Guide to replacing valley gasket.
Discussion
More gaskets! 
I've still a little oil dripping from above the back of the engine and behind the dizzy, so want to have a look at this. There seems an awful lot of stuff to take off to get to the valley gasket.
Firstly, has anybody got a guide and some pics to help? Secondly, anything else I should do whilst I'm in there?
Thanks again!
I've still a little oil dripping from above the back of the engine and behind the dizzy, so want to have a look at this. There seems an awful lot of stuff to take off to get to the valley gasket.
Firstly, has anybody got a guide and some pics to help? Secondly, anything else I should do whilst I'm in there?
Thanks again!
Hi,
I'm know a Wedgie, but I tackled my valley gasket last year, with some relative ease, despite having minimal experience. The other stuff I checked whilst I had bits off were the tightness of the trumpets, and gave everything a clean as I went. I also checked the fuel pipes around the fuel rail and replaced all bar the short injector ones. The only thing I referred to was a Rover V8 manual for the bolt torque settings.
I'm sure there will be lots of guys on here who will offer sound advice and pics.
Good luck
The only down side is that I will have to wax oil the chassis now, as the leak on mine kept the underside of the car nicely oiled and rust free !
I'm know a Wedgie, but I tackled my valley gasket last year, with some relative ease, despite having minimal experience. The other stuff I checked whilst I had bits off were the tightness of the trumpets, and gave everything a clean as I went. I also checked the fuel pipes around the fuel rail and replaced all bar the short injector ones. The only thing I referred to was a Rover V8 manual for the bolt torque settings.
I'm sure there will be lots of guys on here who will offer sound advice and pics.
Good luck
The only down side is that I will have to wax oil the chassis now, as the leak on mine kept the underside of the car nicely oiled and rust free !
chris1972 said:
More gaskets!
I've still a little oil dripping from above the back of the engine and behind the dizzy, so want to have a look at this. There seems an awful lot of stuff to take off to get to the valley gasket.
Firstly, has anybody got a guide and some pics to help? Secondly, anything else I should do whilst I'm in there?
Thanks again!
Fit some nice carbon ACT trumpets while the plenum is off, They look a work of art, shame you can't see them when the plenum cover is fitted!I've still a little oil dripping from above the back of the engine and behind the dizzy, so want to have a look at this. There seems an awful lot of stuff to take off to get to the valley gasket.
Firstly, has anybody got a guide and some pics to help? Secondly, anything else I should do whilst I'm in there?
Thanks again!
I recommend not rushing the job and using plenty of penetrating oil on the bolts up front. I snapped one in the block from the inlet manifold and another went on the trumpet base! Took me more time to get them out than the entire rest of the job. Oh and if replacing the rocker gaskets at the same time, be careful with the compresion washer in the gasket that conveniently sits right over the hole down to the cam. when trying to line the gasket up I dropped the washer down and it luckily ended up in the oil sump. After that I chopped the heads off some studs that fit the thread to help line up the gasket and rocker cover.
May as well do rubber fuel lines while you're at it. Access is much easier with all that metal out the way.
May as well do rubber fuel lines while you're at it. Access is much easier with all that metal out the way.
mgjc said:
replace the injector seals too as you'll have to strip down the injection regardless and for no more than £20 for a set its a no brainer.
Not true, if you're careful and have a decent socket set (strong but thin) you've got enough clearance to get to all the bolts and can leave the fuel rail and injectors in place.Can save time and faffing - unless you want to change the injectors to manifold seals anyway.
Strange that this should re-appear today! I've been under the bonnet removing the manifolds and have dropped them off for blasting, plus sanded rocker covers and plenum housing, removed alternator and tension wheel block to make way for a JE bracket. The hardest part of removing the valley gasket is lower radiator hose and perhaps alternator bracket. Otherwise, it's really bolt on bolt off. If your plenum hasn't been removed before, you may have to bend up the mesh under the windscreen/ above bulkhead to get it out.
However, it is an ideal opportunity to do a few more things. As mentioned above, fuel lines being one of them. It's also a good a opportunity to replace the hoses for the heater under the bulkhead and perhaps anew more hoses. Also consider doing your trumpets and adding a thermal gasket to the plenum.
As for removing the alternator, carefully note the position of the rotor arm, so it can be replaced in the same way!
Good luck!
Chuffy
However, it is an ideal opportunity to do a few more things. As mentioned above, fuel lines being one of them. It's also a good a opportunity to replace the hoses for the heater under the bulkhead and perhaps anew more hoses. Also consider doing your trumpets and adding a thermal gasket to the plenum.
As for removing the alternator, carefully note the position of the rotor arm, so it can be replaced in the same way!
Good luck!
Chuffy
When I replaced this on my 500 I found that the supplied gasket (from TVR supplier) was too small for the bigger inlets of the 500 head. Had to spend an age grinding out the gasket apertures.
Any 500 owners know an alternative in case this needs doing again?
My only other tip is be very careful with the bolts which secure the valley gasket seals to the block. I snapped the rearmost one flush with the block. Took over 2 weeks of 70% nitric acid to burn it out!
Any 500 owners know an alternative in case this needs doing again?
My only other tip is be very careful with the bolts which secure the valley gasket seals to the block. I snapped the rearmost one flush with the block. Took over 2 weeks of 70% nitric acid to burn it out!
swallet said:
So it's a specific 500 gasket then?
Just the standard composite. I've just gone back through my orders and this is the one I purchased. HTH.http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-LKJ500020P1
Slightly off topic but very related.
The 500 has larger ports on the inlet manifold than the 400/450 so I assume that the corresponding opening on the heads is larger as well so that 400/450 and the 500 heads are not interchangeable.
Likewise if you have a 400/450 and fit a larger ported inlet manifold, you also need to change heads to get them to fit/get any benefit.
Can somebody please confirm?
Thanks.
The 500 has larger ports on the inlet manifold than the 400/450 so I assume that the corresponding opening on the heads is larger as well so that 400/450 and the 500 heads are not interchangeable.
Likewise if you have a 400/450 and fit a larger ported inlet manifold, you also need to change heads to get them to fit/get any benefit.
Can somebody please confirm?
Thanks.
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