Front Clip allignment
Discussion
Been fiddling with the alignment to try to get the best betwix the front of the cab-sides (where the catches are)and the clip itself by adjusting the bottom front mounts which as fiddly to say the least!
After about an hour of sweating my nuts off, I have managed to get it closing sort-of-ish ok, but concerned about the gap between the two panels in this area (a gap of around 5mm), as the gap seems much larger than expected. The rubber pads are not touching the cab bit where the access plate is.
Also have to press quite hard on each corner to latch - but the 'bumpers' don't seem to be adjustable (from the top at least!
What is the best method of alignment, and is a big gap usual? Seems quite critical, as too close and the catch peg hits the body just above the catch.
Is it better to adjust from underneath with the car elevated and clip closed? I had to do it open and keep trying the adjustment...pain!
Expert tips would be gratefully received! I have the rear clip to adjust as well!
After about an hour of sweating my nuts off, I have managed to get it closing sort-of-ish ok, but concerned about the gap between the two panels in this area (a gap of around 5mm), as the gap seems much larger than expected. The rubber pads are not touching the cab bit where the access plate is.
Also have to press quite hard on each corner to latch - but the 'bumpers' don't seem to be adjustable (from the top at least!
What is the best method of alignment, and is a big gap usual? Seems quite critical, as too close and the catch peg hits the body just above the catch.
Is it better to adjust from underneath with the car elevated and clip closed? I had to do it open and keep trying the adjustment...pain!
Expert tips would be gratefully received! I have the rear clip to adjust as well!
Hey Keith. I found it was easier to adj the clamshells with them closed and the car in the air. Lots of trial and error, but shouldn't be too hard to sort.
The little rubber bumpers are meant to be trimmed down to get a good alignment, so if you've got gaps that are too big because these are in the way, a bit of fettling with a Stanley knife should get you some more clearance.
The little rubber bumpers are meant to be trimmed down to get a good alignment, so if you've got gaps that are too big because these are in the way, a bit of fettling with a Stanley knife should get you some more clearance.
This is how I do it.
Start by removing or winding down the 2 large buffers below the screen.
Remove the latch pins from the front clip.
Get the car in the air so you can access underneath.
Tighten the rose joint to the chassis just enough so that an aluminium drift and hammer can be used to just move the joint vertically in the chassis slot.
Raise or lower each joint until the horizontal mating face of the clip is parallel with the top face of the side pod.
I was lucky and found that a tapered 'Pin' punch would fit into the slot of the chassis below the washers securing the rose joint. With the taper in place it is possible to loosen the rose joint without it dropping from the position you just set. It is then possible to adjust the joint in or out to get the vertical shut line correct with respect to the front face of the body tub. In both planes you should be able to achieve 3-4mm shut lines.
When you are happy with these shut lines refit the latches and adjust for a firm press to latch. You will likely find the latch catches the body so I file a chamfer on the mushroom head. As a guide my chamfer runs from half way across the diameter down to the underside edge of the mushroom.
Finally adjust the buffers below the screen to lift the back edge of the clip into alignment with the body.
Steve
Start by removing or winding down the 2 large buffers below the screen.
Remove the latch pins from the front clip.
Get the car in the air so you can access underneath.
Tighten the rose joint to the chassis just enough so that an aluminium drift and hammer can be used to just move the joint vertically in the chassis slot.
Raise or lower each joint until the horizontal mating face of the clip is parallel with the top face of the side pod.
I was lucky and found that a tapered 'Pin' punch would fit into the slot of the chassis below the washers securing the rose joint. With the taper in place it is possible to loosen the rose joint without it dropping from the position you just set. It is then possible to adjust the joint in or out to get the vertical shut line correct with respect to the front face of the body tub. In both planes you should be able to achieve 3-4mm shut lines.
When you are happy with these shut lines refit the latches and adjust for a firm press to latch. You will likely find the latch catches the body so I file a chamfer on the mushroom head. As a guide my chamfer runs from half way across the diameter down to the underside edge of the mushroom.
Finally adjust the buffers below the screen to lift the back edge of the clip into alignment with the body.
Steve
Regarding the front clip, I realised last night that the mess I got myself into when applying mastic for all the grilles was a waste of time, well...for the front clip anyway...
To be able to get at the bolts for the clip hinge (and other things), this grille had to be ripped back out - most annoying!
Then that led me to consider if there was a much neater - easily-removable way?
Most obvious would be some sort of screw-able clips to hold it in place...
Anyone with an alternative ingenious method? Piccys?
To be able to get at the bolts for the clip hinge (and other things), this grille had to be ripped back out - most annoying!
Then that led me to consider if there was a much neater - easily-removable way?
Most obvious would be some sort of screw-able clips to hold it in place...
Anyone with an alternative ingenious method? Piccys?
deadscoob said:
Do you have any tips for the rear Steve? If the top around the air inlet has 3 or 4 mm on mine, the area behind the fuel fillers seems excessive.
Rear is pretty much the same technique only when trying to set the horizontal gap parallel you also have the vertical line to use as well. Again do it with the latches removed so they are not part of the problem.Forgot to say you also need to decide where and how many washers are required to move the clip side to side.
Steve
Certainly have to press VERY firmly on my fronts to get them to latch (well - if you call virtually leaping up and putting all your weight on that area a 'press', that is). I notice there is no vertical adjustment either on the catch or the catch-bolt plate. Would be a bit concerned to do anything to to the GRP bolt-holes. Did notice that the latch has lateral adjustment only. Not sure whether opening up these holes for vertical adjustment is a good idea?
Edited by 3Dee on Thursday 7th March 08:20
3Dee said:
Certainly have to press VERY firmly on my fronts to get them to latch (well - if you call virtually leaping up and putting all your weight on that area a 'press', that is). I notice there is no vertical adjustment either on the catch or the catch-bolt plate. Would be a bit concerned to do anything to to the GRP bolt-holes. Did notice that the latch has lateral adjustment only. Not sure whether opening up these holes for vertical adjustment is a good idea?
Opening up or slotting the holes is required and is far better than having the clip under so much load.Steve
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