Oil query, what to use?
Discussion
Thanks to SILICONEKID350HP, I have found out that my recently purchsed 5w-40 may be a bit thin for the old girl.
I can't seem to find consistent information on what oil to use, 10w-50, 10w-60, 15w-60 all seem to come up in searches. Car is a 1998 450 and is largely standard but upcoming cam change along with a few other light mods.
Don't mind spending the cash to get it right, Millers, Mobil 1, Fuchs etc. all seem to be coming in at £50ish for 5 litres. Am I correct in thinking I will need around 7 litres?
Nick
I can't seem to find consistent information on what oil to use, 10w-50, 10w-60, 15w-60 all seem to come up in searches. Car is a 1998 450 and is largely standard but upcoming cam change along with a few other light mods.
Don't mind spending the cash to get it right, Millers, Mobil 1, Fuchs etc. all seem to be coming in at £50ish for 5 litres. Am I correct in thinking I will need around 7 litres?
Nick
If you want fully synthetic just go to Halfords and pick up some Mobil 10w60
http://www.mobil.co.uk/UK-English-LCW/carengineoil...
I use valvoline 20w50 VR1 ,i`m tryiing Morris 15w50 classic motorsport oil .. Both mineral.
It`s up to you but don`t go any lighter than 10
http://www.mobil.co.uk/UK-English-LCW/carengineoil...
I use valvoline 20w50 VR1 ,i`m tryiing Morris 15w50 classic motorsport oil .. Both mineral.
It`s up to you but don`t go any lighter than 10
Edited by SILICONEKID350HP on Monday 11th March 22:22
My car is serviced by a very highly respected TVR specialist in south Oxfordshire, and they use a 5W-40 semi synth. It's safe to say they know their TVRs, and I don't lose sleep over the oil they've used.
Provided you're using a good quality oil, and it has high levels of zinc (ZDDP), then frankly it doesn't matter whether it's semi or full synthetic, and the precise weight doesn't matter that much either.
That said, personally I think 15W-60 or 20W-60 sounds a bit too heavy for our climate. Remember: it's not unheard of for our cars to be started up when it's -5C or even down to -10C, and those heavier oils will not be flowing so well in the first few minutes in those conditions.
My choice of top-up oil, FWIW, is a 10W-50 full synthetic (Fuchs). I think that's a good compromise between cold winter starting and hot summer running (if you go where it doesn't piss with rain constantly).
Mine gets a service with the 5W-40 in the winter, and then the top-ups gradually thicken the oil through the summer. I've never seen tickover pressure below 30psi (now that I've replaced the oil sender with one that actually works), even stuck in a jam in 40C heat.
Seriously, 5W-40 is fine. 10W-50 is fine. Even the 15W-60 and 20W-60 are probably fine too if you're totally disciplined about limiting the revs until the oil's warmed up (which you should do anyway).
Provided you're using a good quality oil, and it has high levels of zinc (ZDDP), then frankly it doesn't matter whether it's semi or full synthetic, and the precise weight doesn't matter that much either.
That said, personally I think 15W-60 or 20W-60 sounds a bit too heavy for our climate. Remember: it's not unheard of for our cars to be started up when it's -5C or even down to -10C, and those heavier oils will not be flowing so well in the first few minutes in those conditions.
My choice of top-up oil, FWIW, is a 10W-50 full synthetic (Fuchs). I think that's a good compromise between cold winter starting and hot summer running (if you go where it doesn't piss with rain constantly).
Mine gets a service with the 5W-40 in the winter, and then the top-ups gradually thicken the oil through the summer. I've never seen tickover pressure below 30psi (now that I've replaced the oil sender with one that actually works), even stuck in a jam in 40C heat.
Seriously, 5W-40 is fine. 10W-50 is fine. Even the 15W-60 and 20W-60 are probably fine too if you're totally disciplined about limiting the revs until the oil's warmed up (which you should do anyway).
My Chim was serviced before I got it and its got Castrol 10w-40 semi-synthetic.
My view on engine oil was that now the engine has got a good few thousand miles on it and its not a modern engine. Then using Mobil 1 fully synthetic is just too light (and watery!).
