weight, however I thought in time cracks would appear at the joins which was something I wasnt prepared to tolerate hence I made moulds and made the entire thing in one part.
just fitted my full carbon/kevlar doors and half way through making the moulds for the front clip... you could say Im getting carried away
a question for thoes that modify themselves....
do you use a special type of mask to help with the fumes....I was working with a clear coat for a tile floor in the house last weekend and felt very sick afterwards. there was no markings on the tin to indicate that i needed breathing masks or the like and the stuff didnt wash out in water or turps so am presuming it was some sort of resin.....
as its likley that ill get to do some more glass work in the future im curious if anyone uses a special type of mask, or what style of filters you use within said mask.
sorry if this takes the thread of topic but it might be something to consider depending on the resin system being used.
Ryan
do you use a special type of mask to help with the fumes....I was working with a clear coat for a tile floor in the house last weekend and felt very sick afterwards. there was no markings on the tin to indicate that i needed breathing masks or the like and the stuff didnt wash out in water or turps so am presuming it was some sort of resin.....
as its likley that ill get to do some more glass work in the future im curious if anyone uses a special type of mask, or what style of filters you use within said mask.
sorry if this takes the thread of topic but it might be something to consider depending on the resin system being used.
Ryan
ezakimak said:
a question for thoes that modify themselves....
do you use a special type of mask to help with the fumes....I was working with a clear coat for a tile floor in the house last weekend and felt very sick afterwards. there was no markings on the tin to indicate that i needed breathing masks or the like and the stuff didnt wash out in water or turps so am presuming it was some sort of resin.....
as its likley that ill get to do some more glass work in the future im curious if anyone uses a special type of mask, or what style of filters you use within said mask.
sorry if this takes the thread of topic but it might be something to consider depending on the resin system being used.
Ryan
You need to make sure that you are doing it in a well ventilated area. if the doors and windows are closed, the fumes have nowhere to go.do you use a special type of mask to help with the fumes....I was working with a clear coat for a tile floor in the house last weekend and felt very sick afterwards. there was no markings on the tin to indicate that i needed breathing masks or the like and the stuff didnt wash out in water or turps so am presuming it was some sort of resin.....
as its likley that ill get to do some more glass work in the future im curious if anyone uses a special type of mask, or what style of filters you use within said mask.
sorry if this takes the thread of topic but it might be something to consider depending on the resin system being used.
Ryan
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