Discussion
Pipeandacrepe said:
Can anybody suggest somewhere in Hertfordshire that can adjust my handbrake? This is my first fault so not had the pleasure of any specialists yet. I think it just needs adjusting, but don't want to get ripped off.
Cheers.
What's wrong with it? Three clicks the car rolls, four is a bCheers.
d to get on and off? Mine's like that and I am told it cannot be improved. Goes on easier with my foot on the brake.My TVR expert says he cannot adjust it. If you put your foot on the foot brake, the handbrake pulls on easier. Put it in gear when you park it, and start it with your foot on the brake and clutch. It's all I can suggest. I hate it too, and as my car is in for service right now, I will ask him again if it can be adjusted.
According to pages 174-5 of the Steve Heath bible, there is an adjuster inside the transmission tunnel, and self-adjusters somewhere around the rear suspension. I imagine that, being a TVR, whatever you do to the adjuster is undone by the self-adjusters!
According to pages 174-5 of the Steve Heath bible, there is an adjuster inside the transmission tunnel, and self-adjusters somewhere around the rear suspension. I imagine that, being a TVR, whatever you do to the adjuster is undone by the self-adjusters!
QBee said:
My TVR expert says he cannot adjust it. If you put your foot on the foot brake, the handbrake pulls on easier. I will ask him again if it can be adjusted.
According to pages 174-5 of the Steve Heath bible, there is an adjuster inside the transmission tunnel, and self-adjusters somewhere around the rear suspension.
It can be adjusted but its a bit hit and miss. Adjust it too much with very little travel on the handbrake lever, and it will probably be worse.According to pages 174-5 of the Steve Heath bible, there is an adjuster inside the transmission tunnel, and self-adjusters somewhere around the rear suspension.
Its a compromise between adjusting the knurled white plastic nut, and leverage of the lever.
I fitted a new cable last winter as the white plastic adjuster had stripped its threads.
It was still trial and error, even with a new cable, new rear calipers and pads.
I just tell the garage at MOT time to press on the brake pedal and hold whilst you lift the handbrake lever, and this way it works good enough, to pass the MOT at least.
Black arrow is the white plastic adjuster,attached to the left hand side of the handbrake cable and adjusted at this point on the chassis.
Purple arrow indicates the point of the handbrake cable on the right side where it is fixed [non adjustable] onto the chassis.
they have a handbrake?
Calipers functioning properly with Genuine Motorcraft/Lucas pads and the handbrake functions as it should 
it all goes to pot when people substitute after-market brake pads or worse performance/harder material 
people adjusting the cable to give less clicks only makes matters worse as the handbrake operating arms only do the job if they return to their stops on every handbrake release 
manufacturers spend a lot of time getting the friction balance right 
OE generally works best most of the time IMO 
it all goes to pot when people substitute after-market brake pads or worse performance/harder material people adjusting the cable to give less clicks only makes matters worse as the handbrake operating arms only do the job if they return to their stops on every handbrake release manufacturers spend a lot of time getting the friction balance right OE generally works best most of the time IMO Edited by Sardonicus on Tuesday 12th March 11:48
As above.
Three clicks sometimes catches and holds but I wouldn't trust it so leave in gear as well.
Four clicks needs both feet braced against the dash and both hands on the lever. (still leave in gear though)
I expected it to improve with time as the pads wore down a little but it hasn't.
When parked in the garage (flat) I don't bother at all and just leave it in gear.
Three clicks sometimes catches and holds but I wouldn't trust it so leave in gear as well.
Four clicks needs both feet braced against the dash and both hands on the lever. (still leave in gear though)
I expected it to improve with time as the pads wore down a little but it hasn't.
When parked in the garage (flat) I don't bother at all and just leave it in gear.
Hedgehopper said:
Do what Clarkson did last Sunday...just use a log and a couple of bits of rope!
... and get smacked in the back of the head witha log. 
Probably would do Jezzer some good but not recommended for the rest of us!@OP: Even a properly handbrake properly applied when the brakes are hot will be useless after 10 mins of cooling down. Take it from one who knows, with a steep drive.
Pipeandacrepe said:
Thanks for you responses. I'll have to remember to leave it in gear then, no big deal. I get handbrake / clutch anxiety that close to the house. I just need to get used to the car really. Only had it 5 days after all.
..and when the dashboard lights fail to illuminate......check your left knee
TJC46 said:
I mean you can see that were the drive-shaft goes into the diff that location is a bit to the left of the hart from the diff...
I think thats not ideal? when under heavy load then more force is going on all related items and chassis etc.
Do all TVR's have that or just some types...
you can also see it here, the diff is in the middle of the car but the drive-shaft is out the middle, that way the drive shaft does not go straight into the diff
that not ideal...
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