I thought light fully synthetic is more suited to modern engines with tighter tolerances, Turbo engines which need an oil which can cope with higher temperatures and not break down.
I am not a professional so this could be total garbage.
Eurocarparts.com re doing 25% of service parts inc. Oil.
My view on engine oil was that now the engine has got a good few thousand miles on it and its not a modern engine. Then using Mobil 1 fully synthetic is just too light (and watery!).
I thought light fully synthetic is more suited to modern engines with tighter tolerances, Turbo engines which need an oil which can cope with higher temperatures and not break down.
I am not a professional so this could be total garbage.
Eurocarparts.com re doing 25% of service parts inc. Oil.
The VR1 is a high zinc mineral oil, the zinc acts as a backup when the oil film has sheared and the zinc prevents metal to metal contact in high load areas under harsh conditions (its sold as a racing oil). You could ask the question why would zinc be needed on a modern sythetic oil with much better shear strength in the first place? Oil shear is bad, zinc is just a work around.... The other down side of zinc is it can contaminate the catalysts if the engine burns oil, and its been removed from modern oils as an enviromental thing. Im not saying dont use it, just consider the reasons and engine use.
Dr Mike Oxgreen said:
My car is serviced by a very highly respected TVR specialist in south Oxfordshire, and they use a 5W-40 semi synth. It's safe to say they know their TVRs, and I don't lose sleep over the oil they've used.
Provided you're using a good quality oil, and it has high levels of zinc (ZDDP), then frankly it doesn't matter whether it's semi or full synthetic, and the precise weight doesn't matter that much either.
That said, personally I think 15W-60 or 20W-60 sounds a bit too heavy for our climate. Remember: it's not unheard of for our cars to be started up when it's -5C or even down to -10C, and those heavier oils will not be flowing so well in the first few minutes in those conditions.
My choice of top-up oil, FWIW, is a 10W-50 full synthetic (Fuchs). I think that's a good compromise between cold winter starting and hot summer running (if you go where it doesn't piss with rain constantly).
Mine gets a service with the 5W-40 in the winter, and then the top-ups gradually thicken the oil through the summer. I've never seen tickover pressure below 30psi (now that I've replaced the oil sender with one that actually works), even stuck in a jam in 40C heat.
Seriously, 5W-40 is fine. 10W-50 is fine. Even the 15W-60 and 20W-60 are probably fine too if you're totally disciplined about limiting the revs until the oil's warmed up (which you should do anyway).
Seen a few posts where a TVR specialist used the 0/40 oil and has a result it`s caused the engine to make a tapping noise .!Provided you're using a good quality oil, and it has high levels of zinc (ZDDP), then frankly it doesn't matter whether it's semi or full synthetic, and the precise weight doesn't matter that much either.
That said, personally I think 15W-60 or 20W-60 sounds a bit too heavy for our climate. Remember: it's not unheard of for our cars to be started up when it's -5C or even down to -10C, and those heavier oils will not be flowing so well in the first few minutes in those conditions.
My choice of top-up oil, FWIW, is a 10W-50 full synthetic (Fuchs). I think that's a good compromise between cold winter starting and hot summer running (if you go where it doesn't piss with rain constantly).
Mine gets a service with the 5W-40 in the winter, and then the top-ups gradually thicken the oil through the summer. I've never seen tickover pressure below 30psi (now that I've replaced the oil sender with one that actually works), even stuck in a jam in 40C heat.
Seriously, 5W-40 is fine. 10W-50 is fine. Even the 15W-60 and 20W-60 are probably fine too if you're totally disciplined about limiting the revs until the oil's warmed up (which you should do anyway).
Its a 50 year old design engine ,the tolernces are the same now so why would you put a 0 or 5 oil in an old engine .
Just purchased 10L of Morris classic motorsport 15w50 ,its in direct competition to Valvoline 20w50vr1 ,still got plenty of zinc in it .. Paid £42 for 10 litres .
http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/pr...
Edited by SILICONEKID350HP on Tuesday 12th March 20:19
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I really should research more first, especially with such a wealth of knowledge on these forums 

not bothered about this cold flow stuff has mines a summer toy only