Have you got your nuts!
Discussion
Hi
Well have you got your drive shaft nuts done up!
Yes they are a pain when they come undone and have you had trouble finding new nuts, so have drilled the nut and shaft to stop them coming undone!
I have done three sets of drive shaft this year and have had to drill and pin two sets as I could not find a replacment set untill yesterday when Neil at ML parts found me a set at (Adam I hope you are sitting down!)
£16,50 each + Vat and P&P so in total a set for the car cost nearly £40!!!!!!!!!
Because of this price and the fact I found it hard to get replacment, in fact some people can not even identify what they come from.
I have found a somebody who will make them for me off course a one off set is even more stupied money, but if I can get enought wedgers wanting a set then the price comes down to around £20 a set & P&P or maybe £20 all in.
The nuts are to the same stanadard as used originaly!
So the question is does anybody want a set!
Andy
Well have you got your drive shaft nuts done up!
Yes they are a pain when they come undone and have you had trouble finding new nuts, so have drilled the nut and shaft to stop them coming undone!
I have done three sets of drive shaft this year and have had to drill and pin two sets as I could not find a replacment set untill yesterday when Neil at ML parts found me a set at (Adam I hope you are sitting down!)
£16,50 each + Vat and P&P so in total a set for the car cost nearly £40!!!!!!!!!Because of this price and the fact I found it hard to get replacment, in fact some people can not even identify what they come from.
I have found a somebody who will make them for me off course a one off set is even more stupied money, but if I can get enought wedgers wanting a set then the price comes down to around £20 a set & P&P or maybe £20 all in.
The nuts are to the same stanadard as used originaly!
So the question is does anybody want a set!
Andy
Edited by Mr Tank on Thursday 21st March 13:01
I found this to be a key area of maintenance.
I noticed a grumbling sound when steering to the right. On investigation, the nut was spinning on the shaft. What had happen was that the split pin had come out, the thread was worn through around the split pin hole area as the shaft had been drilled more than once.
Please take care.
I noticed a grumbling sound when steering to the right. On investigation, the nut was spinning on the shaft. What had happen was that the split pin had come out, the thread was worn through around the split pin hole area as the shaft had been drilled more than once.
Please take care.
mrzigazaga said:
What about using some loctite/thread lock as recommended for the hub nut..Drilling threads does weaken them..I remember when i first got mine there was a couple of them missing and rooodboy had some the correct size that he kindly fitted..Ziga
MarkWho recomended using loctite/thread lock?
mrzigazaga said:
Im not one for naming names but its in a well known guide for wedges!..It was mentioned that the loctite stops the hub nut from vibrating loose.
O! the idiots guide, the same one which shows the Hub nut being tightend up and he is using a piece of flimsy shelf racking as a extension for his ratchet arm. Enough said!Yes, I keep them next to my monitor:
Wow 40 squids a set - well I haven't lost one yet with the split-pinning technique I perfected the shaft only gets drilled once and then you keep re-using the same hole.
On the other hand if you are getting them made then why not get castellated ones which makes it even easier?
Are your ones gonna have the nyloc insert or not? I think nyloc is probably a waste of time and you end up with less metal thread = a weaker solution.
Wow 40 squids a set - well I haven't lost one yet with the split-pinning technique I perfected the shaft only gets drilled once and then you keep re-using the same hole.
On the other hand if you are getting them made then why not get castellated ones which makes it even easier?
Are your ones gonna have the nyloc insert or not? I think nyloc is probably a waste of time and you end up with less metal thread = a weaker solution.
Hi Andy..For what its worth you could try these guys that i use from time to time...If you dont see what you want they are worth calling...Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=m...
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=m...
Looks like this has been discussed before
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=3&a...
Ours looks different from the Jag one to me
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=3&a...
Ours looks different from the Jag one to me
Danny Hoffman said:
Hi,
Has anyone got the exact dimensions? I'd be amazed if they can't be sourced off the web somewhere.
Danny
M22 x 1.25mm... which IIRC is 'Metric extra fine' for that diameter. I did find some years ago but they weren't Nyloc and I never fancied the idea of drilling a driveshaft. Problem with split pins is that they're soft and depending on what 'fretting' action is going on, the hub could sever them. Most tales of lost wheels are almost certainly down to re-using old Nylocs, incorrect hub reassembly technique or insufficient torque on the nut.Has anyone got the exact dimensions? I'd be amazed if they can't be sourced off the web somewhere.
Danny
Loach1 said:
$3 - that's more like it - I have an office in the US I can ship via.It tends to be the driver's side that undoes by all accounts. The other side tends to get tighter. I do more mileage than most and I have re-used nylocs a number of times (I do check the metal thread is OK) and split pinned them with no problems. I only ever drill one hole through the driveshaft end and then reuse that every time. Yes theoretically the driveshaft is weaker, but on the other hand it's at the end where there's a nylon insert in the nut, so it hardly takes any strain.
I think the Viper ones will be fine as long as the thread is as deep.
Hi
Well the answers to my question have been answered in the usual way! I just can't believe the attitude by some wedge owners! Or is it there tightness or stupidness by them! The same goes with the brakes rather buy the correct new part make do with repair kits, or in this case use a nut which has no locking caperbilty because its cheaper or its been used once and then reused when its not designed to be! If you can't afford seven pounds between just a plain nut and a nut designed to lock to the shaft! I am surprised you can afford the fuel to drive them!
I will properly still get the 100 nuts (Min Order) as a TVR parts supply wants to buy them from me so he can charge £20 a nut to you!
over!
Andy
Well the answers to my question have been answered in the usual way! I just can't believe the attitude by some wedge owners! Or is it there tightness or stupidness by them! The same goes with the brakes rather buy the correct new part make do with repair kits, or in this case use a nut which has no locking caperbilty because its cheaper or its been used once and then reused when its not designed to be! If you can't afford seven pounds between just a plain nut and a nut designed to lock to the shaft! I am surprised you can afford the fuel to drive them! I will properly still get the 100 nuts (Min Order) as a TVR parts supply wants to buy them from me so he can charge £20 a nut to you!
over!Andy
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