Crunch when selecting 3rd and sometimes 4th
Crunch when selecting 3rd and sometimes 4th
Author
Discussion

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Monday 1st April 2013
quotequote all
Its been like this since i bought the car. I believe its the syncromesh but no doubt im wrong, is this an easy fix or is it gearbox out?

Dix

keatsie

326 posts

194 months

Monday 1st April 2013
quotequote all
If its a synchro gone its box out and rebuild, personally I would bleed the clutch. The fluid gets hot due to the location of the slave, deteriorates the fluid. Start here before gearbox out.

matt-man

2,667 posts

249 months

Monday 1st April 2013
quotequote all
Firstly check the clutch system for any leaks as this is important.

However, you have another option before you rip the box out! Does your gear stick lift up and down? If so, the bushes in the selector might be shot. Mine wore out and it started crunching into third but after fitting these it fixed it!

Try lifting the gearstick when you shift and see if this makes a difference smile

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Monday 1st April 2013
quotequote all
It only crunches when im driving the car hard or changing down in high revs. If im taking it easy its fine?

Dix

keatsie

326 posts

194 months

Monday 1st April 2013
quotequote all
It does sound like a worn synchro, but check the clutch system. Others may have better input..

Number 7

4,113 posts

292 months

Tuesday 2nd April 2013
quotequote all
As others have said, there could be several causes. Check the master cylinder - is there evidence of fluid seepage along the pushrod to the pedal? If so, the seals are gone, and the unit needs replacing (I know some change seals, and I've done it in the past, but don't bother now). IME crunching third when going down the box is a sign of worn synchro. Only cure is a rebuild. What fluid is used in the box, has it ever been changed, how many miles has the box done etc.? The LT77 does not like rushed changes -it's an ancient box, although will last well if cared for.

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Tuesday 2nd April 2013
quotequote all
Before going for a rebuild try the Mobil 1 oil change - it's worth a try. Mine has got smoother since the changeover.

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Tuesday 2nd April 2013
quotequote all
Can the gearbox be dropped without taking the engine out. Whats the easiest way to extract the box?

Dix

Number 7

4,113 posts

292 months

Wednesday 3rd April 2013
quotequote all
dixiebabes said:
Can the gearbox be dropped without taking the engine out. Whats the easiest way to extract the box?

Dix
I know it was done (twice over the years) on my 400 by the outfit that rebuilt the box, but I couldn't tell you how. I believe it is pretty fiddly though.

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Wednesday 3rd April 2013
quotequote all
Number 7 said:
I know it was done (twice over the years) on my 400 by the outfit that rebuilt the box, but I couldn't tell you how. I believe it is pretty fiddly though.
If it can be done I have the expertise available. Just need the ok so I can plan to rebuild the box and clutch next year.

Dix

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Wednesday 3rd April 2013
quotequote all
Number 7 said:
I know it was done (twice over the years) on my 400 by the outfit that rebuilt the box, but I couldn't tell you how. I believe it is pretty fiddly though.
If it can be done I have the expertise available. Just need the ok so I can plan to rebuild the box and clutch next year.

Dix

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Wednesday 3rd April 2013
quotequote all
Easiest way is engine out, I'm afraid...

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Thursday 4th April 2013
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
Easiest way is engine out, I'm afraid...
Bloody hell i was afraid you were gunna say that adam frown

Dix

ultimaybe

400 posts

278 months

Sunday 7th April 2013
quotequote all
mine would crunch a bit like this, in my case was worn selector bushes.

When the gear is selected, keep pushing on the lever (while moving, clutch not down). If it's crunching then I'd change the bushes. These are done without dropping the box, they're just a set of rubber bushes in the remote gearchange extension.

honestjohntoo

576 posts

246 months

Sunday 7th April 2013
quotequote all
I urge you to read back thro' this thread and take the advice of matt-man and adam quantrill to change the remote selector assembly mounting bushes I believe there are four of them, not very clear on this diagram



and then switch your LT77 lube to MOBIL ONE or CASTROL RS

Full scary details here:

http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...

None of the above requires the gearbox or engine to be removed from the car. smile

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Sunday 7th April 2013
quotequote all
I will try all of the above when i get the car back on the road cheers lads great info once again!!

Dix

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Monday 8th April 2013
quotequote all
Can anyone tell me the grade the gearbox oil either on mobil 1 or castrol rs.

Dix

honestjohntoo

576 posts

246 months

Monday 8th April 2013
quotequote all
dixiebabes said:
Can anyone tell me the grade the gearbox oil either on mobil 1 or castrol rs.
If you re-read my referenced web page you would see this extract

"The box was then refilled with 5W40 "Castrol RS" (0W40 "Mobil 1" is virtually
the same and I have subsequently used both with no discernable difference)"

on page 4 of the pdf - It's not gearbox oil, BTW, just their fully synthetic engine oil, straight from the can.

Search back thro the forum for oodles of prior discussions on the same subject.

Dont forget the molyslip, either!

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

254 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
quotequote all
Ok HonestJohn I have been on to my local motorfactors and they asked what grade oil and what is the correct spec I require? So i (as a clueless idiot) said ill ask him and ask what was the right soloution. By the way Moly must mean molyslip like it used to?

Dix

GV

2,366 posts

254 months

Tuesday 9th April 2013
quotequote all
I had my box re-built and found that it was a bit crunchy. They recomended using AT Fluid then I switched to Mobil 1 & Molyslip which improved things greatly. My box is still newish and hasn't settled in fully. But I would not rule out bleeding the clutch again, looking at the remote bushes before getting drastic by taking out the engine & box which

I have managed to do on my own! My technique for taking out the both units together is to slide the engine crane under the front wheel and not over the car's front...