Headlight bulbs?
Discussion
Db,
I think brighter bulbs are worth it but only if you get the right ones. Halrauds brighter bulbs aren't.
I'd recommend Philips X Treme followed by Osram Nightbreakers. Both an improvement over standard bulbs but from previous experience, the Philips will last longer. I normally get 2 years out of the Philips but only about a year from the Osrams in my daily cars.
These types of bulbs will not last as long as regular bulbs but I think it's a price worth paying.
If you can hang on a couple of days amazon normally have some great prices on the Osrams.
Good luck.
I think brighter bulbs are worth it but only if you get the right ones. Halrauds brighter bulbs aren't.
I'd recommend Philips X Treme followed by Osram Nightbreakers. Both an improvement over standard bulbs but from previous experience, the Philips will last longer. I normally get 2 years out of the Philips but only about a year from the Osrams in my daily cars.
These types of bulbs will not last as long as regular bulbs but I think it's a price worth paying.
If you can hang on a couple of days amazon normally have some great prices on the Osrams.
Good luck.
QBee said:
I stuck the Osrams in mine - about £12 a pair off Amazon, came next day, H4s, standard wattage, so no risk of overheating the wiring. I can now actually see where I am going at night, so haven't modified the car (further) on bollards, potholes etc
You missed the point Mr Mod. 
TVR fitted 80/100sJust that most people didn't know it, changed their own lamps for the 'standard' 55w, and most cars are running around blind with owners thinking they need a headlamp upgrade.
Ahh, the joys of pure originality
Chilliman said:
Probably too late, but I've got these below. Now for the 'stating the obvious bit', if the reflectors are knackered super extra fandabidozi bulbs won't make a huge difference
If they are as knackered as they owner they certainly won't 
...talking about myself of course....
A900ss said:
I am just the newbie (which means I'm probably wrong) but the bible says headlight bulbs should be 60/55W and my owners handbook sys they should be 55/65W.
Although I have read about the 100/80W bing fitted before.
Anyway, you got our bulbs, that's the main thing.
You are absolutely right.Although I have read about the 100/80W bing fitted before.
Anyway, you got our bulbs, that's the main thing.
That's what the books (including the handbook) say.
It seems that it isn't what they did.
TVR dealers always fitted 100/80 for me (without my asking, or even really knowing).
When I had a local garage do some simple repairs prior to doing an MOT, I said to get the lamps from TVR and don't argue about the price or the spec.
He ignored me and the first night I drove it, I thought I'd gone blind.
Of course, I can't speak with absolute authority for all production years, but my 97/98 has run 100/80w since new, 100k miles and never blown the fuse (at least not that fuse) that I can remember.
Goaty Bill said:
Of course, I can't speak with absolute authority for all production years, but my 97/98 has run 100/80w since new, 100k miles and never blown the fuse (at least not that fuse) that I can remember.
ah but did TVR fit them, or did the selling dealership simply upgrade all new cars after realising how sh*ite the headlights were ?if your selling £30k + cars whats an extra £10
I suppose the next question is....
What's best? A Philips Xtreme headlight OR a 100/80W bulb that will put a little more stress on the wiring (but I assume the wiring can carry the necessary juice).
I remember upgrading my bulbs in a Chevette I had in the 80’s. I put in 100W bulbs and the wiring melted the first night I had them on....
What's best? A Philips Xtreme headlight OR a 100/80W bulb that will put a little more stress on the wiring (but I assume the wiring can carry the necessary juice).
I remember upgrading my bulbs in a Chevette I had in the 80’s. I put in 100W bulbs and the wiring melted the first night I had them on....
Up to you. I found the 55/65 Osrams a whole host better than the crap that was in there. My reflectors are reasonable (yes, I did check). Before - couldn't see nuffink. After - every bump.
By the way, they are reasonably easy to fit on a later car with the inspection panels. 10 minutes per side, including removing and replacing the front wheels.
By the way, they are reasonably easy to fit on a later car with the inspection panels. 10 minutes per side, including removing and replacing the front wheels.
Of course this then begs the question - what are 100/80's like in Lupo headlights?
(Halfwits also do a 130/90 too...)
I've been toying with the idea of making up some inline relay boxes that simply plug into the existing headlight feeds from the loom and take a permanent 12v feed and provide local switching of power to the bulbs so that you're not running high currents across the TVR loom...
A bit like these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrysler-Valiant-Regal-C...
(Halfwits also do a 130/90 too...)
I've been toying with the idea of making up some inline relay boxes that simply plug into the existing headlight feeds from the loom and take a permanent 12v feed and provide local switching of power to the bulbs so that you're not running high currents across the TVR loom...
A bit like these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrysler-Valiant-Regal-C...
Edited by Bassfiend229hp on Sunday 7th April 07:33
BountyHunter said:
ah but did TVR fit them, or did the selling dealership simply upgrade all new cars after realising how sh*ite the headlights were ?
if your selling £30k + cars whats an extra £10
It's a fair point.if your selling £30k + cars whats an extra £10
The same thought had occurred to me when this discussion came up last time, but years ago all I could get from the 3 dealers I most often used were the 80/100s, and I suppose the assumption has stuck with me.
"Assumption is the mother of all f
kups" as they say, but the higher wattage lamps have never caused a problem for me, as I said above.Its not simply a case of "stressing" the TVR wiring with 100 watt bulbs- its the voltage drop that goes with it is the real issue-. Lets say for an example you have .2 ohm resistance in the wiring loom- at 60 watts that will drop 1 volt, where as 100 watts will drop 1.7 volts by the time it reaches the bulb so you end up with say 10.3 volts only. To get the absolute maximum brightness you need to rewire with decent cable directly from the back of the Alternator to relays near the headlights to keep the wiring lengths short from the voltage source- you can have up to 14.2 volts available then, and 60w bulbs will give plenty of light.
Goaty Bill said:
Bassfiend229hp said:
Of course this then begs the question - what are 100/80's like in Lupo headlights?
...
About as horrifically fugly as lupos are with 55w lamps I should think. ...
Phil
blitzracing said:
Its not simply a case of "stressing" the TVR wiring with 100 watt bulbs- its the voltage drop that goes with it is the real issue-. Lets say for an example you have .2 ohm resistance in the wiring loom- at 60 watts that will drop 1 volt, where as 100 watts will drop 1.7 volts by the time it reaches the bulb so you end up with say 10.3 volts only. To get the absolute maximum brightness you need to rewire with decent cable directly from the back of the Alternator to relays near the headlights to keep the wiring lengths short from the voltage source- you can have up to 14.2 volts available then, and 60w bulbs will give plenty of light.
...as I said earlier. Bassfiend229hp said:
I've been toying with the idea of making up some inline relay boxes that simply plug into the existing headlight feeds from the loom and take a permanent 12v feed and provide local switching of power to the bulbs so that you're not running high currents across the TVR loom...
A bit like these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrysler-Valiant-Regal-C...
...now, the main and dipped filaments are never used at the same time are they?A bit like these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrysler-Valiant-Regal-C...
According to my wire sizer app you should be able to draw up to 15amps (which should be more than enough for the current draw of any possible headlight bulb - even the 130/90's) over 2m (which should be enough to get from the back of the alternator to the headlights) over 4.0sq/mm cable. Just looking for H4 fittings that aren't pre-wired now and will take 4sqmm / 10AWG cable...
Edited by Bassfiend229hp on Sunday 7th April 12:14
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