Discussion
Spoke to the garage, failed on the headlamp pods being unsecure, which i thought would fail, and the headlamp beams were way out of alignment, again i knew this. But also a suspension part had been "badly repaired with a weld", not noticed anything like this on the suspension and I've been under that car more times than i care to mention!
Also he failed the seats, it has lightweight bucket seats for hill climbs / speed trials fitted which I'm told are death traps as the back support isn't fixed.
Going to pick it up tomorrow, he said he will put it up on the ramp and then go through the advisorys with me.
I knew about the lamps and he would have realigned and secured probably if the rest had been OK. Surprised about the seats though, and interested to see this weld on the suspension, I'll kick myself if it is obvious and I have missed it. Not looking forward to the list of advisorys either.
Marcus
Also he failed the seats, it has lightweight bucket seats for hill climbs / speed trials fitted which I'm told are death traps as the back support isn't fixed.
Going to pick it up tomorrow, he said he will put it up on the ramp and then go through the advisorys with me.
I knew about the lamps and he would have realigned and secured probably if the rest had been OK. Surprised about the seats though, and interested to see this weld on the suspension, I'll kick myself if it is obvious and I have missed it. Not looking forward to the list of advisorys either.
Marcus

Hi Marcus...I would of thought that the seat's would of been approved if they are for hillcliming and speed trials..You are more likely to come a cropper doing either one of them then driving on a normal road?..If the suspension mount area has had a bad repair then thats understandable..Weird that he should say about a more lenient garage..Either its not as bad as he is saying or he knows of garages that will pass potential death trap's..Scary...Hope you get it sorted mate...Ziga
Apparently there have been changes to the mot checks
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=112...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=112...
This is the offending weld on the rear nearside suspension. It does look pretty poor tbh. As the tester said it looks like cowboy job.
so i need to get it repaired or get a new piece. any recommendations? TBH i dont even know what i would call that bit! Suppose it would be of a jag?
Surprisingly no advisorys, just the headlamps being insecure. He hasnt even put tge seat on the failure cert but has strongly advised that i get new ones.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
marcus
marcus1875 said:
TBH i dont even know what i would call that bit! Suppose it would be of a jag?
Hi Marcus...That looks like part of the hub carrier..Unfortunately they were TVR engineering and not from any other car..That weld looks like a DIY first attempt..Bloody awfull!..Potentially dangerous too..The hub carrier is what the wheel hub is bolted to..You need to check to see if you have seperate hub carriers..Most early wedge's did..You then need to find a decent welder..ZigaEdited by mrzigazaga on Saturday 9th March 21:10
I bought a complete rear end (diff, rear brakes, tailing arms, drive shafts etc) off fleebay a while ago.
Both the bearing housings are cast (unlike on my car) and both had welds that looked like repairs to cracks. The welding looked to be done by someone who know what they were doing but I was surprised to see that the castings had failed.
You might be able to get yours re welded if you can't source a new one.
Both the bearing housings are cast (unlike on my car) and both had welds that looked like repairs to cracks. The welding looked to be done by someone who know what they were doing but I was surprised to see that the castings had failed.
You might be able to get yours re welded if you can't source a new one.
mmmmmmmm nasty weld, trouble is that as its already been welded it makes it more difficult to do the decent job that's required, any weld point is a weakness so would advise a second hand part being where the welding is, to weld it needs to come off the car completely and all the weld grounded off and plate removed, when that's done and a new plate made you chanfer all the edges of plate and suspension part to create a V where the weld will go and burn the weld in for full penetration then grind back to level, that's the proper way to get a strong weld and be sure the stress on the hub won't break the weld, but again I would recommend a replacement part but the weldI g would legally see you through till you get one. hope this helps but if not I'm in the bath on my 5th bottle of cider so ignore me lol,oh yes I'm a qualified welder lmao
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