suspension upgrade - is it worth it?
Discussion
Hi
I'm about to get all bushes replaced for poly ones. See this thread.
The bulk of the cost is labour - so I was wondering - whilst the car is in bits should I get the suspension upgraded at the same time. What would the likely costs be - what should I upgrade to?
But most importantly is it worth while?
Note: I don't do track days - but I do about 10K a year of quite spirted driving.
TIA
I'm about to get all bushes replaced for poly ones. See this thread.
The bulk of the cost is labour - so I was wondering - whilst the car is in bits should I get the suspension upgraded at the same time. What would the likely costs be - what should I upgrade to?
But most importantly is it worth while?
Note: I don't do track days - but I do about 10K a year of quite spirted driving.
TIA
FunkyGibbon said:
But most importantly is it worth while?
Yes
I upgraded to AVOs and they were a huge improvement. Now I'm running on the new Joospeed kit and it's a step-change again. I understand that Nitron goes another step further.
On the other hand, I can't see the point in having adjustables if you're not going to play with the adjustments.
Under other circumstances I'd recommend phoning Joolz and talking through the type of driving that you do, and see what he advises, but if your car is in for poly bushes anyway, why not just ask your mechanic? I know that Andy at APM and Dave Batty will talk customers through this sort of thing, so your garage probably will too.
Depending on what mileage your car has done, you might need new dampers anyway.
I have noticed that 30K miles is about the most you will get from a set of standard dampers, less if you give the car plenty of stick or live in an area with lots of potholes or sleeping policemen.
The dampers don't normally show signs of leaking, they seem to wear out internally.
A set of new standard dampers from TVR will be a lot more expensive (if they have any) than a good set of aftermarket ones.
I have noticed that 30K miles is about the most you will get from a set of standard dampers, less if you give the car plenty of stick or live in an area with lots of potholes or sleeping policemen.
The dampers don't normally show signs of leaking, they seem to wear out internally.
A set of new standard dampers from TVR will be a lot more expensive (if they have any) than a good set of aftermarket ones.
Re-bushed and AVOs from Pennisula - Linear Springs from Joospeed, huge difference.
Wish I'd saved for Nitrons.
Still, AVOs are beginning to "soften" their action (2-track days, corner speed frightening !!). Must be doing something right, tyres untouched (Goodyears), std brakes more than capable !!
Trev McM
Wish I'd saved for Nitrons.
Still, AVOs are beginning to "soften" their action (2-track days, corner speed frightening !!). Must be doing something right, tyres untouched (Goodyears), std brakes more than capable !!
Trev McM
Ballpark wise, what are we talking for AVO and springs. I think I read somewhere that nitrons are very expensive but you dont have to change to linear springs, so is there any difference in price.
Need the cheapest route, cos the tax man's just told me to write him a cheque for £1300
Need the cheapest route, cos the tax man's just told me to write him a cheque for £1300
Only you know how much you can afford to spend. With some things spending more money than you have to is simply a waste. Dampers are one of the few areas where I would say buy the best you can afford. The difference between good and bad dampers really is noticeable, it will make the car more comfortable in normal driving and handle better when you pressing on. If you are buying decent dampers, I recommend getting a suspension expert to fit them and set them up for you because the wrong geometry or spring/damper settings can spoil the ride and handling regardless of how good the dampers are.
Will definitely be taking GreenV8's advice on the expert setting up and have heard very good things about Joospeed, but from what I understand (which is probably very little) the full works is good enough for track days etc, is there a trade off between spending serious dosh and getting something good for fast road use.
For example are adjustables supposed to be adjusted for the type of drivgiing you're planning to do and changed often or are they set up once and left? If the latter, isn't there a non adjustable (and therefore less costly option) that may be suited for Chim fast road use?
For example are adjustables supposed to be adjusted for the type of drivgiing you're planning to do and changed often or are they set up once and left? If the latter, isn't there a non adjustable (and therefore less costly option) that may be suited for Chim fast road use?
mean'n'roofless said:
For example are adjustables supposed to be adjusted for the type of drivgiing you're planning to do and changed often or are they set up once and left? If the latter, isn't there a non adjustable (and therefore less costly option) that may be suited for Chim fast road use?
Very few people bother adjusting the dampers and ride height from day to day, it is usually a matter of finding the best compromise for you and your car, and settling with that. Sometimes the more serious guys running very aggressive suspension settings will soften them off for road use and then wind them back up for the track, but that's the exception rather than the rule. I don't go this far but I do run different settings during winter because the grip and handling characteristics of the car change so much.
The biggest reason for going adjustable is cost: for the aftermarket suppliers to make a non-adjustable specific to your car would mean practically every damper they make would be unique. By making them adjustable they can fit the same damper on a range of cars. Aftermarket dampers invariably are adjustable. Some of the more expensive dampers have multiple types of adjustment that change the behaviour in different ways, but unless you're a race engineer this level of sophistication isn't required.
I got a quote from Austec of circa £800 +VAT for Avos + springs, fitted and corner weighted. Joolz is in the region of £500 for Avos and springs. David Batty was mentioning about £200-250 to fit. From what I understand its not that tricky to fit them but you DO need an expert to set up the geometry and so on afterwards.
Rob
Rob
I haven't gone the 'serious' route above but in 2000 a TVR garage got me to change the suspension arms due to 'possible rust damage' (standard fear of god tactics) -- and I noticed a considerabel improvement from what I had -- I bought the 5l new in 1997 -- so even if you go basic - it will be an improvement if the existing system is 'old'.
I replaced my aged 'original' Bilstein dampers with my Chim currently at 46k miles with AVO adjustables from David Gerald at £385 excluding springs. Fitted them myself (normally do my own work), and what a difference ! Just did my first track day, cranked up the settings and wow! Closest thing to a 1 tonne go cart I've experienced. Did the rear bushes on my car last year, approx £60 for the set, plus a bit of not to arduous spanner work.
Thanks again GreenV8
Probably will leave it til I'm richer for the moment as I also need some tyres and I know someone whose got a set of SO2's.
Changing the thread slightly, for a 98 chim 4l, what's the difference between SO2 and SO2pp and should I avoid one of them.
Cheers (sorry for the delays but if I dont spend this time at work I'll never afford some avos or nitrons)
Probably will leave it til I'm richer for the moment as I also need some tyres and I know someone whose got a set of SO2's.
Changing the thread slightly, for a 98 chim 4l, what's the difference between SO2 and SO2pp and should I avoid one of them.
Cheers (sorry for the delays but if I dont spend this time at work I'll never afford some avos or nitrons)
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I've just had Avo's fitted and there’s a huge difference. So in a word YES
I think a set of AVOs or Nitrons on my 25k mile Chimaera 500 are going to have to be a serious contender for a future purchase.